kid builds 510

[B25]

Hey!

Im Mitch, from Oregon, and I just bought a 1970 510 today.

 

so I thought I would do a project log, which I will update with pics and developments in my build.

 

Preface:

Im 15, and I have never worked on a car in my life, this means I will probably do some stupid things, and you all can correct me, if you want.

 

The car:

I bought it without a motor or transmission for $500

it is partially stripped of paint, but not completely,

it began life as an automatic, but had a pretty sketchy manual conversion before I got it

My buddy and I think it could have been used for racing before we got it, as it came with coilovers (one of which was welded all the way around on the shock(as if it had snapped in half) and there was evidence of a small fire in the engine bay.

 

 

Pics:

 

 

 

 

http://imageshack.us...39052971412.jpg

 

 

http://imageshack.us.../photo0675y.jpg

 

 

 

Im still working out how to embed images sorry

[datzenmike]

I fixed these two for you but here's some info on posting your own pictures... http://community.rat...e-photo-albums/

 

 

Some reading....

 

 

How To Plan A Project by J Searls (okayfine) In “Suggestions for New 510 Owners,” I included a section on project planning. Planning is vital to the success of most any project, especially automotive ones. Current culture and society have removed or eliminated some of the foundations of planning knowledge and ability. Novice mechanics may never have stood by their fathers as they maintained and repaired the Family Truckster and many have also grown up in our current “disposable” society where non-functioning items are trashed instead of inspected and repaired.

 

It is almost never too late to develop planning skills and put them to practice. Reading that you have to “plan” a project is all fine and good however, but what does it really mean? It means many things, actually, and all good project plans involve five broad elements as we’ll detail below. The five elements can be summed up as money, tools, time, space, and skill. Each element is important for the do-it-yourselfer in equal measure, and they are often intertwined. If you have the money to pay someone else to craft your project then your tools, your time, your skill, and your space (or lack of them) don’t factor in, but if you have that kind of money, you likely aren’t reading this article. For most of us in the real world we can’t afford to have someone else build it or to begin a project destined for failure.

 

It goes beyond those five elements, though, and should also include a concept of the finished product and how to get from the beginning to the end. This article can’t help with the wrenching or motivation to get out there after a long day at work, but the vision in your head of that finished project should do its own to get you out into the garage, even for an hour a night.

 

So far we’ve spoken generally about the planning of a “project.” What constitutes a project? It could be a suspension swap, an engine rebuild, construction of a new dash, an engine swap, or all of those things during a complete rebuild of a bare metal shell. It is generally advisable to start small and work up to bigger and bigger projects. Provided you objectively judge your preparedness in the following five elements, big projects out of the gate don’t have to be avoided. Think of each of the five elements as a stop-gate – if you can’t satisfy the requirements of even one element, your plan needs to be reanalyzed.

 

Money

 

We will start off with money because, of the five elements, money is the least important provided the other four are already in place. Off-the-shelf bolt-on parts are expensive because fabricators value their time greatly and their skills are generally in limited supply. If your skills are sufficient to fulfill your vision, you can save significant money on the build of your 510 by doing nearly everything yourself. Sending out for a flipped front crossmember is $200 while doing it yourself is a few hours…as long as you know how to properly jig the crossmember, have a welder handy, and know how to use it.

 

Your budget involves more than labor charges for fabricated parts, however. You would be hard-pressed to build an engine from raw materials even if you had plenty of tools, time, skill, and space. Hard parts like engines, suspension components, and wheels have specific costs you will have to account for in your budget. When you do, do not forget about all the related costs that your project will incur. An engine swap will likely need cooling and fuel system modifications but could also require brake and suspension system upgrades. You might start out with a desire for coilovers on the front of your 280ZX struts but will the front strut insert dampening match your chosen spring rate? What about the rear springs? If your new suspension setup lowers your car, how are you going to correct the rear suspension toe and camber? Will the tires and rims fit the new suspension and lowered stance?

