Eric Garside Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Lookin for good deals on parts father Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 Yea, I got these from ebay. They went on good, look good. We will see how they look tonight in the dark anyhow. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Ok guys, I have the tail end of my vacation wrapping up this week. There have been so many little things going on that I haven't had time to properly update this thread. I really want to get comprehensive here with you all, and I hope that whatever questions I may be able to answer will be done in a timely, accurate manner. I had my phone get damaged, and I lost many many oics of the final stages of the build. I have a few that I want to share right now, and then summarize SO we are tackling fuel delivery at this point. Obviously I was lucky enough to have a donor truck. To keep costs down I surmised that the most efficient fuel delivery will be that of the stock setup....we know it works the way it is supposed to. Here is the oic of the tanks........smaller one is the stock one obviously In the 77 the tank is still bolted to the bed. Due to the extra heigth of the donor tank, I had to clearance the pickup as shown below I did a little fusing on the rear mount of the tank. Used the top half of the stock bracket and the lower half of the donor bracket and welded them together. This worked perfectly and made the tank solid in the rear. Here is the front mounts that I fabricated. These bolt to the tank, and then up to the frontmost bed support (same supports that the tank was bolted to initially) I ended up gusseting these brackets later on for added strength. No need to mess with having the tank fall out right? Since my truck came with a stock electric pump (truck had factory a/c) I utilized that wiring and the factory harness plug. I also found the fuel sender wire and plugged it into the factory harness as well. This made fuel delivery a cinch. ALSO relpace the fuel pressure line with fuel injection hose. It will say for fuel injection on it. I only had to replace about a foot of this hose. The return line is OK to use the regular fuel hose on. If your truck does not have a steel return line, you will have to fabricate one, as this system relies on this. Also to utilize this setup, you will need to weld the top half of the 620 filler neck to the bottom part of the hardbody filler neck, as the fill hose sizes are different. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Now as far as the wirig of the KA went, it was very easy. there are not many oics left from this. Here we see the harness after we removed the bulk of the un needed wires, and had the relays in place Here is hot the ECU was mounted inside the truck. I mounted the 3 relays on a gang mount and bolted them to a spare bracket on the ecu. The wiring is very clean. The power taps are clean and wrapped well. Everyone promotes soldering everything, but EVERY factory splice in this harness was done with a crimp style connector. I used good quality connectors with sealing compound in them (coolseal). I ran 10 ga wire direct from the battery with a 50 amp MAXI fuse in it for main power feed, and then also fused every wire on the relays themselves as well. After researching what the Can-am box is and does, I decided it was not needed for me to wire in my swap. Not naysaying against what icehouse and co. have accomplished, it just wasn't in the budget, and I have a nice clean install and saved 150$. Now if you are uncomfortable with automotive wiring, and do not understand how a simple single pull double throw automotive relay works, then I would suggest purchasing the can-am wiring box. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 The scope of what I did, looking back on the 2 weeks it took me, from initially pulling out the drivetrain from the donor hardbody to rolling the truck out of the shop and onto the pavement, to the details I tackled afterwards seems staggering. I estimate I have over 150 hours in this. Of course I did a lot of detail work to the truck, in prep for my complete paint job that will hopefully happen over this winter/spring. I am going to attempt to compile a list of all the things I did, modified and tweaked to get this engine swapped over as neatly as possible. Of course i attempted to photo document as much as I could, but sometimes things are not obvious and a photo would do no justice. Like I said I will be here to answer any questions that I can for you interested in doing this yourselves. I don't feel that one needs to be a fabricator to do this swap, but it wouldn't hurt to know your way around a welder, have a collection of scrap steel and bracketry and a shop full of the proper tools. Doing this in your driveway would definitely up the difficulty a bit. So you will need: a ka24e drivetrain. intake from early 240 sx car (89-91) complete with wiring harness and an AUTOMATIC ECU #11 or 14 (I will still tackle the issue of the manual ecu not working over the next few months) Hardbody fuel tank and pump and filler neck hardbody differential carrier from donor if you want speedo right throttle cable from donor truck Pieces of exhaust tubing bends from donor to make downpipe Misc pieces of molded rubber hose (heater PCV radiator) from donor truck a few galvanized 90 degree brackets (about 2x2 available at hardware stores)for making radiator/fan mounts a few standard single pull double throw automotive relays a basic understanding of automotive electrical your driveline lengthened 1.5 to 2.0 inches if you use the HB trans.....If you want to do a bell swap, be my guest, but check other threads for that info, I have no clue A decent welder A die grinder with spur bits and cutoff wheel A side head or bench grinder (both prefferably) Automotive wiring tools A tape measure Lots of 3m tartan black tape Zip ties for fastening wiring The upper rad hose can be modified from the existing stock stuff, possibly the lower too, however I cut up too much trying a different radiator. a 3/4 inch 90 degree coolant elbow for the heater hose A radiator out of a late 80's rabbit worked best for me A front mount pusher fan from a late 90's