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rb20 are more reliable..and fuel injection is nice...

If comparing to L28... reliable? maybe... EFI is nice.

 

But the rb20 I think of as weak sauce. For all the weight it adds, not a whole lot of power. I just think there are other more powerful motors that weigh less, and are easier to attain.

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ppk bashes on every motor and car...smh

rb20 can be found for cheap. especially with all the drifter kids around plus they look right at home in the z.

 

I have to agree with PPK swapping motors is cool but the L series can't be beat for reliability, oh no my L28 blew, a weekend and a junkyard find and your back in business, easy to source parts no swap laws to worry about and can make lots of power turboed. Rb20 is cool but a bit harder to source parts and you just can't find one in a pinch plus your loosing .8 liters no replacement for displacement ya know, if I were to swap to a modern straight six I would go 1jz or a NA cammed 2jz with ITB's mmm sweet sounds of 3 liter goodness but ultimately it is Comic's car and he can do whatever the hell he wants to it.

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RB20's can be reliable. It just depends on how they're maintained, and whether they're left stock.

 

I plan on leaving it completely bone stock, maintaining it well, and not driving the shit out of it (much).

 

Now, I would never put an RB in a track car. I've seen that done, and while they can be bad ass motors, they're just too much of a pain. The most reliable of engines will blow up after being put through what a drift car is put through, and they're simply a pain to source parts for.

 

However, I've seen stock RB20's last up to four or five years before needing rebuilds, and doing duties as a daily, I think it'll be alright.

 

Of course, if I come across an L31 longblock, I might be tempted to do that instead. A guy here in OKC has a NA high comp L32 that simply screams.

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Sooo...... you want to have a reliable DD motor..... so you're taking the L28 out and putting an RB20 in.............?

 

404 Logic not found

 

 

L28 is reliable no matter what, even if it isn't maintained. I went 9 months before I changed my oil (leaks, so I just kept adding, didn't change the filter, though until I changed the oil haha) and I'm still rocking 2 year old spark plugs (cheap NGK's), didn't lash the valves for two years as well, and beat the shit out of my car damn near every day. bottom end has 261k miles, no rod knock at all.

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+1 For SR, but it's all about budget. I'm too "Clean" focused to have even thought about the engine till I got the car shaved up and painted, but if you want to do a swap, I'm sure you can try it on the cheap, but lots of little things add up.

 

jelen, dibs to you if I change my diamonds out. They weigh way, way too much for me.

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RB's are for the cool factor (unless you really build it, then its tbe oshitthatshellafastfactor) in my eyes because by the time you calculate parts,shipping, and waiting over weighs anything thats available in the u.s like an sr,ka, or jz swap hell even a vh or vk swap. If you gonna go RB do a 2.5 little bit more expensive but better than a 2.0.

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so whats the stock ratings on an rb20 anyways? i figure the inline six inherently gets a pretty good torque curve... what about an rb25 for more displacement?

 

single cam = 150hp, 133ft-lbs

 

Double cam = 155hp, 137ft-lbs

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