 

Money, if possibly the least necessary of the five broad elements, is likely the most restricted, especially for novice mechanics. Before spending dollar one, determine if your plans can be accomplished for the budget you have set. Novice mechanics frequently allocate tiny amounts of money for significant projects, either in the belief that buying the engine constitutes the complete outlay of money for the engine swap or because a friend thrice-removed said it only cost his brother’s cousin $25 to swap in his junkyard KA24E.

 

Tools

 

Do you have the tools to build your vision? The tools required vary from person to person, just as each person’s project will vary. They obviously include basic mechanics’ tool sets with end wrenches, screwdrivers, socket sets, etc. The more involved your project, however, the more important the correct tools become. Some new tools will likely be purchased prior to big projects, but that’s part of the fun. The reality is, though, that the tool budget directly impacts the parts budget and sometimes it doesn’t make sense to buy every tool you’ll need.

 

For many welding jobs, for instance, a MIG welder will do just fine – if it’s made of steel and part of a 510, any good (Lincoln, Miller, etc.) 120V welder will be sufficient. Increasingly, aluminum is involved in 510 fabrication and that requires a TIG welder. Neither is cheap and you can easily spend thousands of dollars on either. If you’ve only got a few parts that need welding, determine if the welding can be outsourced to a local shop or acquaintance (Bluebirds’ list or 510 Realm member, for instance). If all you need is a crossmember flipped, the $200 cost for an exchange piece sure outweighs the $700 needed for a MIG rig.

 

For the most part you should have the tools you’ll need. This helps to prevent delays. As with the money component, determine if your plans can be accomplished with the tools you own. If not, budget for the tools you will need to buy and for the labor costs of outsourcing, if necessary.

 

Time

 

Projects take time, this is no surprise. However, projects often take much longer than the novice mechanic appreciates, especially if the quality of the resulting product is important or the impacts of life away from the 510 are taken into account. Time is probably the least valued by most 510 owners because many 510s are owned as hobby cars and working on them is part of the enjoyment of that hobby. The time budget of a successful project plan isn’t about money but it is just as important, and it is most intertwined with space.

 

In the planning for the project, an honest allocation of time is necessary if the car will be rendered undrivable for any length of time. Something as “simple” as changing out the stock Hitachi downdraft carburetor for a set of SUs can be accomplished in a few hours under the best of conditions; it can also take many, many times longer if you need a new manifold gasket and your FLAPS needs a week to order one, or you find your “worked when pulled” set of SUs don’t actually have all the parts in working condition.

 

Time is most intertwined with space because in addition to planning the project you’ll have to arrange space for the project to take place, whether that’s a space in the garage, on the driveway, or at a friend’s house. That last location is the most perilous for obvious reasons, but even your garage space can throw curveballs if you don’t think it through. If your project 510 is immobile in the garage on jack stands what happens when your daily-driver needs an oil change or the Christmas decorations, located directly above the 510 in the rafters, need to come down?

 

Will you have the space available for the time it will take, whether that length of time has been properly estimated or not? If you get your wife to agree to the 510 taking up garage space for four weeks but you know even the best time estimates call for six weeks (and it’ll likely take eight weeks or more), you’re simply setting yourself up for failure.

 

Space

 

As mentioned, space is intertwined with time. Space, however, has its own requirements beyond the relationship with time and it varies with the complexity of the project. Where are your tools? When and where can you make noise (cutting, grinding, swearing)? Where can you cut? Where can you weld? How will weather affect project progress? Do you have space to work around the car without worrying about other cars, storage, or utility use of the rest of the space?

 

Engine swaps have been performed in carports, but that is not anyone’s idea of the proper space for the project. Brake jobs can easily be accomplished in a carport. The space required for your project varies with the project. Again, an honest accounting of the space required will help determine if you have the space necessary and, hence, whether the project you are planning can be successful given the realities you’ll face in regards to space.

 

Skill

 

Skill, for the do-it-yourselfer, is paramount. You can overcome hurdles in most of the other elements with an excess of skill. If you don’t have the required skill, all the time, tools, and space won’t help you be successful.

