kid builds 510

[B25]

I apologize for the low quality pics, but I installed one of the coilovers.

 

 

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/photo0686i.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I installed it so that the top of the spring rests upon only the elastic bearing mount, without a spring seat or thrust bearing.

is that how it is supposed to go?

I didnt think so, but I wasnt given any spring seats or bearings that would work with the coilovers..

 

also, I am missing literally almost all of the nuts and some of the bolts for the front suspension.

I basically bought the car half assmebled without knowing it.

are these parts readily available at hardware stores?

 

thanks!

[WagDatto]

For the most part, yes, every bolt on the car can be replaced at a local hardware store. Make sure you bring in the bolts you want to replace, and I suggest either tagging them or bagging them with a label as to what they're for and how many of that particular bolt you need.

 

If you already know that the front strut has a bend at the weld, I do not suggest using it. I would try to find another one, or upgrade to 280zx struts for the better brakes. Downside to that is you'll likely need new strut inserts, a new brake master cylinder, and the bump-steer spacers as well. But if you're going to spend money, I suggest you do it on brakes!!

[B25]

i know its a bad idea, and I know I should just convert to 280zx front and 200sx rear brakes and strust, but I went ahead and installed the coilovers, and stuck the wheels on,

then I went to the hardware store, and started a bolt buying frenzy, replacing some of the missing suspension bolts and other things.

my plan is to replace every bolt I can with a hex head, just because I like allen bolts, and they dont strip.

 

here is the car, in all of her glory.

 

 

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

after i took that pic, I installed the headlights and lowered the front even more.

 

 

I have alot of work ahead of me..

on the bright side, both of the coilovers seem to work, and the suspension is silently functional.

 

now here is the new dilemma:

 

what am I going to do for an engine?

 

I want to do KA24DE but they are so hard to find and expensive!

 

anybody have any sub-$500 used engine suggestions?

 

I was toying with using the EJ22 from a subaru, but that just sounds like a bloodbath of fab and elbow grease.

 

thanks!

 

-Mitch

[B25]

By the way:

 

I am getting rid of a TON of stock 510 parts including:

 

--

 

stock hood

 

inner door trim for 1 door

 

various interior trimmings

 

stock steering box

 

stock rear differential

 

the 4 wheels you see in the pics

 

4 rusted out brake calipers and 2 functional ones

 

stock radiator with fan

 

engine wiring harness

 

stock struts and springs without top cover and bolts

 

--

 

PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANY REQUESTS OR WOULD LIKE TO BUY ANY OF THE ABOVE ITEMS.

[WagDatto]

KA's should not be expensive. If the ones you're seeing are more than $500-600 for a full swap (tranny, motor, harness, ecu), it's a rip off. Hit up nissan forums (zilvia, ka-t, etc) and the prices there should be more affordable, so long as you can find someone near you. Craigslist, many times, has inflated prices for "drift tax" but the fact that the KA motor is coming out for an SR (9 times out of 10, that is), means people are just looking to recoup some money and get rid of everything from under the hood at once. I suggest either L series or KA for reliability, ease of swap and lack of fab.

 

I still suggest that if the strut is bent on one side (or both) and has those nasty welds to get rid of them now before you spend money elsewhere, get the car running and have it fall apart over the first bump.

[B25]

thanks wagdatto.

 

When I get the money I will throw down on some new struts!

do you think I could swap over the coilovers I have now into new struts?

It doesnt look like it to me, although I guess I could buy new ground controls with the struts.

 

how much do you think junkyard 280zx fronts would be?

 

EDIT: how much for 280zx struts with bump steer spacer, master cylinder and inserts

[DRIVEN]

how much for 280zx struts with bump steer spacer, master cylinder and inserts

Probably $400-$500

[Laecaon]

I picked up my zx fronts without calipers for $73. Bought some reman calipers from rockauto, got some pads, and a collar for the lower spring perch. My ZX shocks were still good.

 

Here are some bumpsteer spacers, also called Roll Center Adjusters(RCA). http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=808

 

inserts add to the cost, and are probably only really needed if you are running coilovers on them.

 

New M/C? my stock one seems more than adequate. Pedal has a faster response than any car I have driven.

 

 

I am not running any spacers on my goon and havent noticed a real change to the handling, except it being more stable on the freeway.

[hobbes_the_cat]

the 280zx and 510 have the same size dia.strut tube so your current coilovers will fit the 280zx stuff. when i did the swap the stock master cyl did not cut it, was way too soft, had to switch to a 280z master since i'm runnin stock rear brakes. go with a 280zx if you going with discs in the back. IMO bumpsteer spacers are a necessity if your going to go more than an inch or two lower than stock. it was a night and day difference for me without the spacers. my steering was jerky like a bumpercar without em. a ratsun member sells em on ebay new for $50

[B25]

thats what I like to hear hobbes!

