moparvwfreak Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 good deal BUT its about 200 miles from me if not more. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 that sux he's right near me but im broke.. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 lol! it happens. i is broke myself. so i know hte feeling. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 spent this noon time adjusting the front brakes, lubing the adjuster on the drivers side, and installing some better shocks all the way around. the ones i had i think were a set of Easy Riders installed in 1975!!!!! owners manual shows when they were installed. to the tune of $38.00. i compressed them so i could get em out, adn they still havent decompressed. i think they are shot!!!! all but one came out easy though. one of the rears, the lower mounting stud on the shock its self SNAPPED on me. thank god i had new-ish hardware to put the new-ish shocks on. thanks ]2eDeYe!!!!!! soon enough i will be swapping my front suspension. just need the fundage for the upper control arms and any wear items i need, ball joints, bushings, pads, rotors bearings, seals, yadda yadda yadda. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 Could be those old shocks are oil shocks (won't self rebound). Saying that though, shocks should really be replaced every few years or so. Glad your getting use outta that stuff :D Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 oh yeah. they were so crusty it wasn't even funny. now it actually ahs some bounce to it insted of just, ummm, nothing??? i hit some nasty bumps going to moms place, seattle, and it feels like a rock. hopefully i can test it out on saturday headin out ot the BBQ. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 yea the suspension on these trucks suffers even more when lowerd.. i mean obviously cause that kinda happens with all cars unless done properly.. stiff suspension has its purpose an so does soft suspension.. i hate goin over rail road tracks in my truck.. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 yea the suspension on these trucks suffers even more when lowerd.. i mean obviously cause that kinda happens with all cars unless done properly.. stiff suspension has its purpose an so does soft suspension.. i hate goin over rail road tracks in my truck.. so do i. thats why i figured, since i was in there anyway, to replace them with the good used ones i had. plus it gave me something to do since the kid and the wife aren't home. and it helped my truck to be better. oh and i found out yesterday that my tach inside is 100 RPM higher than what my tachdwell meter says. no biggy. i am not worried about 100 rpm. and the tach light, is the brightest in my dash :lol: Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 the tach light, is the brightest in my dash :lol: mine too.. well that and the oil pressure an temp gauge Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 i need to install my oil pressure and voltage guages soon. i will also be installing an analog clock using the factory clock power wire. :D i like to be able to see what my cars are doing. voltage isn't an issue to install but the oil pressure is. i need to find one a sensor that works well with my VDO guages. i ahve a couple sets that i can use, 2 VW and one Opal (unknown model), i need to find the proper oil pressure sender. i will most likely use the VW gauges in the Opal housing as its form fit to a dash. otherwise i have to figure out a console to put em into. oh well. its an easy job to do as i have done this before in my wifes 79 rabbit. no problem. just a matter of doing it. all i really need is the sender, and the T so i can have my light AND the guage like in my wifes car. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 hmm.. i just used the stuff that came with my gauges.. little brass fitting screwed in the block run the lil hose type thing to the gauge an bam it works Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 well mine are electric. as i said before they came out of other cars which makes my job a little harder to do when i have to find parts. i have some mechanical ones but i would rather run electrics. i have had good luck with them. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 OK NOW I AM STARTING TO GET PISSED OFF AT THIS TRUCK!!!! sorry i need to vent! clean the carb since that was where my sticky throttle was. wokred great for 2 days and now its doing it again. i know its Weber time but i cant afford to do that right now. also i REALLY need to replace the rad againas i am loosing coolant somewhere, and it just doesn't seem to have the power it did before. i have readjusted the timing back to 8* so hopefully that will help plus its been a bear to start in the morning. also recently, my wife can confirm it, i have been having a tough time getting it into reverse. it will grind if i dont hit the clutch a few times. i know, i know, its a 35 yr old truck. i cant expect perfection. ok heres what i am thinking. i know i am going to have to do a clutch soon due to the grinding issue in reverse and other gears. so i figure if i am gonna have the trans out why donti jsut swap motors and do a 5spd swap? but which motor should i use? L-18 or L-20?? i want good mileage, ease of installation (hence the L motor options), and a little more power. now dont get me wrong, i like my little L-16 but it just doesn't seem to have the umph that i am used to. my rabbit pickup has a 1.7l and that thing hauls ass! this datsun just seems a little slow. also what 5spd trans should i use? there again ease of installation is a must! i have the short tail 4spd right now and i really dont feel like having to modify. i would like a 5spd that would bolt in and require no modification but i doubt thats possible. ideas??? i wish i could sell my caprice. but in this time of "fuel shortages" its not going to be easy to do. i might just have to keep it around and sell one or two of my rabbits. that might fund my datsun projects. MIGHT being the key word. as it sits right now i can drive ti but it sucks so much fuel it seems i am filling it EVERY DAY! i love driving it and would like another one someday. something where parts are a littel easier to come by. like a late model 620. who knows if i can sell my caprice i will get a KC. if not then i wont. its that simple. SOMEONE BUY MY CAPRICE!