 

Skill isn’t something you can acquire by reading about it, skill is developed by doing. Often that initial “doing” is accompanied by a lot of failing, but failure is as good a teacher as any provided you learn the lessons it teaches you. As mentioned above, it is rare these days to have a family figure show you the ropes by working on the Family Truckster, so where do you start to develop your abilities? Start small. Oil changes, brake changes, tune-ups, that sort of thing. Minor mechanical adventures are hard to get wrong as long as you’re careful and follow the procedures outlined in a service manual or the like. Success with these small projects builds confidence to tackle larger ones, and success also provides its own feedback and lessons learned.

 

There is a component of skill that also can’t be readily taught: critical thinking. What does critical thinking have to do with welding skill or fabrication skill or wiring skill? Everything. In wiring up a modern engine swap, you’ll have to make decisions regarding where to source constant power from, how to tie in the engine harness to the chassis harness, what wires can be eliminated, etc. These decisions can be made on your own, provided you have examined and evaluated the wiring diagrams and can understand the electrical flow of components outlined in the factory service manual. Critical thinking is necessary to do anything beyond follow a step-by-step guide. As you’re dealing with custom processes, there’s little in the way of true step-by-step instructions for most 510 modifications.

 

Concept

 

You can have the tools, time, money, skills, and space to accomplish your project, but what is that project? Creating a concept, whether on paper or in your mind, can be crucial. A revised suspension is more than a parts list of coilovers, camber plates, and urethane bushings. What kind of ride and handling attributes do you want? Will that new suspension match how you end up driving the car? Will it match your budget and your mechanical skill?

 

The concept is probably the most ambiguous of the project planning elements discussed in this article, but it may be the most important. The overall concept can help keep you motivated during times of little progress (just thinking about the finished project can be quite the motivator). Keeping your concept in mind can also keep you focused on the project plan. Sure, you may have stumbled on this killer deal for a set of 0-offset, ultra-rare JDM wheels and they’re too cheap to pass up and no one else has them on a 510, but if they won’t fit your suspension and don’t really fit your plans for the appearance of the finished project…are they worth it?

 

Keeping focused on the concept is key, therefore development of this concept is of utmost importance. As with everything here, the concept varies according to the project. Put simply, examine the impacts your project will have on the car and determine how to best shape those impacts to your ideal. If you aren’t sure about what your ideal is, that’s where researching and networking with 510 enthusiasts comes in. If you know you want an engine swap because you are sold on the benefits of EFI, EI, and modern reliability and power but you don’t know which engine is right for your budget, skill, and how you will drive the car, do your research.

 

Research

 

You may have noticed that “research” is not part of the five broad elements I feel is necessary for a successful project. Research can take the place of some of each of the five elements and should not be discounted, but provided you have objectively judged your budget, tools, time, skill, and space to be adequate, you likely have no need to research.

 

I did no research during the conception and execution of my SU-fed SR20DE because I knew it was straight-forward, if not easy. Having honestly evaluated the five elements before beginning the project I knew I knew I was going to need help with the aluminum welding and melding of the SR CAS and L-series distributor – and that’s exactly what happened. The fabricated SU manifold bolted up and the carbs fired the engine straight away. The distributor slid home as stock and, after some faulty parts were replaced on the “rebuilt” distributor, ran just like an L-series EI dizzy.

 

With a solid plan and concept, anything is possible. If you look around the 510 world at the failed projects, they failed most often because the five elements mentioned above were not honestly assessed. Most often lacking is the skill required to pull off their concept. A KA swap may seem common these days and every Dimer wants something unique, but a KA is a great engine for a 510 and because it is relatively common there’s tons of information about it.

 

If you take away only one thing from this article, ensure that you’re honest with yourself when contemplating a big 510 project. Are your desires based on more than just the current trends? Do you understand the compromises your project will bring (and, trust me, everything is a compromise)? Do you have what it takes to see your plan through to the end, successfully? There’s nothing wrong with sticking to a stock-based 510; L-series and carbs have powered every single 510 in existence at one time or another. Don’t aim for the stars, aim for reality.

