Boaty's KA24DE 2DR

[Boaty]

From what I've read, it applies to 16v's as well.

Manual requires VSS, automatics don't require the VSS and have a higher rev-limter. (Odd, huh?)

 

I'm taking the down-time with a grain of salt, there are plenty of other things to get accomplished in the mean time.

I'm going to start wiring up the electric fans tomorrow, after I figure out a suitable temp switch. I have two options with this radiator, a.) run the stock lower-radiator hose piece, but have wiring over by the hoses.. yuck. Or, install a temp switch in the drain plug fo the radiator which is the same size as a VW temp sender. Then I can run the wires straight down under the rad back up the opposite side, to the relays. And this setup lets me eliminate that pile of shit capillary tube/bulb setup I used before.. think it was a universal Hayden type..

 

I wish I could afford a spool of expandable sleeving, I would re-do the entire engine harness... another time I guess!

I hate convoluted tubing/split vinyl loom. It works, protects everything great.. but also houses moisture and never lets it out, it's kind of bulky. But it works, just doesn't agree with my OCD. I don't want to pay small-roll price, but I don't need a thousand feet of the shit, haha.

[Draker]

Yeah I'm also thinking about another issue un-related to the MAF.

 

This engine has an EGR delete.

And I have a California ECM.

 

It keeps throwing code 35/EGT

Somebody told me this would cause it to go into limp mode, but it says nothing about this in the FSM.

 

Is that a possibility?

 

@ Indy - I am considering getting a new ECU just for the sake of having a spare ECU incase of "shit happens".

Any S13 KA24DE automatic trans/federal emissions ECU would work. And, worst case scenario, if I buy new stuff and it doesn't fix it, well, I have new stuff and not old stuff. Right? :D

 

Should be able to put a resistor in place of the EGR sensor to get rid of that code. I believe I used an 8k-12k ohm resistor to fix this on my Z32. Different application, same deal though.

[68Datsun510]

I'll just leave these here...

 

[68Datsun510]

[Boaty]

Oh, WORD! I totally forgot about all those pictures!

 

So update for today.. holy mother of Odin.

 

So, decided to get something done since I have to wait on a check before I can buy the wiring for my fans. So picked up a buddy today and he helped me flush out the coolant system since I haven't done that yet. Holy, shit. I've never in my entire life, ever seen so much rust come out of one engine. I've done a coolant flush on at least 2 dozen cars in my time, and a good number of those were old engines/junkyard engines/not maintained engines... I literally shat a brick. I want you to think of cherry wood stain. That's the color of what came out of the KA24 today... I flushed it over 10 times empty to full, heated up, drained... and she is still puking rust little by little.

 

So I'm going to do it a few more times and run a cleaner/flush kit through it before I laden it down with coolant. Good thing, no leaks! And she actually runs a bit better now after getting her up to a high temp a few times.. really got the juices flowing. Me gusta. The no leak thing made me happy, 13# cap gave before anything else did, so that's one good thing.

 

I'm extremely anal about things.. this eased my pain today, haha.

 

I have a feeling I'll be breaking out the buffer on my radiator in the future though... I have rust stains all over everything now. But hey, shit happens.

 

Now back to reminiscing over old pictures :)

 

FWIW, the 2nd and 3rd picture from your second-to-last post was taken @ Chrome Ridge, about 15-16 miles off the nearest 2-lane road. That was an amazingly fun day.

If you found those pics, the videos should be in the same area yo!

[I'm BLUE]

Well done on the documentation !

 

Before i run a motor that is pulled/swapped/changed ...

 

*I pop the freeze-plugs ...

*unhook all coolant hoses ...

*take out the thermostat ...

*open the block drain ...

 

Then stick a pressure washer every which way for as long as neccessary ...

 

Works very well after words! More so then chemical or coolant flushes ... except "agitation" machines at your local auto shop.

[Boaty]

Un. F*cking. Believable.

 

So, yeah. Apparently I had the MAF sensor installed backwards... I was looking at spare parts I have... found this adapter ring inside the air filter.

 

Huzzah. I feel like the biggest n00b right now. Haha.

 

Now to track down vac. leaks and double-check timing and all that fancy shiznat.

 

[bonvo]

lol herp derp moment

[Boaty]

Facccccccck.

 

So, it runs pretty good.

 

Then, because Murphy is a heartless bitch, him and his law... I find another vacuum leak. This time, it's a crack in the manifold where a brass plug was used to plug the stock brake booster port. Looks like the plug might have been the incorrect thread/size, the allen head part was stripped out and there was brass shavings coming out the threads.........................

 

So, I have to yank the intake and plenum off and go find some place to fix it some time this week. *sigh*

 

I am now into a double-digit number of set backs I've had thus far.

[bonvo]

or you could just jb weld the plug into place eliminating the vacuum leak

[Boaty]

The plug is cross-threaded into the manifold. I tried to remove it, thinking along the lines you are. No such luck, I couldn't get the thing out with a pipe wrench, vice grips, with or without heat and PBlaster. It's in there nice and gnar-like.

 

So... just going to have to bring it down to >insert machine shop here< and have them extract it and weld up the crack, and fill the port in.

