new guy with a 620

[moparvwfreak]

well i drove ti today and it pinged BAD so when i got home i adjusted the timing back to about 8* and itr stopped pinging. so HOPEFULLY that solved most of my issues with that. i also ran some carb cleaner down the carb and it seemed to free up the throttle plates a bit. it should be good to go now.

[moparvwfreak]

drove ti all over hells half acre today. ran like a top! had one curious thing happen though. my entire air cleaner came OFF the carb. i have never had that happen before. other than that and a little hesitation at startup when cold it ran beautifully.

[Cuts metal like mad]

gratz bro, glad to hear it. :thumbsup:

[moparvwfreak]

I am very pleased with how she's runnin. The only thing that bugs me is the air filter housing popping off the carb. Happened to me TWICE today. The screw clamp and sleave idea sucks ass on this design. I would rather have it set like a domestic. The air cleaner housing screws right down onto the carb not with a sleeve adapter. I am almost ready to ditch the factory housing and go small chrome after market. It might give me a little more room to work also but suck more warm/hot air in.

[moparvwfreak]

got my new (used) seats in. man are they comfy! tomorrow is the true test of how they feel. i have to drive to seattle to sling a few parts so i am gonna take the datto. i also fixed my passenger armrest. the u clip that the front screw goes into had fallen off the door. no big crimp it back tight and put it back on the door. now my armrest works right.

 

OH and i found my water leak into the truck. its NOT the vapor barriers, rear window or any seal. its leaking in at the joint where teh back of the cab meets the floor. on the outside there is a lip that protrudes out from the back of the cab twards teh back. well that had been holding water and rusted that section of hte cab out. so now when it rains, the water just pours right in. any ideas on how to fix that WITHOUT major work???

[Cuts metal like mad]

how big is the hole?

[]2eDeYe]

Pic's?

[moparvwfreak]

as soon as the weather gets better i will be updating my pics. as for the size of the hole its not to big. just big enough to be a pain. as said i will take some pics when the weather is better.

[mike]

Call some concrete refinishing stores and ask if they sell a product by sonneborn called NP1. Its a type of caulk used to seal up the seams in concrete buildings and is super sticky and has like a 300% stretch rate when dry. it shouldnt be more than 5 bucks a tube. Clean up the rust and spray some rustoleum or something on there to keep it from spreading as fast and glue a piece of metal or plastic over the hole, or if it is a little hole just caulk it in. This stuff also works awesome for tub and shower surrounds...

 

It takes about 2 days to dry but it will last longer than the truck if you do it right. use denatured alcohol for cleanup... buy it before you start youll need it.

Good luck.

[moparvwfreak]

i'll take a look into that. its not a big hole at all. it looks liek the panels jsut seperated due to rust. so not that big at all. maybe the length of a standard pencil? if not smaller. i just ahte doing this kind of stuff.

[moparvwfreak]

weather broke and i was able to take a couple pics. the new seats and the spot where its leaking. the pics will show where its leaking at.

 

[mike]

wire wheel, rustoleum, and NP1... it wont kill the rust but it'll definitely stop the water issues. If you can get to both sides(in and out) it would protect it from rusting out more for quite a while.

[moparvwfreak]

when i can i will be doing alot of rust repair. i was thinking more along the lines of some POR-15 for sealing the rust thats already there that i cant get at with the wire wheel. i will also be looking into the NP1. is that something i could get at like Lowes or would i have to hit a concrete supply place???

 

and on a good note, i got the truck to idle properly once warm!!!! it was a mal-adjusted BCDD. also tweaked the idle a bit so now it works liek a freaking champ! still havent tried starting on a hill yet since adjusting some stuff but i will later tonight.

[mike]

Ive looked at lowes, home depot, ace... havent seen it. Check out concrete supply stores or I found it online here. I dont know how to add a hyperlink, cut and paste if it doesnt work.

 

http://www.dhcsupplies.com/store/p/2-Sonolastic-NP1-Sealant.html

 

shipping might be cheaper than gas and definitely quicker than looking around. If youre planning on repairing this area later its going to be fun getting this stuff off of there. Think really really stretchy liquid nails that sticks about a million times better.

 

I was going to try and repair my door seals on my 620 with it, and I know it will work to glue down hood supports too... The only downfall to this product is that cleanup is a bitch and you cant work/shape it as easily as regular silicon... Denatured alcohol helps with both.

[moparvwfreak]

Alrighty then. I will check into it and see if I can find it locally. For now though I am just gonna clean up the ruxt and throw something there to keep water out. What I am not sure of as yet. I want to be able to do the job properly when funding becomes available.