 

[DAT510]

You won't screw anything up now that you joined Ratsun (SARCASM) :lol: but seriously ask all the questions you want and i suggest buying the Haynes manual to familiarize yourself with the car. oh, i noticed you spelled America wrong trololol

 

PS i'm 15 aswell :D

[datzenmike]

Suggestions for New 510 Owners by okayfine The latest DQ hit my mailbox this afternoon. In it is an article I wrote regarding suggestions for new 510 owners. This is a culmination of suggestions from the BB list and The Realm and, hopefully, will serve new owners well. It will eventually be linked on the DQ home page, but I felt it should also be posted here (and on the BB list) as it is that sort of information. So, herein I present to you: Suggestions for New 510 Owners!

 

-----------------------

 

You’ve just bought your first 510. You’re very excited, in fact you’re geeked. You can’t wait to get home and start stripping the car for paint, to start turning wrenches and yank that ol’ L-series out of the way. What’s the next step after parking that 510 in your driveway for the first time? This article is meant as a guide to the new 510 owner, exploring the common wisdom of how to and how not to tackle and tame the excitement finally buying a 510 brings. Many of the suggestions that follow also apply to the 510 owner who has stepped up to the purchase of a swapped 510. The learning curve begins anew with the introduction of EFI, ECUs, and the other assorted bits common in a modern, swapped 510.

 

Service Manuals

The first thing a 510 owner should purchase after their 510 is a service manual. Many of the basic questions are answered in the various service manuals and having that information readily available gets the new owner to begin learning, researching, and developing mechanical skills on their own. For new owners of swapped 510s, purchasing the Nissan factory service manual covering the specific year of the engine swap is vital.

 

I very much recommend the "How To Keep Your Datsun Alive" book written by Colim Messer and published by John Muir Publications. For stock mechanicals nothing surpasses it. It isn't common these days, being out of print, however they can still be found for reasonable amounts of money to this day and, even at $40, it is easily worth double that to a new 510 owner. Sadly, this book doesn't tackle the electrical side of things, so another reference book with electrical troubleshooting and a wiring diagram will be necessary.

 

How to Keep Your Datsun L-Series-Z-Series Nissan Alive

ISBN: 031764890X

 

Other recommended 510 books are listed on the DQ web site:

http://tinyurl.com/510books

 

Service manuals are available for viewing at http://www.datsun510.com.

 

Wiring Diagrams

A wiring diagram for your year and transmission type is also a vital purchase, one which should accompany or quickly follow the purchase of a service manual. Some service manuals such as the factory service manual and the Haynes book include a black-and-white diagram that is laid out across the page spread. This will work in a pinch, but is difficult to read in the best of conditions. Currently Paolo Musante offers up a mammoth 22” x 34” laminated wiring diagram, or a “standard” 11” x 17” version.

 

http://tinyurl.com/Paolowiring

 

Contact Paolo at paolo@cedarcomm.com or 360-657-2700.

 

The Dime, Quarterly Newsletter

DQ is the only technical 510 newsletter going. Over the 12 years of its publication it has covered many pertinent topics to a depth not commonly seen in other club newsletters. DQ articles are well-written and clearly photographed/illustrated. DQ continues to publish at a high level and has evolved as 510s have evolved. DQ publishes four times a year in January, April, July, and October. The January issue includes an 11” x 17” color calendar. DQ subscribers also have access to recent digital versions of the newsletter via the website. At $15 per year it is a bargain.

 

The DQ backissues collection is also strongly recommended. As noted above, much has already been covered by DQ and that information is often referenced on the Bluebirds maillist.

 

http://www.dimequarterly.com

 

The Internet: Maillists and Forums

The internet changed 510 ownership as no other technology has. The Bluebirds maillist has been running since the early ‘90s. Anything a new 510 owner is likely to encounter or consider has been discussed ten different ways on the Bluebirds list. The Bluebirds archive is a valuable searching tool to help new owners research their questions. The list members of the Bluebirds span lifetime 510 owners, infamous personalities, and lurkers galore, but with a focus on 510 knowledge and high signal-to-noise ratios, it is a very valuable reference for recent and long-standing 510 owners alike.

