wayno Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Yes there is, it's called a drill, then a hack saw, but first you have to cut the lower control arm out of there without ruining anything but that bolt. Try this, take the nut off, remove the washer, put the nut back on till it is just short of being screwed onto the end of the bolt, then get a piece of long rebar( mine is 3 feet long) with a sort of flat tapered end on it that will fit in the end of the nut that is just short of being screwed all the way on the end of the bolt, this holds the re-bar in position, and since the nut is not on all the way, the bolt has room to move, and the nut keeps the end of the bolt from flaring, then while the re-bar is in the end of that nut, wail on the other end of the re-bar with a sledge hammer, this doesn't always work, but it's worth the try if it does. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 yeah i have a feeling the bolt is stuck for good.. time to get the torch and just melt the thing out and chisel the rest.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 well here i am wasting time again before canby... havent touched the truck for a few weeks now.. doesnt feel like its been that long. being sick doesnt help either. gonna get out tomorrow and get that lower control arm out and see if i gotta get new bushings or not.. i figure i might as well just get a new set since im this far in. more to come! 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 got some updates. hung the HB lower and the spindle on the truck.. looks right at home. its only hangin by the upper tho.. the lower has the bolt runnin through it to the frame. just mock up. went to the junkyard to hunt down a master cylinder for the brake swap. came down to the ford explorer unit that fit the bill. its the same as this one here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1995-Ford-Explorer-2WD/_/N-j57ceZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=305047_429915_0_6891%2C21896 has a 1.06 in bore, metric ports, prop valve built in and its for disk/drums. i think it will work pretty well. time will tell, i guess... :lol: so thats whats going on for now.. i still need to get the pass. lower control arm out, and see if i can salvage the bushing. oh, i did start on one upper control arm yesterday too. found a guy on DMT that built a set of arms using half 620 king pin arms and the end of a balljoint arm. ive started the same thing, but im finding it might be easier to just cut some plates with the balljoint pattern and skip using stock end of an upper. more to come! 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I love this build you're like a mad scientist question..... I could've missed it BUT why this choice of MC's? why not they tried & true Z car/nissan option? went to the junkyard to hunt down a master cylinder for the brake swap. came down to the ford explorer unit that fit the bill. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I love this build you're like a mad scientist question..... I could've missed it BUT why this choice of MC's? why not they tried & true Z car/nissan option? kinda just moving away from the norm. im getting rid of the booster and doing manual brakes. there really isnt a cheap, readily available 1in bore nissan master cylinder. i was planning on using a old sytle GM master, but i found the ford unit. ive had manual brakes in the past and i kinda prefer them, at least in a little rig like this. that and the 1in bore will allow me to go for bigger calipers later on too. i wanted to get a set of pathfinder/v6HB 2 piston calipers :) it should work for what i need, but we'll see. :lol: Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 right on. I thought that might be the idea but wasn't sure. I'm sure the 1" MC will work JUST FINE with the D21 brakes. I did the twin piston swap on both of my 620's & kept the 13/16" MC, a bit of a low pedal but they work perfectly. Can't justify the money right now but I'm thinking that a 7/8" MC will bring it back to a "stock" feel. kinda just moving away from the norm. im getting rid of the booster and doing manual brakes. there really isnt a cheap, readily available 1in bore nissan master cylinder. i was planning on using a old sytle GM master, but i found the ford unit. ive had manual brakes in the past and i kinda prefer them, at least in a little rig like this. that and the 1in bore will allow me to go for bigger calipers later on too. i wanted to get a set of pathfinder/v6HB 2 piston calipers :) it should work for what i need, but we'll see. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 thats good to know about the dual pistons working with the 13/16ths master.. last truck i had with disk brakes was my LUV 6 years ago, so im a little out of touch on what works and doesnt work anymore.. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 so i sent the wife to get some shop lights while im at work today.. gonna hook those up tonight and see if i cant get a little bit done. might get all the stuff off the firewall at least. more to come.. might even have light enough to take pics Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 lights are in.. its bright out there. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 jason gave me an idea for the master cylinder mount on the firewall. the stock booster mount has enough meat on it to bolt the ford master cylinder to. ill cut out a plate that will fit between the master and the booster mount. should cover the part of the hole the master cylinder doesnt cover, and will keep the master real solid on the booster pedestal. keepin it simple. pics... from here, i can start figuring out the plunger rod and the brake line routing.. woot! 1 Quote Link to comment
