Sealiks Shit

[Tristin]

With a tape measure...

[Sealik]

With a tape measure...

 

Brilliant proposal.......

 

How to measure...as in..... which 2 locations on the DS

[Sealik]

Change of plan...decided to put the LZ in the same position as the L28, which is 7 1/8 inches back from the stock position.
Which means I don't have to change the oil pan, driveshaft.... and the exhaust will be closer to bolting up.
Also means no heater...oh well. Although...if I cut the center out of the dash it would fit....sort of.... :w00t:

Grabbed some metal and drilled some holes to mount the MMs....will sit 'loose' at the cross member until the engine is positioned, then welded in place.......then braced/welded from the bottom of the flat bar to the sub frame and or.
Only have the bracket and insulator (MM) for the passenger side though...the L28 was jerry rigged in on the drivers side.



Brakes/emergency brake are all done.
Assumed the brakes on the goon were different for some reason.....but nay, so I used most of those parts.
Seized brake cylinders from sitting so long......just worked them loose and disassembled.
The cylinder bores and rubbers on the pistons were good......soooo.... just cleaned them up....good to go :D



Initially...they were somewhat puzzled... What is this???...Mmmmmm....basically walk right into the..... "let's go for a ride".....I tried to 'explain' that there was no engine...."can't go anywhere yet"....

I then yelled "STICK"...and all was forgotten..
sort of. :lol:

[datzenmike]

Sort of like a Yenko Camaro with the motor moved back. Wonder how that will affect the handling?

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I like where this is going..

Get it done drive the sum bishe :w00t:

[Sealik]

Sort of like a Yenko Camaro with the motor moved back. Wonder how that will affect the handling?

 

That is a good question...I do know this though....it's gonna handle a lot better than the 720 B)

 

I like where this is going..

Get it done drive the sum bishe :w00t:

 

Yeah...lots had to be done though.....from cross member... to suspension... to gas tank... to wiring harnesses/gauges...to....etc...etc...etc...

Shoot for next weekend...should be interesting...never drove in a 510 yet.... :w00t:

LZ should be a lot 'quicker' in the car... shaved 1400lbs, lost the 31 inch tires..... and no more transfer case

[datzenmike]

I think the 510 is 50/50 or very close so you're looking at 45/55

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Videos going to be up at the end of next weekend right :devil:

[Sealik]

Videos going to be up at the end of next weekend right :devil:

 

Soon....ran into a few issues :D

 

 

 

 

Exedy on the right was bolted to the LZ...won't use it though, too much clutch for the lighter 510

Mount it back into the L6/720 instead... :D

Clutch on left was on the L28 and looks pretty good....shall use that

 

[Sealik]

Engine is in....but not in the intended position, 7 inches back.



I figured the Z24 truck pan would clear the center link....but the bottom of the pan sat about 3-4 inches below the cross member. :hmm:
So....I grabbed a L16 pan and pick up from Merlin and slightly modified it.
When installing the engine.....no fittie unless I lose the wiper motor or the SUs..... :D The rear L4 SU sits closer to the back of the engine than the L6....about a 1.5 inches. Would work if I threw on the 38/38....but.....I'll stay with the SUs B)

Sooooo...ended up putting the engine in it's stock location
Needed to make some ZX trannie adatpters....... per DQ 9-2 and utilized the stock L16 cross member
https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1/edit?pli=1&docId=0ByCvxnHNk90SZmE5ZjE2MGItOTNmMC00NGQ2LWJmYmItYjQ4MjMzZWE0MjRh

Fit rather well.....although the 'local steel shop' had no 1x3 so I used some 1x2 instead.

[Sealik]

Removed all the PS brackets/etc from the LZ
The clutch fan would not fit....sooooo...had to 'cut the lawn' to find the appropriate parts for clearance from the wider rad. :D
Left me about 1/2" between the fan and rad (center)....about an inch at the fan tips
Installed the mechanical fuel pump...etc...etc........all plumbed up....also ran an extra coolant hose to the IM






Figured the fuel pump might have some crud in it.....temp (filter) 'solution'

[Sealik]

Dragged a 720 out of the back 40 today.......actually ...it was only about 12ft...... exceptional metallurgy content.... :lol:
The Z22 motor and or ......is for ............................................................dm
Good block...metric and all..... :D



And.....finally got the exhaust hooked up on the 510......................1-4K RPM in vid
Not quite conducive................................................................. yet.


Sounds rather well at 6500 though.........Supertrapp muff

Kudos to Merlin for the picker and pull....................

[Sealik]

Wow...8 months since I last posted

 

Anywho....decided to have a look at how the 510 axle stubs (output shafts/side flanges) fit into the 720 front diff, being that the diff in my 510 has a little slop. It already has the R180 diff with the 510 stubs.

I have a shit load of 720 diffs....4.11 and 4.375....soooooo...that is good for the 510

 

Pretty easy swap....

Located some 510 R160 stubs........Thanks Merlin :thumbup:

 

Remove the 2 spot welds holding the dust cover on the 510 stub, you can see how deep the cover is. It won't work on the 720 diff

 

 

 

Grind the remaining weld flush so the 720 cover sits down flush, the 720 dust cover is just press fitted on, so it can easily be pried off

 

 

 

'New' covers installed...just need to spot weld them in place. The lip at base of the 510 stub is a little smaller than 720...so the covers don't fit as tight

 

Done......