[moparvwfreak]

well i just got finished replaceing yet ANOTHER adjuster. drivers front. now the brakes work REALLY good. still need ot adjust them a bit more but at least i have a nice FIRM pedal instead of one thatfeels like a limp rag. most likely sunday i will finish adjusting them so it works totally right but for now it'll get me to seattle and back with no worries.

[moparvwfreak]

later today, sunday the 7th, i am thinking about maybe rewiring the headlights on my truck. IF i do i will make sure to take pics and post a how to on the subject. doing this SHOULD take a big load off the headlight fuses on our trucks and hopefully stop the fuseboxes from melting through.

[moparvwfreak]

well i wasn't able to find my stuff to do the HL relays today, BUT i did install a long overdue part. i just happen to have had a 2.5" Sunpro II tach sitting in another project truck and snagged it. swichable input calibration so i just switched from 8 cyl to 4 cyl. i used the ilumination post for the clock, which i didn't have anyway, to iluminate it. ground to the fuse box bracket, tapped into the bottom left fuse, cold side, for power and ran the new lead out tot he neg side of the coil. works damn good although it doesn't match the rest. white face. oh well. it works thats all that maters. now i can see what i am shifting at which i like. and see how many revs i ppull at 80 :D

[lynchfourtwenty]

with my truck the way it sits 80mph is like 4800-5000rpms thats with the 4spd tho.. believe it or not i dont think i've ever takin it above 5000rpms in 4th gear.. im puttin a 5spd in soon thank god my speedo doesnt work so im not %100 positive on that.. im just using to driving by tach, well not really cause the trucks been sittin a while im going to have to re learn my speeds but im sure its like riding a bike..

[moparvwfreak]

well i have a 4spd so thats good to know. havent gotten above 50 yet so i dunno what that'll be. still having carb issues though. after cruising if i hit the clutch and let off the gas it still wants to idle at 1500-2000 RPM. but if i just lightly tap the gas, not even enough to make a blip on the tach it goes right down to idle at 800 rpm like it should. this is REALLY starting to piss me off. i have tweaked the carb, adjusted the accel pump rod to give a touch more spring tension on return, which it now has some better acceleration, adjusted the timing, pretty much everything short of a seafoam treatment. which might help but the wife has not OK'ed that as of yet. she ok'ed me getting the Ubolts i need to drop the rear but i took my kid out for lunch instead. which she thought was good to. so yeah. tach is in adn working beautifully. if anyone though can give me fairly accurate MPHRPM #s that would be great. i am beguining to think my speedo is off. it just seems weird 20mph, if that, in 1st at 5000 rpm???

[lynchfourtwenty]

i would say thats pretty close... 1st is really short maybe not 20 but maybe 25-30?? not sure but i do know that 20mph in 3rd gear at 2000rpms is 20 for me.. if i remember correctly.. god its been too long! also what about using a weber carb?? or are u already i forget.. that seems like the way to go tho mine works great

 

 

oh by the way when its REALLY REALLY HOT my truck does that high idle shit to.. never really figured it out but it did stop for the most part after fuckin with a bunch of shit.. but still on super hot days it will doit.. but a bump of the gas always brings it down

[moparvwfreak]

nah stock Hitachi POS. ended up trading my weber for some parts i needed to get this bucket-o-bolts abck on the road. but hey. it all worked out. hell it may just eb the heat who knows. it really didn't start doing this till it got hot. when i brought it home in april it idled ok, not perfect but ok and low. went out the other day to price out a new weber and it was like $400 for the kit for my truck. damn expencive!!!! but thats through my local import shop so it will be more as they dont normally deal with datsun. mostly VW.

 

all in all though i am very pleased with how it runs. i have a few minor issues still to work out but all in all no worries. i found i can get NEW floor pans through NIssanparts.cc for $68 plus shipping each side, plus the back of the cab wall, front of the bed, new side emblems, and a few other parts. i might just have to hit them up when i go to do my floors, cab back and bed front.

[lynchfourtwenty]

keep your eyes peel'd on craigslist or even on here for webers.. used ones are by far less expensive.. rebuilds are easy!!

[moparvwfreak]

yeah i got my last one here for $50 but like a dumbass i traded it. but i got my truck working so maybe it wasn't all bad.

[lynchfourtwenty]

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/830575556.html

 

theres a weber for $35 needs linkage and a rebuild from what it looks like.. great deal