Doctoraudio's 1969 Snow White Goon

[Doctoraudio]

I have tried all three oil pans here.

Nothing is working!

The steering linkage hits one.

And the other doesn't even fit between the crossmember and the steering linkage.

And the one that does fit is to tall in the front.

 

What is the remedy.

What oil pan should I be looking for?

If I don't find the right one in the next couple of days. I was playing have to put my old engine back in.

Winter is coming!

[fiveoneO]

If the oil pan from your old engine fit, then that same pan should work with your new engine. Maybe you have a problem with your engine mounts?

[datzenmike]

On 9/16/2023 at 3:34 PM, Doctoraudio said:

Motor mounts.

At the moment the engine sits on the cross member.

The oil pan is the one that came off the L18 that was in the car?

 

 

You're using the L18 engine brackets?

What about the rubber mounting isolators? what are they from?

[Doctoraudio]

fiveoneO:
IDK!
My mounts look like the ones from Z Car!
I am going to put thing back together like I had it.
And hope I figure it out!
maybe I can find someone close to give me a hand.

[Doctoraudio]

datzenmike:

Do you have a pic of the proper mounts?
Maybe you have a pic of them mounted?

[Doctoraudio]

Do any of you guys who used to, or still do have a Z22 block have any pictures from your install?

[datzenmike]

While the L series is tilted 12 degrees to the right I don't think all chassis rubber isolators and frames are mounted the same so the engine brackets from a 620 won't necessarily work on a 510 or 521 or maybe anything else. The L series blocks all appear to be cast the same so the holes for the engine brackets are in the same place and this seems to have continued into the Z series engines as well.  

 

Are you using the L18 engine brackets? That's the brackets that bolt to the block and to the rubber isolator mount. If from something else the block might sit lower.

[Doctoraudio]

Mike, I don't know at this point.

But they do look like what have seen.

But, I am not an expert.

[Doctoraudio]

I got it.
I had the left motor mount in the higher spot!
Which dropped the engine lower and put it on the Crossmember.


 
Edited September 23, 2023 by Doctoraudio

[Doctoraudio]

The engine is back in the car.

One motor mount tore apart.

But screw it.

Another is on the way.

As I staring at it.

I feel relieved to be at this part!

And this time it is sitting proper.

 

Even the shift hole line up perfectly!

 

There is no oil in the block I drained it all. Except for the oil filter is still on.

But I am at the point where I can start putting the brake and steering stuff back.

 

 Yippee ki-yay mother f*****!!

 

[Doctoraudio]

To me that is an awesome picture!

Edited September 25, 2023 by Doctoraudio

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

[Doctoraudio]

Cleaned the clutch and master.
All paint has been removed!
Hood parts have been cleaned and painted black!
Looks great!
I can make the stock linkage work.
What do you think?
I am thinking if it works?
Leave it!

[iceman510]

Make it run.  Change it later if you don't like it.

[Doctoraudio]

Okay, guys.



How do I run the water from the engine to the heater core.



And since there is no water line going to the intake manifold.



What do I do with all those lines?



How would you do it.



Any pics or diagrams?? Edited September 29, 2023 by Doctoraudio

[Crashtd420]

For the heater it goes from the connector on the head to the heater core... heater core connects to the water pump inlet.... I think in one of your pictures the is a second connector on the side of the block below the one in the head.... I believe that should be plugged....

 

Take a picture of the spark plug side of the motor and it can be explained easier with what you have.....

 

Also what water pump inlet are you using? ... that might matter on how you can plumb things....

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If you're not running the hose from the front cover to the intake, tap the nipple on the side of the cover to NPT and stick a plug in it. Far cleaner than using a hose with a slug jammed in it.

 

If you have a friend who can TIG weld, just weld that nipple shut.

[Doctoraudio]

Okay.
I found the water inlet from the Z22 and both of the other are from a L16 and L18.
The Z22 ones only has two inlets.
Where the L16 and 18 ones have three inlets.
I just noticed something.
The Z22 water inlet as actually angled down.
Where the L16 one is level!
Starter is back on.
Still working on wiring!
Going thru my harness.
There is a bunch of spliced in wires.
This will need to be changed out, in the future! Edited October 1, 2023 by Doctoraudio

[Crashtd420]

12 hours ago, Doctoraudio said:

Okay.
I found the water inlet from the Z22 and both of the other are from a L16 and L18.
The Z22 ones only has two inlets.
Where the L16 and 18 ones have three inlets.
I just noticed something.
The Z22 water inlet as actually angled down.
Where the L16 one is level!
Starter is back on.
Still working on wiring!
Going thru my harness.
There is a bunch of spliced in wires.
This will need to be changed out, in the future!

The z22 would work good because it doesn't have the input from the intake.... 

The head and the water inlet are the 2 you need for the heater.... 

If you use the L16 one you need to do as stoffregen suggested....

 

Also I think you have another elbow on the block above the starter that needs to be plugged...

[datzenmike]

You should keep the by pass line from the thermostat housing down to the fitting the lower radiator and heater return hose are on. If not running this by pass, a less useful thing to do is get L16 thermostats that have 'giggle valves' or drill a 1/8" hole in is so it 'leaks' slowly into the radiator hose when closed. This promotes circulation past the thermostat and removes the cold stagnant coolant caught in the thermostat housing.

 

Heater inlet from the L head is a fitting near the back. Z series blocks have the fitting on the block just above the starter.

 

Z car inlets are more swept back than the L4 fittings moving the lower radiator hose away from the alternator.

L6 on left and L4 on right

 

Some L6 inlets don't have a by pass fitting just the heater hose. Can't find the picture.

 

 

 

 

[Doctoraudio]

Update.
I removed the elbow on the block.
I need to get the plug for it.
Does anyone know what is the numbers for it?
Also the fuel pump in-line was bent pretty badly.

And the Z22 inlet is larger than the original one.
How do I connect the larger hose to the smaller heater core hose?
It is a copper pipe.
I could just solder a 1/2 inch to 3/4 adapter on the heater core.
What would you do?

I want to replace my fuel line.
With some 4AN fuel lines??
Just would need to figure out how to use the return line to the tank!
Any suggestion?

It is going to rain hard the rest of the day!
So, I will use this day to work inside and get ready for tomorrow's outside activities!

[datzenmike]

This is a Z22 block with L head????

 

 

Just take the elbow with you to a fastener store and get a plug. Probably metric thread.

 

 

The return line is on the fuel rail that goes from pump to carburetor.

 

The hose on bottom connects to hard line to carburetor and returns just above it with small hole in it. This connects to the hard return line to the tank.

 

 

 

 

 

[Doctoraudio]

How it looks now.

[Doctoraudio]

Carb side.

[Doctoraudio]

I am proud of my first try at mig welding!
Came out great!