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 well i have been having some MORE carb issues. the truck now idles at 2000 and if i go to kick it down, it brings the idle UP to 3000! i have adjusted the mix down a little and brought the idle up, repositioned one of the srings for the accel pump so HOPEFULLY it will stop this sh!t. still ahve a bunch of work to do but i just want this truck to run right. also i have been hearing this hollow knock recently. and it does rise and fll with RPMs but doesn't get louder. it just seems that it goes away after about 3000 but then the exhaust is so loud i cant hear it at that point. when i checked it today it sounded like it was comming from the #2 cyl. at first i just thought it was a loose valve adjuster but i listened for the tapping at the VC and it wasn't there. its lower below the head. i am thinking its either a wrist pin or, hopeing not, a rod bearing starting to go south. and to top everything off, i broke my underhood light. i am not a happy camper. enough about this though, for now. you dont come here to read about me bitchin about my truck. on the lighter side i have fixed the bend in my hood. yes the one I put in it by being stupid. now teh hood and fender have the same shape. that is always a good thing. now to align it better, if thats possible. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 good luck with lining up that hood :P mines tweaked a bit to an i had to modify the hinges a little bla bla i got a thread on here somewhere about it.. anyway hope ya figure out that engine problem, maybe it is indeed time for some much needed maitenance Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 yeah. a 20w50 oil change with some Lucas will hopefully do the trick. i have a bit of maintnance to do on this rig. tune up and an oil change should take care of alot of things i hope. just no $$ to do anything right now. i tweak wiht what i can but it takes $$ to do most things. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 very true, i know that all to well myself Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 i will have to look but i might jut do a quick oil change tomorrow if i can find my oil. might have to use 15w40 and Lucas. and of course a FL1A FORD filter, since i have a spare for my Marquis :D wouldn't take more than 10 min or so to do. time to haul out the book and check capacities. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 Mopar, I was having high idling on my weber in my 521. It would start off fine, but the idle would go up as it warmed up and I couldn't kick it down and often when I tried it would idle even higher. Turned out to be as the metal got hotter the throttle linkage would stick. So I took a sping from a desk lamp and ran it from the filter cover to the linkage, and that totally took care of it. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 Mopar, I was having high idling on my weber in my 521. It would start off fine, but the idle would go up as it warmed up and I couldn't kick it down and often when I tried it would idle even higher. Turned out to be as the metal got hotter the throttle linkage would stick. So I took a sping from a desk lamp and ran it from the filter cover to the linkage, and that totally took care of it. you got any pics of how it was set? i will ahve to look and see what i can do about it. this issue is really pissing me off and i need to deal with it. now! Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 well i got the oil changed finally. 20w50. no longer makin noise. so hopefully it'll last a bit longer so i can find a good rad and a new motor for it. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted October 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 well its back makin noise and the idle is REALLY rough. now it doesn't even idle at 2000, it idles at 3000 no matter what. plus i smell fuel every time i get out of the truck. i am starting to get scared that it wont last much longer. to top everything off sometimes its a bitch to get into reverse. it grinds going inot reverse and sometimes 1st is not the easiest to get into either. that could be air in the clutch system. but i dunno. maybe a bleed would help. also its been backfireing like mad on decel. doesn't matter if its just to slow down to make a corner or a full stop. backfireing like mad. it sounds cool as hell but its not supposed to do that. ideas???? it seems like i have to check the brakes again. they are getting REALLY soft again. but when i back up it seems like i have the brakes on. its weird. i cant wait to get disks up front. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted October 3, 2008 Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 well its back makin noise and the idle is REALLY rough. now it doesn't even idle at 2000, it idles at 3000 no matter what. plus i smell fuel every time i get out of the truck. i am starting to get scared that it wont last much longer. to top everything off sometimes its a bitch to get into reverse. it grinds going inot reverse and sometimes 1st is not the easiest to get into either. that could be air in the clutch system. but i dunno. maybe a bleed would help. also its been backfireing like mad on decel. doesn't matter if its just to slow down to make a corner or a full stop. backfireing like mad. it sounds cool as hell but its not supposed to do that. ideas???? it seems like i have to check the brakes again. they are getting REALLY soft again. but when i back up it seems like i have the brakes on. its weird. i cant wait to get disks up front. man hard times suck dude :( is it actually Back firing, or do you have a exhaust leak an its making that "race car straight pipe" sound... my pipe is broken a few inchs after the header so i got the race truck sound goin on.. fun but annoying at the same time, i almost made an old asian lady drive off the road cause i stomped on my peddle in the lane next to her Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 3, 2008 Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 I'd get the compression tester out... :( Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted October 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 man hard times suck dude :( is it actually Back firing, or do you have a exhaust leak an its making that "race car straight pipe" sound... my pipe is broken a few inchs after the header so i got the race truck sound goin on.. fun but annoying at the same time, i almost made an old asian lady drive off the road cause i stomped on my peddle in the lane next to her only on decel. no other time. as far as i know the exhaust is good. half of it is newish. 2eDeYe;85477'']I'd get the compression tester out... :( yeah, gonna have to check it again. anyone have a good L18 and a 5spd CHEAP????!!!!! Quote Link to comment
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