.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Just for referrence Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 So I cant drive it until I do that? Here's the thing. The valve has to have some clearance or the cam will hold the valve open slightly and it will leak. Exhaust leaking out will cut power but worse it will erode a path or 'burn' the valve. No use risking this when they are easy to check and adjust. 1 Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 if you hear a fast metallic pinging, shut it down, or head straight home. I know what you're feeling right now, I was sooooo excited to drive mine after all that work. Have your fun safely, it stops okay right? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 mikes right...... Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Well when it was just running it sounded fine except for being rediculusly loud(header haning off block) and not idling ... meh I'll go get some feeler gauges :( I've been working on this damn thing for a year. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I bought the spectre also, and you should check the tightness of the inner filter. I didn't and mine backed off and blocked the fuel inlet holes, and left me stranded an hour from home in the dark until I found the problem. I'm not saying that's your problem now, but in a hundred or so miles, it may be coming, and that would let that varnish your gas will soak up right through your pump to your carb. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK... gonna double check timing, carb settings, ect get it to run for a few min to warm up, set valve lash then take it for a spin? I just got mah feeler gauges. Sounds good... gonna see if I can get this done today. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 good luck man, make sure it's charging and stops before you go :) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 good luck man, make sure it's charging and stops before you go :) brakes front and rear are pretty much all NEW, alternator has just been wired in.. CHG light went out when I got it started before. Thanks for all the awesome info, I will adjust everything and get it working properly. And I'm going to run the bitch hard!! I cant tell you how many times I've read this! http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'll check back for an update :) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow, I checking it cold and the valve lash is WAY too tight... datzenmike... *bows* Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Eyup, you drive it when it's hot though, that's all that matters :) Why'd you pull the valve cover again? Did you test drive it yet? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Yeah dude, I figured since I've never done it before I'd set valve lash to cold spec for practice so I can do it quicker when its warmed up. And I took a break for coffee and snack. I treid to start it again and it almost idled this time, it sounds and runs really rough almost like a motorcycle. What could I be doing wrong? It runs OK, farely smooth ... maybe more fiddling with the idle. Could that be ignition timing?! Oil pressure is good, ~65psi @ 1000rpm Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 To speed up the process, set the motor to TDC Compression stroke on #1. Confirm that both valves are closed on #1. Set the valve lash on: Int. and Ex. on #1 Int. #2 Ex. #3 Turn motor ONE complete turn and set the lash on: Ex. #2 Int. #3 Int. and Ex. #4............. Done. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 To speed up the process, set the motor to TDC Compression stroke on #1. Confirm that both valves are closed on #1. Set the valve lash on: Int. and Ex. on #1 Int. #2 Ex. #3 Turn motor ONE complete turn and set the lash on: Ex. #2 Int. #3 Int. and Ex. #4............. Done. Awesome, sounds good. Now about getting it to idle long enough to warm it up... its REALLY rough, I'm sure Its something small and stupid I'm doing wrong. Thanks for the help. I can get it to start maybe for a few seconds with foot on throttle, when I take my foot off it will try to idle, fire 3-4 times then backfire and die... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 idle speed? idle mistuxe? Turn the idle speed up. Tune the mixture, turn idle speed down. And I have never set my valves hot. Everytime I have done it makes my valves worse. I only set cold. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 idle speed? idle mistuxe? Turn the idle speed up. Tune the mixture, turn idle speed down. And I have never set my valves hot. Everytime I have done it makes my valves worse. I only set cold. I messed around with the idle speed for 2 start-up tries, idled ~3 seconds w/ my foot on gas @1000rpm then took my foot off... It will at least try to idle now, but it sputters and dies. Sometimes it will backfire... Idle mixture is set in all the way, pulled out 2 turns. Tried 3 turns, didnt help. speed screw was set until touching linkage, then 1-1/4 turns more, didnt help, tried even more and didn't help. I richened up the main mixture and advanced the dizzy a bit and it ran better w/ holding throttle - but still didn't idle. Well, valves are set cold @ 25 exhaust 20 intake as said spec on olddatsuns. Should run OK, I'll check valve when its HOT and set to 30 exhaust/25 intake, then take it out for a run. Its too late today to run it, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to fix it. I got a quick video of it running then dying i'll post in in a min. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 The carb has issues, or something was not set up right. The engine top dead center, the cam lobes on #1 cly. are at 10am & 2pm, the distributer drive was at 11:30am with the fat side towards the intake, and that will put #1 spark plug wire at 4pm. Mine started without issue, but I took the carbs(SU type) off the running engine I was replacing. What is the measurement you are using for the valves, 25 thousands, 20 thousands? I hope not, it's supposed to be 10 & 12 thousands I beleave. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 The carb has issues, or something was not set up right. The engine top dead center, the cam lobes on #1 cly. are at 10am & 2pm, the distributer drive was at 11:30am with the fat side towards the intake, and that will put #1 spark plug wire at 4pm. Mine started without issue, but I took the carbs(SU type) off the running engine I was replacing. What is the measurement you are using for the valves, 25 thousands, 20 thousands? I hope not, it's supposed to be 10 & 12 thousands I beleave. I timed engine correctly, tripple checked it at TDC!!! I checked the dizzy shaft many, many times!! 11:28's all the way! I'm using an l16 distributor ... so #1 cyl is at like 9:00 ... dizzy is timed to TDC. #1 cyl is at top of compression stroke... Runs rough but OK while holding throttle down, so its an idle problem. Carburetor is NEW, never ran in anything else! http://www.davidcmur...tech/620L20.htm I talk metric!! 0.25mm, 0.20mm i meant! wow youtube completely messed up the audio.. Does this work? http://www.facebook....161102093967713 ^anyone got any ideas?! Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 I've got an idea, may the idle cutoff solenoid is not working right. AFAIK I just have to hook up 12v to it to jump it ON, but I removed and tested it this morning w/ 12v and it spectacularly did nothing. ^That facebook ,link in my last post is a video, BTW!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 carb or intake tight?????????? I notice that if the cheap cast thin carb adapters can crack if overtighten. thus not a good idle. you have the carb pretty close to right on. Most times you dont need 1 1/4 turns on the speed screw. I have about half to not even touching Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 I've got an idea, may the idle cutoff solenoid is not working right. AFAIK I just have to hook up 12v to it to jump it ON, but I removed and tested it this morning w/ 12v and it spectacularly did nothing. ^That facebook ,link in my last post is a video, BTW!! I was going to ask if you had a IC solenoid... Anywho.....New?......does it click when 12 volts is hooked to it....? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 make sure its not plugged with rust(highly unlikely) 510s are cleaner Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Video unavailable............ Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 carb or intake tight?????????? I notice that if the cheap cast thin carb adapters can crack if overtighten. thus not a good idle. you have the carb pretty close to right on. Most times you dont need 1 1/4 turns on the speed screw. I have about half to not even touching Its a new good quality intake adapter, I did not tighten it down more than "snug", and used gasket sealer on the whole thing as the instructions said! Yeah after a few adjustments it ran much better holding the throttle, but no idle. make sure its not plugged with rust(highly unlikely) 510s are cleaner Its new... I have it out, its completely clean. Carb is new, everything is new! I was going to ask if you had a IC solenoid... Anywho.....New?......does it click when 12 volts is hooked to it....? Yeah, 12v going in it from IGN coil +, daisy chained with the choke. measured and verified with multimeter. Video unavailable............ Damn.. I don't have the correct conversion software to get it to upload to youtube correctly... Quote Link to comment
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