Sealiks Shit

[Z chopper]

4x4 bush basher goon is a sweet idea

[Sealik]

Got a 240Z air cleaner from Merlin and had my way with it..... :D

My SUs are now horned......... :devil:
Horns are not bolted tight yet
 

 

'Flipped' the domes from one SU to another...now the pistons drop at the same speed.

Soon....................

[merlin]

Awesome!

[Sealik]

Update....

Have about 350km on the LZ.......runs really well....compression was about 165 and climbing.
Still has an odd miss when warming up though.. :huh:
Anywho.......Changed the oil and filter.... reset valve lash


Swapped the SUs on ....somewhat of a pain in the ass with those extra 4 bolts on the 46s.... ;)



Had to 're-fab' some things...not quite done


2 ccs of ATF in each dome.
Chokes/throttle linkage were not hooked up...
Crank it....fired right up..idled about 2800, I then threw on the Uni-syn.
Front carb was pulling well. Back one...just barely.
A/F ratio was around 12
Shut if off...backed the idle set screw on the front carb right out....away from throttle lever.

Flashed it back up.....2800 again. If I sync (idle up) the back carb to match the front...idle increases.
Hmmmmm....I believe the front ('new') throttle plate is NFG...not closing enough????

Emailed Norm from Zeddsaver...


Hi Norm


........."I noticed when I got that SU back it was missing the idle set screw....so I installed one of my own...but....It did not seat enough to reach the throttle lever to adjust idle....????......."
So...I cut the spring in half so it would.....but now when I fire it up, with that idle screw backed out all the way.... it revs at about 2800 RPM"........
............................................................................................


Poop.....kaos has again reared it's head... :D

[Sealik]

Just got an email back from Norm...

 

Apparently................."It was a bad mistake for you to cut the idle spring in half".

 

He suggests removing the throttle plate and cleaning it up...

Excellent.............would of assumed the new TP was already fitted..???....... :confused:

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Just got an email back from Norm...

 

Apparently................."It was a bad mistake for you to cut the idle spring in half".

 

He suggests removing the throttle plate and cleaning it up...

Excellent.............would of assumed the new TP was already fitted..???....... :confused:

 

 

 

oops, noticeable throttle response?

[Sealik]

 

oops, noticeable throttle response?

 

Yup.....I pulled that throttle plate and cleaned it up, had some extra cadmium plating on the fringes.

Put some heavier throttle return springs on it...good to go.

46s are a noticeable improvement over the Weber 38......but it's running a tad rich...raised the jets to lean it out a bit more

A/F ratio readings are about 11.8 at idle....11.3 at WOT....70 MPH in 4th is about 13.5....drops to around 12.5 in fifth gear

Only see 14s on decelleration

Need some fatter needles

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Yup.....I pulled that throttle plate and cleaned it up, had some extra cadmium plating on the fringes.

Put some heavier throttle return springs on it...good to go.

46s are a noticeable improvement over the Weber 38......but it's running a tad rich...raised the jets to lean it out a bit more

A/F ratio readings are about 11.8 at idle....11.3 at WOT....70 MPH in 4th is about 13.5....drops to around 12.5 in fifth gear

Only see 14s on decelleration

Need some fatter needles

 

This is good to know :thumbup:

[poopypants720]

I want to see a vids of these puppies in action!

[Sealik]

I want to see a vids of these puppies in action!

 

Puppies...???....no problemo :D

 

 

 

Ahhhhh......these 'puppies'

Sounded better from inside the truck.... B)

 

 

 

Anywho....LZ would not start this morning, without chokes...was around 40F

Waited till it was a little warmer outside.. then it flashed right up.

Decided to install the throttle cables from a snowmobile to run the chokes.....'spring' is not quite here

 

 

Realized Merlin had some 46 SUs....soooo...I went up and paid a visit.

After I got the SUs home and soaked them if Seafoam for a couple of hours, I was able to pull the pistons out. But....still the needles could not be removed. I then sandwiched the needle(s) between 2 pieces of wood and 'loosely' clamped it in a bench vise. Gingerally turned the piston....and voila.....'new' needles :D

One was a little bent so I chucked it into a drill and straightened it out with a piece of wood. As the needle spun I pressed the wood against the needle...worked rather well..

The needles were N-27....somewhat fatter than my RAs.

A little richer at idle.....smidge below 11....WOT is 12.1.....but running around town/highway with a light 'load' was between 13 and 16

Better A/F ratios :)

[poopypants720]

Haha awesome! Cute puppies too. Wish I could see how that performs in person.

[datzenmike]

Tax brake for dependents?

[Sealik]

Tax brake for dependents?

Would be nice.....

Wanted to breed Sammie....but.... I couldn't locate the woman with a (stud) dog I had previously made arrangements with

Bitch......I think she figured I was stalking her :rofl:

 

Anywho.....I dropped the front end out of 510...everything

 

 

 

 

Then yanked the one out of Byrons goon

 

 

 

Stock coil on right.....cut/heavier spring in center....Byrons on left

Would like to use Byrons struts with the larger brakes etc....but

 

 

 

As you can see here the upper threads are somewhat NFG...I could spin the collar up about 2 inches...but not sure if that will be enough to raise the car up to a more desired height.