sedition88 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Damn, should be able to see really good in there now 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 oh yeah! its quite good now.. i really need to get shit done now. no more complaining i guess :lol: Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 okie dokie! jason came over last night to hang out when i put the lights up... today he got the lower control arm off the passenger side while i was at work.. i guess the LCA was binding the bolt. so he cut one side of the control arm off, and it came out.. yay! soooo, we started on the jig for the uppers, and got pretty far... pretty basic jig from what you can see there... heres what we turned out... i know its not pretty, but its not done all the way either. i have a lot more gusset work to do on it.. buuuut, for the mockup, it seems to be on the money. thats where we ended for tonight.. im glad to have made any headway! lol... gonna start on the other arm here soon after i get the first one kinda figured out some more... all the big building blocks are starting to fall together.. the suspension, the brakes.. im gonna have this well before canby.. more to come! 2 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 okie dokie! got the uppers done today. first one isnt so pretty, but the 2nd turned out lookin okay. heres some pics of one mounted up all the way... the lower control arms still need some cutting to clearance being so low. and a little corner on the back side touches the engine crossmember bolt. nothin to extensive. and then, i drilled the couple holes in the stock booster mount to bolt the master cylinder to. got some pics of it mocked up. i still need to cut that piece of metal out to go between the master and the mount. thats all for this day off.. i gotta work a 10 tomorrow, but i think im gonna start workin on the brake plunger rod after work. big part done today tho.. stoked the arms are done! more to come... 3 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 aaaand we're back! got off work early, and got to work on the truck. stopped by the junkyard and raided the brake liness from the explorer i got the master cylinder from. it had a bigger thread than the other port. its also bubble flared, so ill use the first section of that line, and cut and reflare with a datsun inverted taper on the other end.. some pics of the lines... got home and built the push rod for for the brakes. im happy to say its made of all nissan parts. the stock clevis, a hardbody aircleaner stud from the throttle body i have and the metal insert from an old upper control arm bushing for the sleeve.. hahaha i got the plate that goes on the BMC mount, but didnt take any pics of it. its not done yet either.. gotta get a hole saw and pop the hole in it in the middle for the master to go through.. snapped one of the passenger side upper bolted on.. got the brake lines out of the engine bay for now.. have the master mounted up for show... i also got a few things over by the intake organized like the heater heater hose and the fuel lines. ive got tomorrow off and the wife has to work, so im gonna work on truck some more.. fernando hopefully is going to bring a hole saw so i can get the little brake plate done. i need a brake flare tool/kit too. we'll see if anything else turns out tomorrow.. i might go by the metal recycling place to see if they have anything i could use for the back setup.. again, we'll see.. more to come.... 4 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 DAMN MAN, looking good.... all of it ...... & those A-arms are badass. Great job. 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 thanks man! im happy with the way the arms turned out.. ive got building them down now, so i might sell a few if theres interest. takes like an hour to build a set if i have all the parts now.. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Does that reservoir cap sit level? Might have a hard time keeping it full. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 it doesnt sit level per se, but level enough to keep both ports covered at all times. the reservoir has baffles in it that keep the fluid in certain areas it looks like... if this one dont work too well, ill pop it off and get a res from a ranger or something.. i got your mounts today stephen. fuckin gnarly! 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah they are Heavy Duty now :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 didnt get anything done yesterday... went grocery shopping and took a nap. kinda at a standstill till payday.. we'll see how much cash is left over after bills and whatnot. i think im gonna get the tension rod mounts made next. i need the washers to go on the lower control arm bolt to take up the space in the HB arm. after i have those, i can tighten up the lower arm and get the mount built. more to come.. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 you prob covered it & I'm missing it ... but.... I noticed you removed the bottom shock mount on the LCA .... what do you have up your sleeve :) Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 you prob covered it & I'm missing it ... but.... I noticed you removed the bottom shock mount on the LCA .... what do you have up your sleeve :) ive gotta move it outward a bit. with how low it is, and with the raised shock towers its changed the geometry a bit on the way the shock hangs out. i need to get another pair of shocks and see when i need to place the mounts. im trying to leave room in there for the sway bar, so we'll see.. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 okay kiddies! update time.. front suspension is technically done. i have the uppers built, the lowers are bolted in for the last time. made the mounts for the new tension rod locations. oics... shot from the bottom.. im gonna hack off the old tension rod mounts one of these days... this was the spacer situation on the lower. it needed 1 spacer in the back, and 3 in the front. wrapped it up with tossing a wheel on it to see where it would be when i set it down. mind you, i havnt rolled the front tin anymore yet. it has 1.25in of extra track width. farther out.. from the back... gotta get the torsion bars set up again after i took em out.. should be able to set it down after that. i still need to get the brakes done though, so it might be a bit before it hits the ground.. more to come!! 2 Quote Link to comment
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