volvo turbo wagoon worked best for me, with a carquest fan controller assembly. The transmission will fit. Where the tranny bolts to the crossmember needs modified. Elongate the 2 holes so the trans can slide back as far as possible. I also enlongated the tranny mount on the trans so it would slide back to, but this was not a necessity. The plate that trims the trans to the interior I simply flipped around and re screwed it to the trans tunnel. It was a perfect match. I recommend a new boot obviously. The hardbody uses staggered engine mounts. When You set your KA into place I suggest puttin a nice 1/4 to 3/8: piece of wood between the oil pan and cross member. You will see the mount on the pass side is very close. You just need to cut it vertically and re tack it to gether since this engine requires a taller mount. The drivers side also needs to be cut vertically, but the bottom half that bolts to the frame is going to need to move back approx 1/2". There are many ways to do this, I used some thick angle Iron to attatch to the mount to achieve this. This is a very simple operation that requires welding. This part, and the exhaust are about all you will need a welder for ( I welded the top half of my original shifter to the hb trans lower half to keep that stock look and also for making brackets for the fuel tank. depending on your taste you may or may not need to do this) At this point the drivetrain is virtually in. If you are getting your driveline lengthened, double check your measurements. A bell swap would negate the necessity for this. Now all of the rest of the plumbing id up to you guys, there are many radiators that will work, many cooling fan assy's too. Be imaginative, be patient and make it look good. The best swaps, even if not all painted and dolled up, are the ones where you can see the time was taken to do it right. cluterfucking it all together and going back to "clean it up later" probably won't ever happen, and you will not only have something that looks like ass, but will be prone to failure. Take your time and enjoy the added power, style and fuel economy of the KA powerplant! Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Just a teaser here, just a small look at whats to come over the next few months...........just when I thought just having the ka was enough. enjoy Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 :thumbup: :fu: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 :cool: Soo the 3:5 are pretty good huh? How are they around town? Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Not bad at all. they do require me to stay in 3rd geat at 35mph, where before I could have it in 4th and keep the rpm's down more. I broke 30 mpg this weekend on my driving around, so I am seriously very happy with that!! This was also mixed in town and hi way driving so nothing to complain about! Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 The scope of what I did, looking back on the 2 weeks it took me, from initially pulling out the drivetrain from the donor hardbody to rolling the truck out of the shop and onto the pavement, to the details I tackled afterwards seems staggering. I estimate I have over 150 hours in this. Of course I did a lot of detail work to the truck, in prep for my complete paint job that will hopefully happen over this winter/spring. I am going to attempt to compile a list of all the things I did, modified and tweaked to get this engine swapped over as neatly as possible. Of course i attempted to photo document as much as I could, but sometimes things are not obvious and a photo would do no justice. Like I said I will be here to answer any questions that I can for you interested in doing this yourselves. I don't feel that one needs to be a fabricator to do this swap, but it wouldn't hurt to know your way around a welder, have a collection of scrap steel and bracketry and a shop full of the proper tools. Doing this in your driveway would definitely up the difficulty a bit. So you will need: a ka24e drivetrain. intake from early 240 sx car (89-91) complete with wiring harness and an AUTOMATIC ECU #11 or 14 (I will still tackle the issue of the manual ecu not working over the next few months) Hardbody fuel tank and pump and filler neck hardbody differential carrier from donor if you want speedo right throttle cable from donor truck Pieces of exhaust tubing bends from donor to make downpipe Misc pieces of molded rubber hose (heater PCV radiator) from donor truck a few galvanized 90 degree brackets (about 2x2 available at hardware stores)for making radiator/fan mounts a few standard single pull double throw automotive relays a basic understanding of automotive electrical your driveline lengthened 1.5 to 2.0 inches if you use the HB trans.....If you want to do a bell swap, be my guest, but check other threads for that info, I have no clue A decent welder A die grinder with spur bits and cutoff wheel A side head or bench grinder (both prefferably) Automotive wiring tools A tape measure Lots of 3m tartan black tape Zip ties for fastening wiring The upper rad hose can be modified from the existing stock stuff, possibly the lower too, however I cut up too much trying a different radiator. a 3/4 inch 90 degree coolant elbow for the heater hose A radiator out of a late 80's rabbit worked best for me A front mount pusher fan from a late 90's volvo turbo wagoon worked best for me, with a carquest fan controller assembly. The transmission will fit. Where the tranny bolts to the crossmember needs modified. Elongate the 2 holes so the trans can slide back as far as possible. I also enlongated the tranny mount on the trans so it would slide back to, but this was not a necessity. The plate that trims the trans to the interior I simply flipped around and re screwed it to the trans tunnel. It was a perfect match. I recommend a new boot obviously. The hardbody uses staggered engine mounts. When You set your KA into place I suggest puttin a nice 1/4 to 3/8: piece of wood between the oil pan and cross member. You will see the mount on the pass side is very close. You just need to cut it vertically and re tack it to gether since this engine requires a taller mount. The drivers side also