Or something.. I'll see what I have to work with once the top end is out.

[bonvo]

so leave it in there and jb weld it lol cheap and easy

[Boaty]

I'm way too anal for that haha.

 

I don't think I could get it to stick, either... I couldn't even get in to apply the JB with it in, and if it's out may as well do it the right way, ya?

[Farmer]

That is sounding great. Is there an exhaust hook up?

 

I should come over one of these days and check it out

 

Larry

[Boaty]

Nah it's straight exhaust.

 

I was really hoping to drive it to the meet tomorrow evening but, no exhaust shop is open on Saturday in GP - and I have more work to do.

 

Hit me up this week some time man, I can tell Brandon (siqx20) to come over if he's off.

Maybe Sunday?

[Boaty]

So, JB welded up the intake. If it ends up failing, by that point I'll have the other manifold/plenum 'did' so it'll just be an early excuse to swap over. No big dealio.

Fixed the leak just the same. Just... I'm anal and it's not settling well with me.

 

But, got the intake all nice and installed and such, I need to go through and figure out the timing again however. I did it exactly as the FSM states, set it on the far right (20*BTDC) @ idle, TPS disconnected.

Soon as I plug the TPS in it jumps up a mad amount of RPM for like 10 seconds, then falls back to a super-low RPM (will verify with tach when I have a tach, this week). After it settles back to idle, timing ends up being between -5 and TDC...

 

Tomorrow.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Its almost there Steve!

:thumbup:

been lurking..

[Boaty]

[I'm BLUE]

If JB-WELD does not worky ...

 

Aluma-weld rod + map gas = less anal Boaty lolz ;)

[68Datsun510]

I see what you did there....

[bonvo]

lol sneaky troll is sneaky

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

If JB-WELD does not worky ...

 

Aluma-weld rod + map gas = less anal Boaty lolz ;)

 

ANON!

[Uber Deaf One]

Nice O-Reileys filter ;) I read that KAs don't like short intakes.... which is why mine is weird. Curious as to how well yours will run.

[Boaty]

Well, it was this filter - or a K&N for twice the price, same element pretty much. Visibly I can't tell much of a difference except for color.

 

That's odd - I've heard conflicting stories as well. I've seen a lot of intake 'theory', we'll see how this pans out.

I would think the longer intake would have something to do with how the air moves around that 90 degree bend, not so much the length. There's already an intake plenum to give it velocity, think of a velocity stack on a carb. I wouldn't think there would be much of any measurable difference, really. As long as you have good air in and good air through, it's still good air.

 

What I don't understand of course, is people running massive cold air intakes thinking it's going to do massive amounts of good, when it all has to go through a 2" opening on the MAF....

 

Over on Nico I read a couple of threads saying it'll give you better throttle response, which kind of makes sense (less distance traveled theory). I dunno the science of it all, the internet is just one giant butt-dyno when it comes to 240sx's.... very rarely do you see anything dyno-proven (with anything, really) unless you're boosting - then everybody is willing to share their experience.

 

FWIW, if I could FIT an intake over to the hot-side of the engine bay (driver's side) then I probably would have. I *really* don't have much room up front with how everything is sitting. I'm definitely not satisfied with it, and will likely end up buying or having a set of engine brackets modified to reposition the engine. It's far enough forward that the inner tie rod end on the passenger side kisses the slave cylinder at full-lock right. Barely.

[dennis]

That's odd - I've heard conflicting stories as well. I've seen a lot of intake 'theory', we'll see how this pans out.

I would think the longer intake would have something to do with how the air moves around that 90 degree bend, not so much the length. There's already an intake plenum to give it velocity, think of a velocity stack on a carb. I wouldn't think there would be much of any measurable difference, really. As long as you have good air in and good air through, it's still good air.

 

What I don't understand of course, is people running massive cold air intakes thinking it's going to do massive amounts of good, when it all has to go through a 2" opening on the MAF....

 

Over on Nico I read a couple of threads saying it'll give you better throttle response, which kind of makes sense (less distance traveled theory). I dunno the science of it all, the internet is just one giant butt-dyno when it comes to 240sx's.... very rarely do you see anything dyno-proven (with anything, really) unless you're boosting - then everybody is willing to share their experience.

 

FWIW, if I could FIT an intake over to the hot-side of the engine bay (driver's side) then I probably would have. I *really* don't have much room up front with how everything is sitting. I'm definitely not satisfied with it, and will likely end up buying or having a set of engine brackets modified to reposition the engine. It's far enough forward that the inner tie rod end on the passenger side kisses the slave cylinder at full-lock right. Barely.

 

From my understanding you need laminar air flow into the maf. To get laminar airflow you need a lengthened straight section. If you have an immediate bend into the MAF the air will not be laminar/smooth and straight. Basically you do not want turbulent air at the maf or it will give you incorrect readings. One thing I can tell you for sure is that I do not know how long of a section you need to make your airflow laminar.

 

Many cars have a honeycomb cross section that is directly in front of the maf that gives you laminar air flow. This is what it looks like:

 

 

After looking online I noticed that the 240sx MAF does have a laminar honeycomb. The only other logical explanation would be that nissan designed the intake to be so long for either desired tune/detune or intake air noise reduction.