 

There are many, many 510-related forums on the internet. Some are focused more on a specific region, some on a specific style of modification, and some are sub-forums of Nissan forums or industry magazines. With the abundance of choice, a suitable match of content and style can easily be found. Recommended as an established and well-rounded 510 forum is The 510 Realm. The 510 Realm also features a usable search engine.

 

A suggestion after registering for the Bluebird list or any forum is to lurk for a while. Spend a few months reading current posts to see how registered members interact and share. Each group has a different style. Once you’ve acquainted yourself with the Bluebird’s list or one of the 510-centric forums, introduce yourself and post a couple pictures of your car. Everyone subscribed to the Bluebirds list or the forum you’re on are car geeks and want to see your car whether it’s a basket case or a previously-restored SR20DET monster.

 

When you do post a problem or question to the internet, ensure you’re providing as much information as possible. Whether you have a problem or question, the more information you provide the better and more directed the response you’ll receive. If you’ve got a problem keeping your L16 idling and you provide a comprehensive summary of what, when, where, and how and also detail the steps you’ve taken to diagnose and/or troubleshoot the issue, the responses you receive won’t be filled with questions regarding what, when, where, and how and won’t contain the basic diagnostic steps common to your problem. If you’re posting about an issue you can’t figure out, that’s what the internet is for; asking spark plug gap measurement or the torque measurement for the front hub is what a service manual is for.

 

Bluebirds Maillist instructions:

http://tinyurl.com/ytoulu

 

The 510 Realm website:

http://www.the510realm.com

 

Don’t Get In Over Your Head

It is easy to get excited about buying a 510. Don’t let that excitement blind you to the true condition of the car you are considering. Research what you should know when you go to look at a car. The 510, like all cars, has particular trouble spots. In addition to that, assess your own skills and consider them when looking at a 510. You won’t satisfy your urge to have a 510 if you can’t fix the car you buy. Don’t rely on the internet to fix your car for you.

 

If the car is not running (or has issues running reliably), do you have the knowledge and tools to set about diagnosing the problem and rectifying it? Buying a non-running car is always a gamble and for the first-time 510 owner may not be worth the “savings” versus what a running car will cost. That savings could quickly be eaten up by downtime, parts cost, and intervention by a mechanic if it is discovered that the car has problems beyond your ability to repair. If the car isn’t running it isn’t possible to check many of the systems of the car and you’ll have to take the word of the seller as to the condition.

 

A running 510 is the best option, obviously. A new 510 owner can come to terms with the car on their terms, and can gain familiarity with the car’s mechanical and electrical systems over time via small improvement projects. As knowledge is gained and diagnosing skills are refined, bigger issues/problems/modifications will be easier to tackle.

 

Now, with the research and information angles taken care of, what should be the next step along the path of 510 ownership? Overflowing enthusiasm notwithstanding, a big project should be the last thing on your mind.

 

Keep It Alive

A new 510 owner will inevitably find himself dreaming of glorious SR20DET power, four-wheel coilovers, big brakes, and a custom interior. Sadly, these grand dreams most often end in a parted-out project. This isn’t always due to a lack of time or money, but is almost always due to a lack of planning and a lack of ability.

 

Every 510 will need some work. Some cars will need more work than others. A new 510 shouldn’t be immediately thrust into a project, especially if the owner is new to 510s himself. Take time to take stock of the car. What does the car need to be a reliable driver? Does it need work just to turn over the engine? Does it have rust? Will it drive at all? While keeping engine swap plans in the background, focus on making the car reliable. An engine swap is a large project in itself, it will be made much more difficult if there are issues with the base 510 prior to the swap.

 

While learning about the stock 510 mechanicals (and helped by the “How To Keep Your Datsun Alive” book), new 510 owners will begin to develop their mechanical skills. Troubleshooting, diagnosis, and repair of parts is what makes a mechanic; simply whipping out a credit card and throwing parts at the problem does not. Ownership of a 510 without mechanical abilities is not an issue as they will be developed over the course of 510 ownership. Attempting to own a 510 without a desire to develop mechanical abilities is a mistake.

 

Retain “Old” Parts

There will come a time when a new 510 owner will look to upgrade parts of his 510. This is not only expected, it is practically a requirement. The wisdom here is to not throw out functional “old” parts that are being changed for upgrades. Datsun parts are becoming harder and harder to come by and 510 ownership takes so many twists and turns one can never say, “I will never need these bumper overriders, I’m removing them and tossing them in the trash.”

 

Someone will always need the parts being thrown away. Maybe not today, maybe not next year, but the parts situation is dire enough to guarantee someone will have a need for “old” parts. Whether that turns into a money-making opportunity or a barter situation depends on the part and the condition, but “old” parts will always have some value to someone.

 

And that someone may be the owner offering up the parts. Taking a stock 510 and turning it into a resto-mod, swapped 510 may result in a pile of stock parts that are “worthless.” However, it may come to pass that the resto-mod 510 gets sold and possession is taken of another 510 closer to stock that needs those “worthless” parts. Paying again for parts thrown away in haste will have a bitter taste.

 

Plan Major Projects

All major restorations and modifications of 510s are finished in part because the owner had a solid plan. DQ has begun showing subscribers some of the behind-the-scenes work that goes in to a successful 510 project with the “Reader’s Project” series of articles. It takes a lot of research to determine the desired modifications and even the best type of car to start from. From there, acquiring all the necessary parts is a project in itself, whether shelling out the cash gets them delivered or welding steel creates them in the garage. If the owner cannot perform all the modifications himself, a serious questioning of the plan should be undertaken. It is a helpless feeling to stare at a 510 project in the garage, immobile because of someone else’s timetable.

 

The more prepared the owner is, the greater the chance of ultimate success. Even if the owner finds himself waiting for parts to be delivered or fabricated, following the mantra of “Just Do Something” will keep the project rolling, if somewhat slower than originally anticipated. Budgets will be exceeded, timelines will be pushed out, concepts will change over time. Being prepared for these things will help reduce their impact on a project.

 

However, if the basics aren’t taken care of, a fun project will become a pain, and only masochists like pain. Any major project will need the research done and parts purchased or fabricated, but it will also need a place to work on the car long-term, the understanding of all involved (be they parents, girlfriends, wives), the time to work on the car, and owner motivation to see the project completed successfully.

 

[datzenmike]

Here's a link to "What to look for when buying a 510" ...http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10023

 

 

I know you already have it but it's never too late to learn.

[B25]

Datzen Mike thanks a ton man!

 

its 10 AM here and I just finished taking off the front brake calipers, so I will take a bit of time to read that stuff before i go remove the front hubs.

 

BTW: update on car.

it seems the bushings are completely destroyed everywhere. and the front suspension is coated in grime etc.

 

the plan is to remove the front suspension and clean it up, with new bushings and a bath, and stick it back on with some coilovers I got in the build.

 

New Question:

some coilovers came with the car, and one of them has welding all around the shock at the bottom, as if It had snapped (I will post a pic),

is it safe to install these?

 

http://imageshack.us/f/838/photo0680t.jpg/

 

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/photo0681.jpg/

[B25]

lol thanks DAT510 I will pick up that manual sometime today.

[DISLEXICDIME]

hay that's charlies old car http://community.ratsun.net/user/1625-charlie6178/ to bad the guy you bought it from ruined it. looking forward to seeing some one fix it back up.

[datzenmike]

You can't break those tubes. Someone may have grafted the bottoms on from a ZX or may have shortened them, but either way it's a strange way to do it.

 

Can you tell if there is a bend at the weld? If so it might be an attempt at correcting camber.

 

[Skib]

1. read every last word mike posted....

 

2. looks you have your work cut out for you.

 

3. never stop reading and educating yourself on the subject.

I highly suggest you pick up the book "How to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine"

along with "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" and "How to hotrod and race in Your Datsun"

you may not use everything in them but they are full of awesome info that will get you more familiar with mechanics and the mechanics of your car.

 

4. dont be afraid to ask questions...... but the search button is also your friend ;)

 

5. Welcome to Ratsun :cool: theres a lot of us in the NW

[hobbes_the_cat]

Welcome! I saw this on craigslist, glad to see someone here got it.