Also....what holds the collar in place....?.....spring load/weight of the front end ???

Hmmmmm...moar research

 

Also has adjustable radius rods on the goon that I might swap over.....

 

[datzenmike]

Doug I think if you space the bottom any higher the spring will be too compressed and the strut maxed out to it's extended position. If it does that your wheels could leave the pavement on lumps in the road.

 

You see the three outer bolt holes (triangle shape on Byron's strut) that secure the strut to the body strut tower? Well if you made some kind of 2" ring and used 2" longer bolts that would space the body up that amount.

 

 

 

.

[Sealik]

Doug I think if you space the bottom any higher the spring will be too compressed and the strut maxed out to it's extended position. If it does that your wheels could leave the pavement on lumps in the road.

 

You see the three outer bolt holes (triangle shape on Byron's strut) that secure the strut to the body strut tower? Well if you made some kind of 2" ring and used 2" longer bolts that would space the body up that amount.

Yeah...I bailed on using Byrons struts....still to low even with some 2 inch 'rings'.

Merlin gave me some stock springs....so I removed the shorties from my strut assemblies and installed them.

I did take one 'shock' apart to replace the oil....but...somebody already did it. :thumbup:

Nice and clean....so I just put it back together

 

Put my own spin on DMikes cantilevered plank spring removal 'kit'... :w00t:

Was pretty easy by myself......I did put a hinge on the end of the plank so it wouldn't pull away from the wall.

Drilled a 1.5 inch hole in the plank where the 17mm nut had to be fastened.

The weight of the tire brought the stud within an 1/8 inch from the top hat...so...I just sat on the plank and guided it in.

 

Voila

Can see the spring I removed on left....

 

 

Problem though....after installing the strut and raising the LCA to connect the radius rod and sway bar...the jack just raised the whole front end.

510 is too light without the running gear....shall figure something out :D

[datzenmike]

Load the dogs in the bay....

[merlin]

need me to sit on the hood? 275lbs lol. will drift down after supper.

[Sealik]

need me to sit on the hood? 275lbs lol. will drift down after supper.

 

Wait....I have to take one side apart.... :o ... :blush:

[merlin]

i just ate BBQ ribs at the hotel... thats an extra 10lbs

[merlin]

took a dump... :poop: down 10 lbs

[Sealik]

took a dump... :poop: down 10 lbs

 

Excellent......must of been a triple flush....any plunger action????? :frantics:

Used a 'locating dowel' and clamped it together.....utilized Byrons cross member and steering components...good n' tite now.

Sort of........ :D

 

Installed the gas tank after I cleaned it out and used a 720 metal fuel filler neck because the 510s was rotted away, worked rather well.

The metal fuel line to the engine is somewhat plugged...have to run a new one...poop :poop: ,........ return line is clear.

 

Mounted a wind shield washer unit from a 720....that also fit rather well.

 

Installed another dash and under hood harness....that is ...well...some what of a rats nest.....BUT...I think I got it... :confused: . :lol:

Some one removed/cut the plug-in for the ignition switch....which threw a temporary 'wrench' into the mix.

Had to use a lot of elec switches/etc from the goon....because of the fire in mine.... :crying:

 

[Sealik]

Paid a visit to Merlins this morn...scored some parts..... :thumbup:
Rear bumper....which no fits. Seems the 510 has added some girth over the years......bondo...... :lol:
Just bend the wings out to fit and or.....'liposuction' :D
Stock metal fuel line from the tank to front fender...installation was rather simple, saved a bit of 'time' on that.
Rear brake bits...
Stock rear springs...got those installed....although...when I unbolted the rear shocks I still didn't have enough clearance to remove the springs after the suspension arm dropped. Had to unbolt the half shafts for the arms to drop further....hmmmmm....

The wiring is pretty much finished....much pain in ass.

510 is now back to stock height...off road activities shall soon commence B) ...Slap on some 14s...and the LZ of course

[Sealik]

Needed to find a longer driveshaft since the L28 has been swapped for LZ23.

I measured the distance from the center of the MMs to the back of the blocks

L28....16 5/8
Lz23.....8 1/4

Then measured center to center on the universal joints/journal bearing caps
L28 drive shaft in 510........30 1/4
Early 720 4x4 drive shaft...38 3/4.
83+ 720 4x4s have larger universals and flange yolk/bolt pattern...no good


So....L28DS ....30 1/4 +16 5/8 = 46 7/8
........720DS.....38 3/4 + 8 1/4 = 47

Hmmmmmm....1/8 inch difference...that is good :thumbup:
This will place the LZ23 back in the stock (MM) location.... utilizing the same ZX long tail trannie and 720 DS

Now I just have buy a new universal joint and swap the sleeve yolk over.... :D



Much cheaper than getting a longer DS shortened....which I don't have.

[datzenmike]

Stock sedan driveshaft is 42 9/16"

Shortened for zx 5 speed... 37 3/8" if that helps.

[Sealik]

Shortened for zx 5 speed... 37 3/8" if that helps.

 

Yes it does.....how was it measured???