Sealik Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 My spindle collection. Always wondered what the long ones were from. Pretty 'lengthly' collection....got me beat....lol Your thoughts on my speedo 'kerfuffle'? Does the stock 510 trannie have a different mounting for the speedo cable...compared to the 'newer' 5 speeds? Seems like my inner cable (510) is a little short for the 280ZX trannie/speedo.....for some reason I believe that the old NFG cable I pulled out was from the 280ZX and or.....not a stock 510 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 interesting mod with the gauges Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 If the outer sheath was caught on something, like while pulling a motor, it could have stretched it. The inner cable would then be 'shorter'. Otherwise the 510 speedo cable should work on all 71B 4 and 5 speeds even some 71C type and the dogleg.. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 If the outer sheath was caught on something, like while pulling a motor, it could have stretched it. The inner cable would then be 'shorter'. Otherwise the 510 speedo cable should work on all 71B 4 and 5 speeds even some 71C type and the dogleg.. Crap....there goes my theory... :D Forgot about that stretch factor....figured Merlin would chime in stating I had the wrong cable. Oh well....looks like the 720 speedo/cable mod is a given On another note.....I hacked out the rust on the left rear rocker. The donor metal....partial rocker from Byrons goon and a 720 door.... :D Just talked to my buddy down the road, shall drive the 510 down to his place tomorrow morn. He'll repair the rockers and paint it....etc...etc. Nothing fancy.....just give the old girl some more shelf life I'll work my 'magic' on his recently required addition.....ie....carpentry Barter system..... Had some extra rubber from the 720 4x4 flares, decided to trim the air dam with it Still needs to be glued/trimmed into place....the black paint on the lip bled through/under the tape.... :blink: Needs another coat of white and or...flat black/grey Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 :thumbup: Curious, Have you lifted the rear seat out(if it has one)? Looking in the inner area(rear),looks like I can see the subframe? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Rear seat?????..... Just 3/4" plywood/carpet bolted to the floor for the dogs... :lol: .... which...... is in pretty good shape Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Rear seat?????.....Just 3/4" plywood/carpet bolted to the floor for the dogs... :lol: .... which...... is in pretty good shape :rofl: I would check the rear sub frame mounts(to be safe) Would hate for one of the dogs to get a spring where the sun dont shine Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 :rofl:I would check the rear sub frame mounts(to be safe) Would hate for one of the dogs to get a spring where the sun dont shine Yeah...the mount is solid. Shall be mucho stronger than 'stock' in a few days. That hole was not there when I started....I just removed all the rust and 40 + year old shit. New metal....ASAP... :D EDIT And of course a 'hint' of bondo.... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Yeah...the mount is solid.Shall be mucho stronger than 'stock' in a few days though. That hole was not there when I started....I just removed all the rust and 40 + year old shit. New metal....ASAP... :D :thumbup: I like this Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Well....my body man 'started' drinking ....lol......and then left town for another job, fracking in Alberta. Sooooo....did most of the work myself. Far from perfect......but....definitely gave the 510 some more shelf life Utilized some metal from two 720 doors, 2 foot chuck of Byrons goon rocker...which replaced both back end sides of the 510. Also replaced the lower rear passenger side fender....other side is suspect but good for a few years yet. Short and long strand fiberglass, tube of urethane, can of roofing tar, 2 cans of rock guard. Epoxy primer 3/4 litre of paraffin rust proofing......drilled 3 holes into the rockers after they were welded up. 2 on the ends and one in the middle (up top with door open). Then blasted the inside of the rear doors......and a couple of other areas. Slathered all orifices and or with that urethane....excellent shit..... :thumbup: Stock 510 bumper would not fit over the air dam......whipped up a wood one....lol Now I can finish it in stages.....when time and weather permits.....good to go though Signed.....sealed and 'delivered'.......tomorrow..... :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Still like that 510 silhouette in the back window. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 nice work! Thanks...... Forgot to mention.....he sprayed on that Slick Sand....good shit. Then I blocked it out....came out rather well. Thing is....where do you stop.....?????......lol Still have to cut in that passenger side body line...think I'll fix a 1x4 to the body and break out my laminate trimmer....lol After I slather it with 'bondo' of course....... :sneaky: Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thing is....where do you stop.....?????......lol Thats the hard part. Once you start you cant stop. If you are super fussy it becomes an even more bigger project Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 Anwho...needed to tune the SUs The RA needles ran way too rich at WOT(9.6ish)....soooo...first attempt to buff some N27s into some better numbers. Like to try a fresh set of RAs....but... No drill press here...just a fresh broccoli rubber band to run the drill at the 'appropriate' RPM....the clamp is a given :rofl: Pressure and type of grit is part of the learning curve....lol Better A/F numbers.....cruise is around 14+, WOT is mid 12s....but anything below 2000RPM is in the 11s Note to self.......keep RPMs above 2000.....lol Problem was I had to take a large swath out of the middle of the needle,....so I figured I'd take a little off the top to compensate/reduce for the larger incremental drop in numbers.... between less stages of the needle. Wrong. Also....after every buff, I'd re-install and check the A/F readings. Take it for a drive...but wasn't sure how the numbers related to the actual position of the needle relative to the seat/RPM/speed and or....lol Trial and error.......have another set to work with. Cleaned them up with 1000 grit after the fact.... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Soooo...heard of a guy in town with some 240Z cars etc and decided to (finally) pay a visit. Impressed....nice Z....in the works of course. L28 out of ZX from his back 40....car is stripped, but in pretty good shape Has a set of these rims...... Or....these iron crosses for sale And these 280ZX struts.....hmmmmmmm....decisions....lol Also has a N42 head available....but... compression will still be a little too high for my L28 Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Cool thing about the iron crosses are they are hard to bend, compared with the 6 spoke ones, which can bend easily. If your dime is going to see "ahem" some off highway excursions those iron c's would hold up well. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Iron crosses are also way heavier. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 Iron crosses are also way heavier. Yeah... 14s though....would rather have some 15s, tires are 1/3 the price and available...lol But..... Put the 'OE' springs back in.... Before After... Found 5 more GR starters after some slight hoard rearrangement....lol Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 After buying a couple of L dizzys from a few Ratsun members.....which turned out to be NFG :mad: , I decided to get a 1/4" piece of aluminum 'grafted' to the top outer side of the Z22 cover. Drilled 2 holes and tapped them out This enables me to utilize any Z22 or Z24 dizzys I have....and the front part of the L HG I used an early 3 wire Z24 dizzy. B/W...<....positive side of coil Red...<.... negative...........coil Blue.....not utilized, for exhaust side plugs on Z24 LZ23 runs much better...flashed right up and had no leaks. One problem......my tach doesn't work anymore under 4000 ish RPM ....nothing was touched. Wire was never removed from the negative side of coil....etc Only thing I can think of is a 2.2 ohm resistor, not sure if I need to run that with the 8 plug dizzy? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Here you can see the difference between the 4 bolt Z cover (top) and the 2 bolt L. Didn't realize it....but... the blue L6 cover is another 3/4 inch shorter than the L4 cover I removed... on left. Who would of thunk........ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Crank center line to top of block.. L16/18.......... 207.85mm L20B/Z20/Z22.... 227.45mm... timing cover 19.6mm taller than L16/18 Z24/KA24E/DE.... 247.45mm... timing cover 20mm taller than L20/Z20/Z22 2.2K resister... could be. Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Dumb question, but since you seem to have all this sitting in front of you. Will the z-24 timing cover fit on a Ka 24e without mods? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 I will say no. The water pump inlet to the block is on the left side on the KA and all L and Z are on the right. Also the KA block vent comes out the timing chain cover so a Z24 wouldn't have provision for this. The only thing in common with the Z24 is the top will match the front of the head gasket and the oil pump will swap. Obviously the water pumps are totally diffeent. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Tried to find out why my aftermarket tach does not ....soooo I 'wired'' in a 720 tach with the resistor to see if I could get that to run Negative...no go Which got me thinking about the signal from the negative side of coil Clipped the test light to the neg batt side...probe to positive side of coil....good. Probe to negative side of coil and got a slight spark when I touched it. Light/probe seems dimmer and is flickering. ^^^^^^...........never mind....that is normal...lol I'll try to find another aftermarket tach and see what happens. Quote Link to comment
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