[Supra510]

I very much recommend the "How To Keep Your Datsun Alive" book written by Colim Messer and published by John Muir Publications. For stock mechanicals nothing surpasses it. It isn't common these days, being out of print, however they can still be found for reasonable amounts of money to this day and, even at $40, it is easily worth double that to a new 510 owner.

 

Agreed. When I knew nothing, it helped with everything. And in layman's terms with real world hints, unlike a Haynes manual.

[Skib]

 

I very much recommend the "How To Keep Your Datsun Alive" book written by Colim Messer and published by John Muir Publications. For stock mechanicals nothing surpasses it. It isn't common these days, being out of print, however they can still be found for reasonable amounts of money to this day and, even at $40, it is easily worth double that to a new 510 owner.

 

 

Agreed. When I knew nothing, it helped with everything. And in layman's terms with real world hints, unlike a Haynes manual.

 

forgot about that one, deff another really good book to have.

[B25]

thanks all for the help, guys, I have to find an impact wrench to install the coilovers, and buy a bushing kit to replace the rags that are the current bushings.

 

I picked up a couple manuals (autobooks and chilton because thats all my local store had)

 

as for the coilover welds, I think that it was an attempt to correct camber, because there is a distinct bend where the welding is.

 

are self locking nuts for my coilovers easy to find? (like could I get them at a local hardware store?)

 

also,

how does this bushing kit look?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-Total-Polyurethane-Bushing-Kit-BLACK-/260510694980

 

is there a cheaper way?

 

and finally, if anyone has a recommendation for an inexpensive impact wrench, that would be super.

 

thanks!

 

[Skib]

 

 

also,

how does this bushing kit look?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-510-Total-Polyurethane-Bushing-Kit-BLACK-/260510694980

 

 

 

thats a pretty good deal on a polly set

[yello620]

Looks like an Energy Suspension kit to me. Do a little reading about installing urethane in the TC rods.

[B25]

Ill read up, and I think once I have the money I will snag a set of those.

[Laecaon]

Yea, you might not want to use that full set. (like mentioned the TC rod)

[B25]

sorry if this is a dumb question, but why would I not want to use polyurethane bushings on t/c rods?

 

thanks!

[Skib]

sorry if this is a dumb question, but why would I not want to use polyurethane bushings on t/c rods?

 

thanks!

 

 

the problem thats come up with using all polly bushings on the T/C rods is that the polly is stiffer than the stock rubber.

great everywhere else, except here.

 

the polly is too stiff and doesnt let the T/C rods flex enough and there prone to snapping.

 

most people run one polly and one rubber, all rubber,

or Iv even heard of some people drilling holes in the polly bushings to flex more.

 

Id personally run all rubber at the T/C and polly for the rest.

[datzenmike]

Polly is hard stuff, I mean f i r m. Rubber on the other hand is more compliant and can grip two moving objects and twist internally. Polly isn't able to do this and will chaff. This chaffing leads to abnormal wear and squeaks. I had some polly shackle bushings on my truck. They ended up oval shape.

 

If you get polly TC components you can drill holes to make them 'give'.

 

 

 

 

Here's the article in the Dime Quarterly: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ Look over on the left side of page in the Technical Dept. under suspension.

.

[B25]

sounds good, thanks skib

EDIT: and thanks datzenmike as well

[DISLEXICDIME]

I don't like poly mounts I would try to find rubber mount's.

[B25]

I did a little looking around, it looks like rubber bushings are much more expensive than poly bushings.

if anyone knows of a set of rubber bushings that are the same price as a set of polyurethane's that would be great.

[Skib]

I did a little looking around, it looks like rubber bushings are much more expensive than poly bushings.

if anyone knows of a set of rubber bushings that are the same price as a set of polyurethane's that would be great.

 

Id just order the full polly set and then just get the TC rod bushings separate in rubber

 

or get after market TC rods and running polly TC bushing arnt going to snap them

 

(they run $200 tho so getting a few individual rubber bushings is cheaper)