starting for the first time...

[Stupid_fast]

Hey all, my engine is nearly ready to start up. Everything is plugged in, ect.

 

I just want to make sure I know everything I have to do to start a REBUILT engine, the p/o of my car bought it rebuild before he sold it to me!

 

I have read a bit about priming the oil pump.. whats the best way to do this, ect? I'm running 30w valvoline oil.

 

Going to use this method for braking in the engine,

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Is there anything else I should do before starting it?

 

 

Any tips or suggestions would be great, thanks!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Is the oil pump filled up or not?

 

if not put motor back to TDC and drop the pump back out and fill it up with oil.

part 3 or 4

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58

[Shagy]

besides priming the pump, I usually crank the motor over a few times with the ignition disabled so it wont start. I'll do this a few times untill the oil light shuts off. Then hook the ignition back up and fire her up.

 

You may want to unplug the fuel line also, so you dont flood it and wash the cylinders.

[Skib]

dont use synthetic on the break in

 

and make sure to change the oil and filter after the initial brake in

[Stupid_fast]

Is the oil pump filled up or not?

 

if not put motor back to TDC and drop the pump back out and fill it up with oil.

part 3 or 4

http://www.youtube.c...EF51386855F2B58

Well, the engine was rebuilt/empty when I got it. I will empty the oil back out, pull the pump and fill it up.I already set the engine to TDC, and timed the distributor correctly to match. Same way you did it in your videos!

Timed the distributor here, engine TDC... cyl #1 firing

besides priming the pump, I usually crank the motor over a few times with the ignition disabled so it wont start. I'll do this a few times untill the oil light shuts off. Then hook the ignition back up and fire her up.

 

You may want to unplug the fuel line also, so you dont flood it and wash the cylinders.

 

I have an oil pressure gauge, and the car has no fuel in it.

 

dont use synthetic on the break in

 

and make sure to change the oil and filter after the initial brake in

Using valvoline vr-1 30w racing oil, non-synthetic.

 

And yes, I'm going to take it out for a 20-mile drive and then change the oil.

[wayno]

I filled the oil pump, put it back in, and started it up, took a few seconds to fill the filter and have the light go out, but it was fine. Mine was rebuilt less than a month before I started it, so none of the break-in lube had gotten dry, yours sounds like it has sat for a while, maybe turn it over without the plugs till the oil pressure builds up enough to make the light go out. Is this a bad thing to do guys? Sealik suggested that I might make something like this to prime the oil pump and engine.

[Stupid_fast]

I filled the oil pump, put it back in, and started it up, took a few seconds to fill the filter and have the light go out, but it was fine. Mine was rebuilt less than a month before I started it, so none of the break-in lube had gotten dry, yours sounds like it has sat for a while, maybe turn it over without the plugs till the oil pressure builds up enough to make the light go out. Is this a bad thing to do guys? Sealik suggested that I might make something like this to prime the oil pump and engine.

 

 

Alright, I'll fill up the pump, remove the spark plug wires and leave the fuel out, turn it over a few times, wait for oil pressure to build, replace plug wires, fill up with fuel and warm up for break-in?

 

Sounds good... I guess its a good thing I didn't try to start it yesterday.

[wayno]

Alright, I'll fill up the pump, remove the spark plug wires and leave the fuel out, turn it over a few times, wait for oil pressure to build, replace plug wires, fill up with fuel and warm up for break-in?

 

Sounds good... I guess its a good thing I didn't try to start it yesterday.

 

It is not good to get the starter hot, it can ruin the armature, how long do you think it has sat since rebuilt? I think the most important thing is to fill/prime the oil pump, I did it by taking the oil pump out(engine at TDC), and filling it, i just poured oil into it from a quart of oil and turned the shaft till I had oil at both openings to the top, you could also just submerge the pump in oil and turn the shaft also, but it's a little messier.

[420n620]

like to add before you prime the engine is to pour oil over the cam lobes, a few squirts of oil in the cylinders also.

While cranking the engine to prime, watch for oil to come out of the oiling holes on the cam lobes, ALL of them.

 

once you have got the engine running, you will need to break in the cam, do NOT do this at idle. You will need to run the engine at 1,000 to 1,200 RPM for about 10 to 15 minutes.

if you don't break in the cam, you will flaten the lobes and be back at square 1.

 

Then when you get ready to take it out for a drive, you will need to get it up to about 55 or 65 mph then back off the throttle until you are going about 45 mph then back up to 55/65 then back off until 45 mph and do it again and again and again for about 5 to 8 miles. This will help the rings get seated.

