Boaty's KA24DE 2DR

[Siqx20]

Lol

[68Datsun510]

You have a video converter???

[Boaty]

I have a life converter, too. Wanna see it?

[Boaty]

After a bit of troubleshooting, I fixed a fuel pump relay issue I had. I was unaware that the ECU switches ground, not positive. I thought it just had a standard ol' hookup but it didn't. I had to jump 30 & 86 to +12V, and remove the ground (which is fed via ECU). That stole an hour or so of my time scraching my head, lol.

 

So, I got everything to crank over and all that fancy stuff. However, I have no spark. I'm going to confirm that I have adequate grounding at the coil (S13 = external coil), and try again.

 

In the mean time, I found out my fuel filter set up (GM) actually leaks. This is due to the fact that stock Chevrolet lines use O-rings, where as the brass adapter fittings have no provisioning for this. This caused it to leak like a siv, even with teflon tape and making sure it's tight. It simply won't work, so I'm scratching that cool idea off and I will just be running a Z32/300ZX filter instead.

 

I edited my post concerning the fuel filter idea to reflect my findings!

 

In addition, my fuel sending unit started leaking like a siv all at the same time.

 

THEN, the bottom of my fuel tank started leaking from all the spot-welds made to install the baffle for the fuel pump.

 

1_allofmyrage_extended_version.mpg

 

So back to square one with the fuel tank. Taking it in for a full repair and seal. I believe I'll be using a 240z fuel sending unit with a shortened arm to replace the unobtanium 510 sedan sender. This will be sender #3... never going with a used one again! I believe the ethanol in today's gas is eating the plastic bits. I've heard of 2 other people with the exact same problem now, and I'm sure there are others.

 

Oh did I mention I'm ordering my speedhut gauges this weekend? ^_^

[68Datsun510]

My sender started leaking too... I swapped in my nearly new one from the 68 i kept.

[Rustina 510]

I just read this whole build. Really great work and dedication dude. Makes me motivated to wrench on my wagon.

 

I am also getting geared up for a Ka swap but just a single slammer. They are one of the simplest efi motors I've ever read up on, and they are pretty dam cheap.

 

So now I have learned a few things about what I'll need to get and do to my 69wagoon so thanks man.

 

One thing... More pics.

[Boaty]

Yeah I'm gonna have to bust out the DSLR to get any good pictures. The lens on my phone is kind of foggy for some reason.. doesn't *look* foggy but the pictures come out foggy regardless of settings. Think it's a phone dealio.

 

But yeah I plan on completely re-vamping this thread and consolidating all the info into the first post once she is up and running. I've had a lot of people ask me questions about part numbers and such and I don't have an answer for them. I left all the PN's on the parts I bought if there was a sticker just for this reason.

 

Thanks for the props! Really hope to get her sorted and running soon. Was a real bummer when I went outside to start her up and she just puked fuel all over my trunk... and I need to figure out why I have no spark. Everything that the harness has is correctly hooked up now, but for some reason I'm not getting any power to the coil so I'm gonna need to go back through and see if I missed something... now that the weather has finally turned nice (actually too hot now, haha) I'll get some more work done.

 

There is no better demotivator than a puddle under your car, pouring down wind, and not having a garage. I can get things done now and not be miserable, so here's to hoping for the best! I'll go get some new pictures for everybody soon.

[68Datsun510]

AYe, the weathers excellent. Get er done!

[Boaty]

Got my fuel tank back from the shop today. Had to patch up some pieces on the bottom where the baffle welds blew through. Patched, soldered, and then sealed.

Not sure on what he used to seal up the tank, doesn't look like anything I've seen before. But he said he's been using it for a couple of years and has never had any complaints about it - and he used it on his own vehicle. If there's ever a problemo, he will fix it for me.

 

 

Here's a shit-tastic pic of my brand spankin' new fuel assembly & fuel pump. Assembly is OEM Nissan, was a pretty penny. Pump is just an Airtex, but has a lifetime warranty. New fuel sock too (Why would anybody NOT buy a new fuel sock? 1, it's required for the warranty. 2, they are dirt cheap.. when I worked at the parts house I bought this from, we had lots of people buy new pumps and not a new fuel sock. It's like doing an oil change ever 3K miles 10 times and never changing the oil filter - some people's kids.)

[68Datsun510]

Looks like he detonated a tube of blue rtv in there, hope it works out!!!

[Boaty]

It's like this hard rubbery like compound. It's set up a considerable amount since yesterday, I'm going to give her another half-day to cure up before I put any gas in. Never hurts to let it set up some more!

 

Fuel tank is back in, pump hooked back up, she primes and is ready to start mind-f*cking me again. Supposed to be much warmer tomorrow and partly cloudy, should be good wrenching weather.

I'm gonna go through all the grounding on the engine and hook up another ground on the chassis in the trunk, clean up all the connectors on the engine side and hope for the best.

 

Remind me I need to buy a new 90 degree elbow for the intake... the current holes are in bastardly positions, you wouldn't believe the half-assed job we did of hooking up the IACV, there's like three pieces and parts from a leftover IACV haha. But for now she works, just need to get her to run and then I can start fiddling with all the other stuffs. :D

[Boaty]

Oh, and the 240z fuel sender works great, I just had to chop the arm, and take some length out.

 

If I had a TIG handy I would have just torched it together, maybe a little filler rod. But since I don't, I just chopped, wire-wheeled it, put it together with some vice grips and soldered them together. Strong enough that I can start to bend the arm and not break the solder joint, so it should be more than adequate.