 

how do I go about removing my coilovers from the struts though..?

 

news:

the parents may be invest in a KA24DE for my august birthday

[WagDatto]

There's a nut on top of the strut tube on your 510 struts (and 280zx struts). Use a pair of vice grips, or anything large enough to grab the nut, and crack it loose. There's a small notch on some of the sides, and you're meant to use something like a flat head and tap it loose, but I've had bad luck with them being "aged into place" and won't come undone... hence, vice grips. Once the nut is loose, thread it off, and slide off the coilovers.

 

To put them on your new struts, you'll need to weld a collar for it to sit on. Figure out where you want the sleeves to sit, mark the spot it sits, and pop a collar on! I bought a set of bolt-on shaft collars, which I was able to move from tube to tube or adjust the overall sleeve height as necessary that never gave me any issues, even with 300# springs, low stance and aggressive driving on aggressive roads, so if you don't want to weld, you can go that route.

 

If/when you get new struts, compress the shock and see if it rebounds. If it comes back up, you're good, otherwise order a set of cheap OEM replacements from your local parts store. Shouldn't be pricey for a set of crap Monroes.

 

As was said, if you're going lower than an inch or two, you should get the spacers (RCA's). As was also said, you can pick them up for fairly cheap online, and it will correct the angle your control arm sits at, reducing the "pull" on your steering you would otherwise get as the suspension compresses (AKA bump steer, dig it?)

 

The last investment you may or may not need/want would be a set of camber plates. You can get a used set for a decent price, you just have to search for a set of S13 240sx plates (they'll bolt right in). Matter of fact, these might have sold, but here's a deal right up your alley if you're set on going with this strut setup:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/31864-rca-bumpsteer-spacers-and-tein-camber-plates/

 

In any case, if you're swapping to the ZX struts, they come with bigger brakes and better calipers, but you will NOT be able to fit most 13" or some 14" wheels. Be sure to check your wheel sizes before you devote yourself to this swap. The 280zx came with a 15/16" master cylinder, and the 510 with a 13/16". While some people are running the stock 510 BMC, I had better piece of mind swapping to a refurbished ZX unit, as the stock 510 part is pushing 40 years old and isn't the correct size anyway. They're pricey, but you may be able to buy a used one and a rebuild kit somewhere online to reduce the price.

 

If you do go with the KA swap, plan on a few unexpected expenses along the way. Keep in mind you'll need some of the following major items:

 

Motorset, tranny, wire harness, MAF, intake, etc

Shortened driveshaft

Fuel pump/modified gas tank

Fuel lines

Modified engine crossmember

Transmission crossmember

Radiator and new tubes

Modified wiring

Throttle cable modification

 

There's other little goodies you'll be surprised with along the way, too, but do some research, get things going before you need them, and you'll be fine. It's a swap that's been done to death, so there's tons of information to be had... for free!!

[B25]

word wagdatto. thanks for the info guys. sorry for the child questions, I had never taken a wrench to a car before 4 days ago.

 

I will begin the major updates as soon as I get the KA.

 

thanks!

[B25]

so I took off my front disc calipers, and, upon closer inspection, they have the name of Akebono, an aftermarket brake corporation on them.

 

 

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

 

[/img]

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

I looked up akebono and I couldnt find any info about them making OEM datsun 510 calipers, which makes me think my calipers may be swaps from another car,

or at least better than stock, which would be cool, just because it would be nice not to have to upgrade everything to 280zx stuff.

 

what do ya'll think? I dont even know, I entered every damn number on the caliper and got nothing for serial number or model identification except a sale on Jaguar X-Type Pads made by akebono..

 

thanks!

[Jester]

Welcome to Ratsun Mitch. Your getting some great experience with building your own car. A lot of kids just want mommy and daddy to hand them a new one. My hats off to you kid! Were in Oregon are you? There are Ratsun peeps everywhere. Maybe one of us can come help you if you need an extra hand. Plus we may be able to head you to a good wrecking yard or parts store that will have the parts you need at a better price than others.

[Skib]

sorry for the child questions, I had never taken a wrench to a car before 4 days ago.

 

 

 

dont apologize for that, thats exactly what you should be doing right now.

its how you learn the proper way of doing shit.

 

 

moar points to ya for wanting to get in and build your car the right way instead of paying a shop to do it or begging mommy and daddy for some gay ass honda EG hatch or whatever gay car most 16yr old kids want now days.

