Crashtd420 Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 I'm sure datsunmike has the picture showing the difference..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 (edited) Found a picture of the high volume one I'm using.... You can see the rotor in the hole... Edited June 1, 2023 by Crashtd420 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 Okay. I have 3 high-flow oil pumps! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 2, 2023 Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 10 hours ago, Doctoraudio said: Okay. I have 3 high-flow oil pumps! I'd use the Hitachi one.... I think I saw you had one... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 2, 2023 Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 If you are at TDC precisely, set by turning the engine clockwise and no backing up then this is no good and #2 notch will move the V to the right. It's essential that you turn engine to TDC without backing up. This will keep all the chain slack on the slack side and the tension side tight and give a proper reading. All other L series oil pumps... High volume pump. KA24E or DE from D21 Hardbody... Internal trochoid rotors are 13% longer... They have the same 55-60 PSI pressure but get up to full pressure at a lower RPM than the regular pumps. My well worn 620 L20B hot idled at 17 PSI. With no other change than a KA oil pump it then idled at 29 PSI. 3 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 2, 2023 Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 (edited) personallyI would call that timing set good what he has if set up already and espcially if its on number 1 already. then hes done for sure its just the components used. if anything slight advance is ok unless you have a photo of the crank position notch Edited June 2, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 Tore it down and re did it. Seems, I bumped it taking a picture! What do you think? it looks like the one in your picture! 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 This is how it looks so far. I squirted oil all over the engine. Let it sat for an hour! Came out a hour later and sprayed it with Mineral sprits. Then poured gas on it. Really, break fluid is my only real worry! 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 (edited) Don't know how I got over spray, on it? And this is not the right engine pulley. Edited June 3, 2023 by Doctoraudio BLA Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 Yesterday. I got down to the bare metal in some places. So, I sprayed over the area with some rust inhibitor automotive primer. Letting the stripper work, takes time. Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 Started cleaning this up this morning! Put about an hour in grinding away. Removed a lot of paint! Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 I think I am going to take this over to a buddie's and have him weld it for me. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 3, 2023 Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 1 hour ago, Doctoraudio said: Don't know how I got over spray, on it? And this is not the right engine pulley. Ok, before you go any further, if the pulley and pointer don't match, your cam timing and ignition timing can't be set properly. Have you verified TDC by measuring when the piston is at TDC? Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2023 5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Ok, before you go any further, if the pulley and pointer don't match, your cam timing and ignition timing can't be set properly. Have you verified TDC by measuring when the piston is at TDC? At this moment I have rotated the engine, so many times that it comes back to this point. Several times! I am also confident that it is at TDC. The timing marks are in the rite place. On #1 position on the Cam sprocket! At #1 position notch. The line on the cam boss is halfway to the left of the channel. 44 links down, is the engine crank dot. The crank pully, I have only has marks on one spot. And it lines up with the mark on the timing marker. Should I take a better picture of something? I will even make a video of the whole process. And I do know how to follow orders! I just need to know what they are!. I don't like to make mistakes! Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 #1 on cam sprocket Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 crank is at TDC #1 cylinder Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 Cam lobes at TDC. I can stick the feeler gauge under each one! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2023 Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 If at TDC compression stroke on #1, feeler gauge should fit under both #1 valves, intake on #2 and exhaust on #3. A good time to set the lash. If you turn the engine ONE revolution and bring up to TDC on the exhaust stroke the the feeler gauge will fit exhaust #2, intake #3 and both valves on #4. This is the fastest way to set the valves on a hot engine and not be constantly bumping the engine over with the starter. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 4, 2023 Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 So what was the comment abou tthe crank pulley not being the right one? Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2023 They are the same crank with the timing mark on the passenger side of the crank. While the crank was sitting in a hot box. (Cardboard box, with two 100watt light bulbs in it!) I used the second one the mount. I have two that are not coming from the L18 block I pulled. And the one on the L18. The timing mark is on the driver's side. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 6, 2023 Report Share Posted June 6, 2023 On 5/26/2023 at 12:20 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Drill the other side of the block. There's often a brass plug filling a hole that is already drilled. 👍 Right about here... 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 Yesterday, I triple checked all things again! And the engine is @ TDC at #1 position on the cam sprocket. I did some more sanding. After working in the yard making an, new vegetable garden. Today, I went and picked up a full head gasket kit! The water housing gasket, was going to not be here in a few days. SO I got the whole kit. And I needed another head gasket for the rat L18 engine! Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2023 (edited) 19 hours ago, datsunfreak said: There's often a brass plug filling a hole that is already drilled. 👍 Right about here... There was no brass plug. It is on the other side! I ran the grinder around that area a few times. I started with a 2 mm drill bit! And went one drill bit to the next up to the 3/8 bit. Making sure to angle it as perfect as I could. Edited June 7, 2023 by Doctoraudio Quote Link to comment
Doctoraudio Posted June 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2023 (edited) Good morning. Found some rust and I have been discussing it with a few professional autobody guys. I would like to fix, it right. I have also been watching videos on bodywork. Super interesting. I signed up for a MiG welding class. I am on the waiting list for winter classes. Today, one of my friends is coming over to torque the head down. I have broken studs, head-bolts and once I stripped the cam blocks threads in the past. Doug has worked on a few cars in his life. He is the first person I call. When we have car issues. He has talked me thru, a few! I have been busy working in the yard. Getting my garden ready! Love me some fresh veggies! Edited June 16, 2023 by Doctoraudio 1 Quote Link to comment
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