needs to be cut vertically, but the bottom half that bolts to the frame is going to need to move back approx 1/2". There are many ways to do this, I used some thick angle Iron to attatch to the mount to achieve this. This is a very simple operation that requires welding. This part, and the exhaust are about all you will need a welder for ( I welded the top half of my original shifter to the hb trans lower half to keep that stock look and also for making brackets for the fuel tank. depending on your taste you may or may not need to do this) At this point the drivetrain is virtually in. If you are getting your driveline lengthened, double check your measurements. A bell swap would negate the necessity for this. Now all of the rest of the plumbing id up to you guys, there are many radiators that will work, many cooling fan assy's too. Be imaginative, be patient and make it look good. The best swaps, even if not all painted and dolled up, are the ones where you can see the time was taken to do it right. cluterfucking it all together and going back to "clean it up later" probably won't ever happen, and you will not only have something that looks like ass, but will be prone to failure. Take your time and enjoy the added power, style and fuel economy of the KA powerplant! this is all i need right nothing else Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 this is all i need right nothing else UMMMM thats as comprehensive as my memory is Jason...............u may need a friend who knows some stuff too......but you got him right here! Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 you know i am going to take you up on that Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Well, since the school year has started I am bogged down with 12 hour days, and have lots of home projects going so not a lot of time to do anything with the truck except DRIVE it! Let me tell you, the power.with this swap in incredible. I have no problem blasting around anyone now, not needing a quarter mile run up like I did with the l20. Now I have a little over two thousand miles on the engine swap, and everyday it runs a little better. Now that the engine is getting loosened up, my mileage is too! Just got it back from a trip to spokane and cranked 32 mpg! A helluva lot better than the 21. I averaged going to caNdy! I hope to do a few more datto runs before the snow flies, but we shall see. Not sure if I will get the bodywork cranked out this winter or wait till spring. Anything that happens will get detailed oics put here first. Keep up the pace on your builds guys! Just a hair over 8 months till canby! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Very Impressive Mileage Man !!! :cool: Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Very Impressive Mileage Man !!! :cool: Thanks! I am very stoked about it. When dad was rollin this drivetrain in his hardbody he would get up to 35, i think that is acheivable, especially since thr 620 is lighter and more aerodynamic than a hardbody, but I also still like the sound of the intake a tad too much, so I am not exactly driving with economy in mind. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Just got it back from a trip to spokane, didnt stop in to see Eric, and cranked 32 mpg! A helluva lot better than the 21. I averaged going to caNdy! I hope to do a few more datto runs before the snow flies, but we shall see. Not sure if I will get the bodywork cranked out this winter or wait till spring. Anything that happens will get detailed oics put here first. ^Fixed Keep up the pace on your builds guys! Just a hair over 8 months till canby! I LIKE THIS.... A LOT!!! Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 I can't believe I haven't posted in this. I feel like such a heel, Bill. I know I've read it. And I know I've posted in A thread about your truck. Anyways... Never too late to join the party! Looks/sounds awesome. :thumbup: That is all. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 ^Fixed I LIKE THIS.... A LOT!!! Eric. Glad you fixed it. sad thing is most of my trips have been up to north spokane, so I blast over on hwy 2 and come in division at the Y.......I havent been to coeur d alene in over a month with the truck........I will ring you up next time I am down that way for certain! Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 I can't believe I haven't posted in this. I feel like such a heel, Bill. I know I've read it. And I know I've posted in A thread about your truck. Anyways... Never too late to join the party! Looks/sounds awesome. :thumbup: That is all. Thanks Flatcat. I didn't realize till now that you hadn't. I really wish I had more money and time to get rolling on more stuff and keep this thread rolling at the pace it was, but with school starting I am busy busy. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Thanks Flatcat. I didn't realize till now that you hadn't. I really wish I had more money for gas to bring you that's L20B that rusting away in my garage. Yeah, buddy! No. Gorgeous truck. I just got a financial aid check in the mail that was 5 times bigger than I was expecting. My Datsun actually gets to have some work done. Fix brakes, lower it, hopefully some wheels. Bills first though. I made sure wifey knew that some of this money was getting spent on truck. No questions or excuses. :cool: Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Oh yea bud! Too bad the l is on its way to maryland! Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Oh yea bud! Too bad the l is on its way to maryland! Bastard. It's good. I'll just drag ya this way when it's KA time. You've got a couple of years still. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Not certain what kind of photobucket dickery has screwed up the oics in my thread....I need to fix this. I really hate wintertime right now......no datsun driving, no datsun projects. Just biding my time till CanDy 12'. Hope everyone is having a great winter! Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Glad your still around. Try use.com. its free and I havnt had any problems with them yet. Hopefully see ya at Canby Quote Link to comment
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