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Doctoraudio's 1969 Snow White Goon


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I did some reserach and found out the fuel line is 1/8-28 BSPT.


https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00V5Q6GME/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3G8N7XXKUXRB9&keywords=1%2F8-28+is+BSPT&qid=1696295491&s=automotive&sprefix=1%2F8-28+is+bspt%2Cautomotive%2C133&sr=1-3 Edited by Doctoraudio
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5 hours ago, Doctoraudio said:

Another option so you are not stacking adapters is to rethread the bspt to 1/8 npt .... I did this to all my bspt threads.... 

Use a little grease to catch the chips and go slow, then use the npt fitting like a gauge so you get enough thread engagement ...

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Update.
Yesterday.
I put the engine bay wiring harness in.
It is connected to almost every thing it was before, I removed it.
There is few broken wire ends.
And many of the connectors have come off. I will be replacing them, sometime later today.

I also adjusted, the valves.
Intake: .008
Exhaust: .010

I placed the alternator on the lower bracket.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Today
Battery and starter.
Run 14 AWG White wire for the fuse box.
Hook up the fuel line.
Heater core inlet.
Run alternator wires
Mount the top alternator bracket.
After I finish cleaning up the welding I did.
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13 hours ago, Doctoraudio said:

Question:

What about the engine vent tube.

What should I do with that?

And the Vacuum advance?

These have me puzzled.

Because of the side draft you cant use the vacuum advance or at least I haven't heard anyone that uses it....

I dont know to much about the why...

 

As for the engine vent... I assume you mean the block vent under the intake.... generally that goes to the PVC but again side draft....

Solutions are:

small filter on the end...

Catch can...

Or use the pcv.... I actually use the pcv with my lynx intake... I'll try to find a picture....

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So far so good.
All the wiring is checking out.
I did try to turn it over and that was a no go.
So, I took the Starter and Battery in to be checked.
Battery was showing 13.4 volts.
But couldn't hold a 100 amp draw.

Got a new one and the engine spun.
So, I put the spark plugs in it.
And spun it again from the key!
There was no noise or rattling.
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In the past couple days.
Fuel line issues.
Leaks everywhere.
And fuel not getting to the carb.

Starter died.
I probably burned it up.

But each day. I do a little more.
I also welded the holes in one of the doors, form the side mirrors.
And I fixed the hood cracks.
Drilled the end of the cracks and fill it in.
Came out pretty good. Edited by Doctoraudio
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L16 are B6ES (210 head)

L20Bs use BP6ES and PBR6ES in Canada. (A87, U67 and W58 head)

Z series are BPR6ES* **

 

So P is for projected tip and R for resistor otherwise the Z22 and the L20B are basically the same. If projected tip work in the L20B heads they will work in an L16.

 

* If using a Z series head you will additionally need BPR5ES (hotter) plugs on the exhaust side.

** If using an L series head the compression on an LZ22 is 9.84 so you might want to run a cooler single plug like the PBR7ES in it. Perhaps a B7ES or BR7ES as some find the projected tip prone to pre-ignition.

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No. Weather has nothing to do with plug heat range. The stock range is what you should run. The plug has to run hot enough to self clean but not so hot that it becomes an ignition source during the compression stroke. If your engine is an oil burner a hotter plug can help is stay clean and not foul as easily.

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19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

* If using a Z series head you will additionally need BPR5ES (hotter) plugs on the exhaust side.

** If using an L series head the compression on an LZ22 is 9.84 so you might want to run a cooler single plug like the PBR5ES in it. Perhaps a B5ES or BR5ES as some find the projected tip prone to pre-ignition.

I think you are a little off...

If standard is a b6es...

The b7es would be colder and the b5es would be hotter.   

 

I run the b7es in my higher compression L16.....

 

Screenshot_20231103-083558_DuckDuckGo.jpg

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