[B25]

Ya'll are bros. thanks a bunch.

 

Im in Northeast Portland.

if you guys have wrecking yard suggestions I would be so grateful, I havent found a good nissan/datsun yard yet and I need one right about now.

 

I just bought a 2 liter of coke and set one of my front calipers in it to De-Rust for the night, I really want to find out more about these brakes that came with it.

 

Im still working on the parents for the engine, and if anyone is trying to get rid of a KA24 for cheap hit me up for sure.

[Z chopper]

I just bought a 2 liter of coke and set one of my front calipers in it to De-Rust for the night, I really want to find out more about these brakes that came with it.

 

 

uhmmm coca cola??? you may not have a caliper in the morning, coca cola will eat away metal over night

[izzo]

uhmmm coca cola??? you may not have a caliper in the morning, coca cola will eat away metal over night

 

 

Coca cola will also make pigs fly and monkeys come out your ass.

[Z chopper]

uhmmm coca cola??? you may not have a caliper in the morning, coca cola will eat away metal over night

 

 

Coca cola will also make pigs fly and monkeys come out your ass.

 

 

I should have added to keep an eye on it

[izzo]

I should have added to keep an eye on it

 

 

:rofl: Couldn't resist, sorry man

[Z chopper]

:rofl: Couldn't resist, sorry man

 

 

no worries

reached my rep quota or I'd rep ya one

[Laecaon]

If you need the stock front calipers, I have some that I pulled off at the beginning of June and they were working then.

[.sunlover]

I work in northeast, nights, I can also help with used parts, through who I know, i'm not selling a bit of my 510 project spare parts, until it's properly running with the replacement parts, but as far as my help goes, i've just rebuilt/worked the l20b alot, and built my own wiring harness, changed my interior ( chose mostly 510 for my 521 and 280z accents to give the wrap around effect, so subtle changes like gauges, seats, armrests, center console, saving my old carpet with rattle can spray paint to both re-black, and get that musty, old car smell out, etc chase it with air fresheners), not trying to do any work for you, how would you learn anything that way? You gotta' know what you're doing to keep these on the road hopefully daily. Glad you're not wasting the time I did thinking you can figure it all out yourself, and not asking one bit of advice. I learned that even if I am smart enough to figure it all out, the amount of thinking it requires spread across so many areas..... And you can just ask someone that knows already . Anyway, good start to actually driving a completed project around, and soon. Good luck, and i'm glad you're keeping it nissan. Compared to 15 years ago, it just seems like they've vanished, they were everywhere, driven by crazy idiots like myself, overloaded as work trucks and beat to shit, no matter what you did to a datsun, it just kept going, 300k on regular oil was a given fact. Shit, I grew up watching the dukes of hazzard, never knew the general lee broke after every jump, and jumped mine into the air 20-30 times, drove it into flat spins on onramps, 2 lane roads, etc, none of which I would recommend, i'm lucky to be alive, and wreck free, but my point is, you picked a winner vehicle, you have a winner attitude, and as many will tell you, keep it datsun, these guys knew what they were doing, sure there are upgrades to be had, even from other companys (arguably :) ), but don't fuck with the formula too much. for a comprehensive list of what not to do, see "ricer sightings" IMO it's about being more than you appear to be, not appearing to be more than what you are (to the motor ignorant) That's enough of my half drunken ramblings for the evening, goodnight.

[WagDatto]

I know you PM'd me a question about shaft collars, but I figured I'd reply here so as to inform anybody else interested in the same thing. The question was where to find shaft collars that would fit 510 or 280zx struts, what style to use, what size is proper, etc. A 510 and ZX strut uses the same size tubing, 2". A quick search on ebay finds me an online store that sells all sizes and styles of collars.

 

The big confusing points are what style collar and what material. They make aluminum and steel, set point and split. You want a steel double split style collar.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Double-Split-Shaft-Collar-Oxide-Steel-2SC-200-/370511286580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5644319134#ht_1092wt_1141

 

With aluminum, although it's lighter, it uses steel bolts, and will corrode/bind together, especially in a spot like on the strut tube which sees dirt, grime, moisture, etc. The split style gives MUCH more clamping force than the single split or set screw, and again, since we're talking suspension, why not rock the strongest one?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Akebono is stock calipers parts on nissans.

 

Are you pulling the wire harness out and getting rid of it????????? If so, WHY!!!!!!!!!!!????????

 

Pulled "wire harnessness" have made more Projects on the "Incomplete section" on this site than anything else

 

read all this

http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm