Stupid_fast Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 The (new) thermostat should already have the hole...jigger valve When installed...the valve should be placed farthest away from engine....towards the drivers side. The highest point ....to prevent.....possible "coolant blockage" Ok makes sense. Yeah, the new one has a jiggle valve! So I just pulled out the oil pump... And the damn gasket broke. :( Gotta check if anywhere local has one. I'm guessing its bad just to RTV silicon on top of broken gasket? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Ok makes sense. Yeah, the new one has a jiggle valve! So I just pulled out the oil pump... And the damn gasket broke. :( Gotta check if anywhere local has one. I'm guessing its bad just to RTV silicon on top of broken gasket? While you are waiting for the gasket...reinstall pump/less spindle are prime engine Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Anyone know where I can find just an oil pump gasket? :( I already have a top end gasket set. Maybe I'll just order a full gasket set to have the spares! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 you didnt need to drain the oil. We had done pump drops in the parking lot before. This is what I did on my last motor. I put oil in pump spin the gear to it come even on both sides but not totally over filling it.Then reset the dimple dot lined up to get the spindal lined up to the 11.28 position. then I use my oil trans pump bottle thingy and pump trans 80-90 weight thu where the oil filter was . i pump oil thru tto the front cover. install the filter. I also before I put the fuel pump totally On is pump it up till I have gas going to the carb and hear gas squirting when i cycle the linkage. I also pour oil on cam rockers and down the front chain. should start right up if timmed and valve lash set. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 I didn't drain the oil, went fine. Sounds good, awesome advice!! edit, OK just finished priming the pump/oiling system. I used a Ratsun tool to get it done! Everything looks good, poored oil onto timing chain, oil was flowing properly, ect. Now I just gotta get that gasket ordered. Thank you all for the help! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 oriley sells Felpro gaskets punch in Felpro then enter your vehicle and it should come up and have bar code numbers where you can order over internet or get from the local O rileys. you have front cover sets, head sets ,lower sets ect.... good prices also Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK Its turning over !! I can get it to start for a second at full throttle, but it seems to be missing.. running really rough... what am I doing wrong? Firing order is correct, 1-4-3-2, tripple checked, its firing, I turned dizzy ignition and it started a little better then died, tuned fuel/idle screws and started a little better, but it still wont idle @ full throttle... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK Its turning over !! I can get it to start for a second at full throttle, but it seems to be missing.. running really rough... what am I doing wrong? Firing order is correct, 1-4-3-2, tripple checked, its firing, I turned dizzy ignition and it started a little better then died, tuned fuel/idle screws and started a little better, but it still wont idle @ full throttle... Switch 4 and 3 around.... 1-3-4-2 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Switch 4 and 3 around.... 1-3-4-2 FML Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 FML Most likely run a little better........... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Naw, I checked it... that was a typo as I thought. Its correct 1-3-4-2! :( Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Switch 4 and 3 around.... 1-3-4-2 If only all problems were that easy Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 If only all problems were that easy help, please? :( Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK I can get it to run(around 10-20s until i tried to idle it), but it wont idle. .. Am i not holding on the throttle long enough for it to idle?(the choke is pretty much just OPEN) I need pointers I dun wanna screw this up.... BRB, gonna go get some earplugs LOOOL!! Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Lol, put one hand on the valve cover, and one into the air, and call to the power of the datsun gods (other than datzunmike) and listen for what it wants...... Carburetor came from l20? fuel clean (IE, coming from a clean tank, pump stock or electric? carburetor clean? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Lol, put one hand on the valve cover, and one into the air, and call to the power of the datsun gods (other than datzunmike) and listen for what it wants...... Carburetor came from l20? fuel clean (IE, coming from a clean tank, pump stock or electric? carburetor clean? rebuilt engine, new fuel pump(it ran, so theres fuel in there), NEW weber 32/36, NEW distributor(it was firing so its fine), ect ect... HELP!?!?! PLZ!??!? I WANNA DRIVE IT!!! Thannk you!! It runs if I hold the throttle on... prettty smooth when I tried maybe 10-20s, then took my foot off throttle and it died... would it idle warmed up?? should I just warm it up like this!??! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 OK I can get it to run(around 10-20s until i tried to idle it), but it wont idle. .. Am i not holding on the throttle long enough for it to idle?(the choke is pretty much just OPEN) I need pointers I dun wanna screw this up.... BRB, gonna go get some earplugs LOOOL!! Turn the idle speed screw up until it will idle. Warm engine and check/set the valve lash to hot specs. Then: Set ignition timing (12 degrees BTDC). Then: Turn idle mixture screw in /out to get the fastest smooth idle*, adjust the idle speed down, re-adjust the mixture for best smooth idle, re-adjust the idle speed down. Keep going until you can't improve the idle quality. *Turning mixture screw in will lean out the air fuel ratio and the idle will stumble. Turning out will richen the mixture and it will stumble. Once you know where they are adjust the screw about half way between then adjust the idle speed and repeat Check for oil and any water leaks. Get out there and start breaking that motor in. Keep the motor changing RPM... accelerate and decelerate over and over. Do not baby the motor. Full throttle with secondaries from 3K to 5K in 3rd is fine. Long deceleration in gear is good as it allows oil to rinse away the fine cylinder wall particles and polish the bore. Acceleration thrusts the rings against the cylinder walls and rubs off the high points on the hone marks. This forms a tight gas sealing fit between the rings and cylinder that traps pressure and reduces blow by. Babying a rebuilt motor will allow blow by to form it's own path past the rings and this cannot be corrected later. Ever wonder why some motors that are exactly like yours are faster? The other guy probably drove the shit out of it when new. For the first 500 miles do not idle excessively or maintain steady speeds. Keep the motor constantly changing speeds if at all possible, even with light throttle in town. Do not exceeds 5K and do not lug the motor at full throttle at low speeds either. You have gears use them. Change the oil and filter after the first 50 miles. In a couple of weeks and with a stone cold motor.... recheck the head bolt torque by loosening each bolt one at a time and tightening to factory spec. You do not need to follow any order when doing this. A new motor, being 'tight' may run slightly hot. As the motor breaks in and loosens up the idle may go up slightly, just adjust. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 rebuilt engine, new fuel pump(it ran, so theres fuel in there), NEW weber 32/36, NEW distributor(it was firing so its fine), ect ect... HELP!?!?! PLZ!??!? I WANNA DRIVE IT!!! Thannk you!! It runs if I hold the throttle on... prettty smooth when I tried maybe 10-20s, then took my foot off throttle and it died... would it idle warmed up?? should I just warm it up like this!??! I know it has gas, trying to see if it's the right pressure, and not soaking up varnish from being put into a dirty fuel tank. I just spun 1600 miles on my fresh l20b rebuild and have been DDing it fine and without any issue for the last couple weeks. I also went with new 32 36, but switched to electric pump, had fuel tank issues, then when I got it right, the pump turned out to be mislabeled and too high of pressure. all the while, it would start, and run like shit Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Turn the idle speed screw up until it will idle. Warm engine and check/set the valve lash to hot specs. Then: Set ignition timing (12 degrees BTDC). Then: Turn idle mixture screw in /out to get the fastest smooth idle*, adjust the idle speed down, re-adjust the mixture for best smooth idle, re-adjust the idle speed down. Keep going until you can't improve the idle quality. *Turning mixture screw in will lean out the air fuel ratio and the idle will stumble. Turning out will richen the mixture and it will stumble. Once you know where they are adjust the screw about half way between then adjust the idle speed and repeat OK I'll mess with the carb... shouldn't valve lash be OK for a rebuilt engine? I'm trying to follow the run it hard break-in, says to just warm up & go ... but then again you have more experience with datsuns!! I do not know how to set valve lash, I have no feeler gauges.. I know it has gas, trying to see if it's the right pressure, and not soaking up varnish from being put into a dirty fuel tank. I just spun 1600 miles on my fresh l20b rebuild and have been DDing it fine and without any issue for the last couple weeks. I also went with new 32 36, but switched to electric pump, had fuel tank issues, then when I got it right, the pump turned out to be mislabeled and too high of pressure. all the while, it would start, and run like shit The fuel tank had a bunch of OLD gas in it when I got the car, that keeps it clean right? I just drained that out, filled it up with premium pump gas... Maybe there's still some shit gas remaining in the system that needs to be washed out. The pump is a kyosan one ... I'm almost 100% sure its a correct datsun pump. Then again I could be wrong!! This is the first time starting this car BTW ! this chassis has been sitting for 5+ years!! Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Valve lash= very important on anything. Probably cold set now, but you need feeler gauges, and to set it the first time you can run it long enough to get it up to temperature, and that's assuming it's cold set, it should be, but assuming..... well you know what that does. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Valve lash= very important on anything. Probably cold set now, but you need feeler gauges, and to set it the first time you can run it long enough to get it up to temperature, and that's assuming it's cold set, it should be, but assuming..... well you know what that does. So I cant drive it until I do that? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 No, gas turns to varnish, like grease but thicker, I used a tank that had sat with gas for 10 years, and it had about 3/8 inch of buildup in it, this clogs filters, carb, etc, and is Very bad. you can get your tank flushed at a radiator shop, or buy a couple cans of carb bath and dump in chain or even nuts and bolts and shake it around until it's clean. I'd suggest the rad shop, but myself, I was caught up on my hand being the only ones touching my truck, and spent about the same on 2 gallons of carb bath, and it took longer, because I let it soak. A quick way to see if that's the problem is to check clean, or change the fuel filter(S) and dump the fuel line pre filter into a gas can with clean gas. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 You can drive it, but it's not recomended. you might have valves lightly tapping pistons, or just lousy performance from them not opening enough Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I meant pre pump :) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 No, gas turns to varnish, like grease but thicker, I used a tank that had sat with gas for 10 years, and it had about 3/8 inch of buildup in it, this clogs filters, carb, etc, and is Very bad. you can get your tank flushed at a radiator shop, or buy a couple cans of carb bath and dump in chain or even nuts and bolts and shake it around until it's clean. I'd suggest the rad shop, but myself, I was caught up on my hand being the only ones touching my truck, and spent about the same on 2 gallons of carb bath, and it took longer, because I let it soak. A quick way to see if that's the problem is to check clean, or change the fuel filter(S) and dump the fuel line pre filter into a gas can with clean gas. I'm looking at the fuel filter, I got a nice clear spectre one... There's a TINY bit of black specs on the filter, but other than that the fuel is CLEAR. I still will eventually have it flushed.. seems OK for now?? You can drive it, but it's not recomended. you might have valves lightly tapping pistons, or just lousy performance from them not opening enough Well... I mean, it wont hurt much to just break the engine in today will it? Quote Link to comment
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