Hope this help you. Good luck

[Sealik]

I filled the oil pump, put it back in, and started it up, took a few seconds to fill the filter and have the light go out, but it was fine. Mine was rebuilt less than a month before I started it, so none of the break-in lube had gotten dry, yours sounds like it has sat for a while, maybe turn it over without the plugs till the oil pressure builds up enough to make the light go out. Is this a bad thing to do guys? Sealik suggested that I might make something like this to prime the oil pump and engine.

 

I was 'impressed' on how much torque it took to spin over the pump full of oil...through the galleries.

 

This is just after I spun the pump.....somewhat see the oil dripping from cam...etc.

 

 

Don't use the choke....keep the idle above 1100.

Always vary speed and RPM on the highway....gear down to slow the vehicle.

I changed my oil and filter at 50, 200 and 500 miles.

 

If possible, take a compression test.....before and during break in...

Will let you know immediately if some thing is amuk.

Check plugs........

[Stupid_fast]

It is not good to get the starter hot, it can ruin the armature, how long do you think it has sat since rebuilt? I think the most important thing is to fill/prime the oil pump, I did it by taking the oil pump out(engine at TDC), and filling it, i just poured oil into it from a quart of oil and turned the shaft till I had oil at both openings to the top, you could also just submerge the pump in oil and turn the shaft also, but it's a little messier.

Engine was sitting maybe... 2 years? I dunno, its been sitting around a year since I got it. It turns smooth and easily with a wrench without oil, since I turned it to set to TDC for timing the dizzy.The starter is new, I was saying maybe turn it over for a few seconds at a time to get oil pressure up. most of the accessories where added on by me(dizzy, starter, alt, ect)

like to add before you prime the engine is to pour oil over the cam lobes, a few squirts of oil in the cylinders also.

While cranking the engine to prime, watch for oil to come out of the oiling holes on the cam lobes, ALL of them.

 

once you have got the engine running, you will need to break in the cam, do NOT do this at idle. You will need to run the engine at 1,000 to 1,200 RPM for about 10 to 15 minutes.

if you don't break in the cam, you will flaten the lobes and be back at square 1.

 

Then when you get ready to take it out for a drive, you will need to get it up to about 55 or 65 mph then back off the throttle until you are going about 45 mph then back up to 55/65 then back off until 45 mph and do it again and again and again for about 5 to 8 miles. This will help the rings get seated.

Hope this help you. Good luck

 

 

Is the cam new? How can I tell? I thought idling a rebuild is bad for the ring sealing? So I just leave it for a 10-minute 1000-1200rpm warm-up?

 

I already linked to that tech article about breaking in... Am gonna follow that break in method. I'm probably going to end up taking it on a good back road for lots of pulling/engine braking, ect. Its probably the best place to do it in my area.(freeways are always crowded...)

 

I was 'impressed' on how much torque it took to spin over the pump full of oil...through the galleries.

 

This is just after I spun the pump.....somewhat see the oil dripping from cam...etc.

 

Don't use the choke....keep the idle above 1100.

Always vary speed and RPM on the highway....gear down to slow the vehicle.

I changed my oil and filter at 50, 200 and 500 miles.

 

If possible, take a compression test.....before and during break in...

Will let you know immediately if some thing is amuk.

Check plugs........

I don't really have any way to check compression...

 

The choke is electric ... still have to wire it.

[Sealik]

Should invest in one......compression tester that is.

Not that expensive....

Will tell you when and if the rings have seated.

Your readings 'will' start out low....then start to climb

[420n620]

I assumed you was starting a rebuilt engine by the title. :lol:

since the engine has been sitting for awhile, I would still put oil over the cam/rockers and down the the cylinders before trying to prime the engine just to be safe.

 

as for the cam, if you didn't put in a new one, I assume it is a used cam. Don't worry about breaking it in. ;)

[Stupid_fast]

I did not rebuild the engine!! I bought it this way from the p/o of my car, he bought it rebuilt before he gave it to me.

[420n620]

if it's a new cam then make sure to break it in. u got a pic to show. Lets see if it is.

[Sealik]

if it's a new cam then make sure to break it in. u got a pic to show. Lets see if it is.

 

 

Correct.

Pics......????..... :D

[Stupid_fast]

Should invest in one......compression tester that is.

Not that expensive....

Will tell you when and if the rings have seated.

Your readings 'will' start out low....then start to climb

I will buy one next time I get the money...

if it's a new cam then make sure to break it in. u got a pic to show. Lets see if it is.

Correct.