 

Here's a couple of pictures.

 

 

 

BTW brand new OEM Nissan. Wish they made them for 510's, there are lots of Z-cars. Same resistance value as well.

[68Datsun510]

Is the second stub for a low gas light? LOL z people...

[Boaty]

Haha. Yeah apparently a Z tank has no ground. Weird, thought they were metal... oh well.

 

Yeah I'll likely run a ground just for that, too. :D

[68Datsun510]

How much total did you spend on your battery relocation?

[Boaty]

Not a horriblea mount, the cabling was the most expensive ($170 or so!)

The relocation plate I think was $90 or so, off eBay.

 

Military terminals were just hand change, like $6 each. The bushings were like $12 each or so. I'd have to dig up the paperwork to get you a total.

 

ANYWAYS BACK TO THE SHIT THAT IS COOL

 

THE COLD HEARTED BITCH RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Lol, Brown in the background making Brown noises (Siqx20).

 

Anyways she runs, got her heated up a bit and started fiddling with things.

 

One thing for sure, the timing was put together wrong, it is *way* off. Firing order is correct, but even fully retarded the timing marks are straight up on the crank pulley and 2" away from the marker on the case. So, I'm going to need to figure out what is up with that.

 

Second, she won't rev out, probably due to the timing issue. Can't really accomplish much until the timing is where it needs to be, so I'll have to pull the distributor and figure out wtf is going on with that. Hopefully that doesn't become too involved.. not looking forward to that.

 

ECU was throwing Air Flow Meter and Exhaust Gas Temp but I didn't have the car running very long and the MAF was unplugged.

 

 

Some oddities, is that if you try to rev it up it makes a loud knock, then just sputters and dies. Crank her back over, and she'll idle fine, just super rich and kind of rough. Once again, could be related to timing...

 

EIther way, the KA runs!

Now I just need somebody that knows KA's really well to magically show up at my house and give me a hand. I know nothing about these engines aside from what I've read on forums (which constantly contradict each other) and from FSM's on the net.

 

But SHE RUNS!

 

/stoked

/Ratsun Beer thrust

/fuckyea.jpg

 

http://youtu.be/esQ4uUqIWkk

[68Datsun510]

Ok, what did you do about injectors? I suggest you chack your oil NOW. Make sure its not full of gas like it did to me...

 

EGT will always be there, as i ditched the EGR system.

[Boaty]

Oil level is still where it was, so I assume it's not filling up. Kind of smelly, but then again all the blowby from the first start probably contributed to that.

 

Sigh.

 

She won't rev, runs pig rich. ECU is throwin' an AFM code.

Think I need to borrow a known good MAF to test mine...

 

Tomorrow will tell the story here. I need somebody that know's KA's really well to take a look-see.

[Boaty]

Well I didn't get a *lot* done today but I now have 4 votes for a MAF issue, and 2 votes that I have two bad MAF sensor's. ECU spits out Air Flow Meter codes with either ECU.

 

We're going to fake the ECU with a resistor to supply the correct idle voltage to see if it will come out of limp mode. If it does, then obviously the bad MAF theory is true. If not, then it's something else - back to the drawing board.

 

She runs great with the MAF disconnected, up to failsafe/limp mode rev limiter. Sounds great at idle as well.

 

I'm getting excited, I can't wait for this bitch to run right!

[68Datsun510]

I sent Gino your way as well, hope you get shit sorted out!

[INDY510]

.

My KA24DE would start and idle for 3 seconds then shut off ... ... ... but it would idle all day without the MAF plugged in

 

everyone said vacuum leak,,, or a bad MAF ..... got a used $80 MAF off ebay..... same problem ..... .. then got a used $40 ECU and it fixed it

 

 

 

The S13 KA24DE MAF plug has three wires: black = ground....... blk/wht = 12V + ........ white = sender wire

 

you can check your MAF with a muti-meter on the sender wire .... ... Key on: sender wire has ~ 0.22 volts ..... and jumps above 0.80 by lightly blowing air through the MAF ... . voltage should rise evenly with more air

 

[JakeWard]

Your timing sounds off, and you've already said it was. I know my S13 sounded like that when I did a headgasket and didn't set the cam timing correctly.

 

This is a good resource for that.

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CAM%20INSTALL%20INST%20FOR%20KA24DE.PDF

 

Pop the valvecover off

Turn the motor until TDC

Check the front cam lobes

Turn the motor again to TDC if the lobes aren't pointed away from eachother. (ie get to compression stroke)

....if the cams aren't right....

Set the cam timing perfectly and reassemble

re-stab the distributor

 

Should run awesome. Haha. If this is all redundant and you already have seen this, my bad. Trying to help.

[JakeWard]

Oh well never mind, I just decided to read. I just stopped at the video before.... Apparently you've already got it narrowed down to the MAF

[Boaty]

Yeah I'm also thinking about another issue un-related to the MAF.

 

This engine has an EGR delete.

And I have a California ECM.

 

It keeps throwing code 35/EGT

Somebody told me this would cause it to go into limp mode, but it says nothing about this in the FSM.

 

Is that a possibility?

 

@ Indy - I am considering getting a new ECU just for the sake of having a spare ECU incase of "shit happens".

Any S13 KA24DE automatic trans/federal emissions ECU would work. And, worst case scenario, if I buy new stuff and it doesn't fix it, well, I have new stuff and not old stuff. Right? :D

[68Datsun510]

The auto trans thing was only for 12v ones IIRC