Pics......????..... :D

 

I always have pics... Ratsun has trained me well. It looks used?!(can see the wear lines on the cam lobes) I took that when I was timing the dizzy. I (stupidly) filled up the oil, so right now I'm draining it out and priming the oil pump.

 

I have to wait a few days for the fusible links to come in, and get a new alternator or rebuild my rebuild one so I have time to do the rest of this stuff.

 

Thanks for all the great help.

 

 

 

And uh, what connects here? My Datsun knew it was not hooked up properly so it shorted its own alternator... my god.... ITS ALIVE

 

[Sealik]

I will buy one next time I get the money...

 

 

I always have pics... Ratsun has trained me well. It looks used?!(can see the wear lines on the cam lobes) I took that when I was timing the dizzy. I (stupidly) filled up the oil, so right now I'm draining it out and priming the oil pump.

 

I have to wait a few days for the fusible links to come in, and get a new alternator or rebuild my rebuild one so I have time to do the rest of this stuff.

 

Thanks for all the great help.

 

Ya......lobes look.............well.....used

Don't have to drain all the oil..half a liter if that, to fill the pump and pour over the top end

I would leave the oil....pull the pump...remove the spindle....install pump and prime galleries with a drill....

See what happens...oil circulation wise.

But then again.....that's me.... :D

[Stupid_fast]

Ya......lobes look.............well.....used

Don't have to drain all the oil..half a liter if that, to fill the pump and pour over the top end

I would leave the oil....pull the pump...remove the spindle....install pump and prime galleries with a drill....

See what happens...oil circulation wise.

But then again.....that's me.... :D

 

OK, sounds good. I will probably replace the cam with a more "hopped-up" one later down the road, for now a used one is great for breaking in the engine.

 

Now to see how I'm going to attach my drill to the oil pump.. You sure I don't need to drain the oil? I'm going to drain most of it just to be safe. I don't like having an oil slick on my garage floor.

 

Thanks.. at least I have something to do tonight!

[Sealik]

OK, sounds good. I will probably replace the cam with a more "hopped-up" one later down the road, for now a used one is great for breaking in the engine.

 

Now to see how I'm going to attach my drill to the oil pump.. You sure I don't need to drain the oil? I'm going to drain most of it just to be safe. I don't like having an oil slick on my garage floor.

 

Thanks.. at least I have something to do tonight!

 

Unless the pump has been primed and or the motor has ran prior....there will be no oil in the pump.

No need to drain oil.....no puddle on floor...no worries...... :D

 

If there is oil in the pump.....you will lose a bit on removal....nothing major

[Sealik]

And uh, what connects here? My Datsun knew it was not hooked up properly so it shorted its own alternator... my god.... ITS ALIVE

 

 

Coolant line.....not needed....sort of.

Mine was disconnected after I saw 'water' running down the underside of the IM/gasket..... :blink:

 

If this is eliminated.....I would run the bypass hose from the thermostat housing to the drivers side TC cover

 

The hose hanging down....was removed from the IM

 

[wayno]

I beleave that connects to water, but I could be wrong as I run dual side drafts(SU type) on all my L20bs anymore.

[Sealik]

Had the same queries a while back....

 

.

 

Byron...510Realm

 

..."The coolant line into the intake really is an emissions deal. Secondly, without the holes in the head, the coolant can't flow anywhere, so it's two water connections that are redundant and become a liability in a way. I think I'd omit the hose into the intake manifold.

 

On water circulation...

Make sure you have a thermostat with the little bypass hole - usually has a brass dingleball in it as well. This bypass is necessary, especially if you have omitted (or your application does not have) the water line which runs from the rad inlet on the side of the timing cover to the thermostat housing. If you have this line, then no worries. If your thermostat doesn't have a bypass hole, you'll need to drill a small 1/8" hole for water to continually bypass. If the hole isn’t there, the water cannot flow until the thermostat heat up - problem here is that the water in the back of the head can be over 210 deg C when the thermostat is still 160 (and not open). You can imaging the stress this puts on the head. Once things are warmed up this issue levels out. However the bypass will help curb this issue".....

 

Of course.... this info might not be of consequence if you already have the holes in your head.... :D

[Stupid_fast]

Ah, my head does NOT have those holes. So for the bypass - it is plugged off on my engine.

 

 

So I just drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat? Sounds easy.

[Sealik]

Ah, my head does NOT have those holes. So for the bypass - it is plugged off on my engine.

 

 

So I just drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat? Sounds easy.

 

The (new) thermostat should already have the hole...jigger valve

When installed...the valve should be placed farthest away from engine....towards the drivers side.

The highest point ....to prevent.....possible air/

"coolant blockage"