 

 

Just need new side seals and this 4.11 is ready to go

I'll find a 4.38 in the back 40 and prep that in case of need.

[Sealik]

Want to use these struts on the 510.....sooooooooo

 

 

I figured if I could get the sleeves off and flip them end to end...I could reuse them, the spring has worn away most of the threads at the top. Once the sleeve was off I could remove the collar from the bottom

 

I'll have the collar raised up so the 510 doesn't sit tooooo low......but.

 

I don't think I'll be able to pull them off with a gear puller, I cranked it tight then set the strut straight up and blasted some Deep Creep in the cracks, let it sit for a while and see what happens. Not sure how tight that sleeve was when it was installed,...no doubt it has fused to the strut.

I'll have to make 2 cuts to remove the sleeve and to keep the collar intact, one lengthwise and one above (around) the strut

 

Maybe 3 tablespoons of green slime came out of the strut.......lol

 

[datzenmike]

Doug is that the rear end that was in last June when you took me for a ride in it? What ratio was it?

[Sealik]

Doug is that the rear end that was in last June when you took me for a ride in it? What ratio was it?

 

The diff in pic.....?.....Nope.... that's another one I have lying aboot....

The diff in the 510 is 4.38

 

Speaking of which......Merlin tacked the dust shields to those stubs and i swapped them into the car.

Stubs that were in there had no dust shields.....plus I needed to check the 14mm bolts that hold them in.

Yup....both were not very tight, snugged them up, much less play.

While I was under there I checked everything out....nothing is loose to explain the 'rattle' I have.

I'll pull the console and investigate further....other than that....I'm baffled....lol

 

On those struts....If I can't pull the sleeve off the way it is I'll cut the damaged portion off (2+ inches) and try again.

If I can pull it off it,..... obviously it will be a little short, I'll use a split collar to raise the sleeve.

Maybe......

Budget 'build'....lol

[Sealik]

I managed to remove the sleeves with a little heat, deep creep, gear puller and a BFH 

The plan was to use a split collar....but the bottom of the sleeve is beveled inside...<....which matches the collar that is welded to the strut. 

 

 

 

Cleaned the upper part of the struts and cut the damaged portion of the sleeves off.

Good 'ol Makita.....just about lopped my thumb right off with that many moons ago.....lol

 

 

Sooooo....I have to cut the bead holding it in place and raise it up, it seems to somewhat 'stabilize/center' the sleeve

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plan D is now 'looming'......lol

[Sealik]

Mmmmmmmm.....nothing like getting Datsun shit in the mail..... :thumbup:

Set of 4 screw 46mm SUs....rather surprised, they're in VG shape as Richard stated.

L6 throttle linkage and fuel rail

Choke cables

L6 dizzy

Extra set of needles

And couple of clutch fork boots to boot....

 

 

 

Woot...

 

Thanks Richard

Here's his 4-sale thread

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/51435-su-carburetors-and-parts-galore-parts-lot-cheap/

[Sealik]

Measured the stock strut in the 510...about 24" compressed

The ZX strut fully extended is about the same....

Soooo...in theory.....when they're installed, it should drop the 510 about 2"....(thanks Mike)

Probably closer to 3...might be a little too much for anything other than a 'concrete jungle'

[datzenmike]

You can still shim the top hat to raise it up. BTW I saw a remote igniter in that pile of SU parts.

[Sealik]

You can still shim the top hat to raise it up. BTW I saw a remote igniter in that pile of SU parts.

 

 

I had to go back in the shop and have another look.....figured I missed something... :frantics:

Negative......no remote igniter, I believe that's part of a clamp in pic...lol

 

Yeah...we discussed shimming that top hat a while back....

Might be a go.....shirley I have something lying aboot

[Sealik]

Getting some shit ready for the L28 and or...

 

Cleaned and mocked up the SUs....

Looks like I'll have to mount that trunnion on the throttle bar between the SUs.....same as I did before with the LZ.

Pull from the bottom....instead of up by the balance tube

 

Hacked a 720 WW container bracket in half and attached the 240Z choke cables to it.

Mounted it at the bottom of the dash in the 510.....works good and is positioned rather well.

 

Looking at the TC covers......seems the L28 oil pump shaft is mucho longer, who would of thunk.

Top in pic...the other 2 are for the Z22 and Z24

 

Decided to have my way with the 510s air dam, since it was broken and a little to low to the ground.

Hacked the lip off...

 

 

Trimmed the lip up

 

Riveted it back in place

 

Had no clue what I was going to do with it when I started...... :D... ..but....came out rather well.

Still need to reinforce the 'wings' on it

 

Better than before that is

 

720 speedo(US version) in 510 cluster......Who said it wouldn't fit???.... :lol: 

[merlin]

love the Airdam mod... you can also rivet on a strip of black 3-4 inch linoleum to wall stripping for a nice flexible bottom edge... seen that done on that airdam before.

[Sealik]

love the Airdam mod... you can also rivet on a strip of black 3-4 inch linoleum to wall stripping for a nice flexible bottom edge... seen that done on that airdam before.

 

 

Hmmmm...never thought of that....good idea.

I was thinking some 1970 circa green shag carpet?

Kind of a hairy lip effect.......... lol

 

Actually that mod was a little work....had a few cracks....etc.

 

Reinforced the bottom of the wings with 3 layers of fiberglass, then decided to do the same on all the mounting holes

 

 

 

Filled the front anomolies with short strand fiberglass bondo....fuck...forgot how quick that shit set up...lol

Ready for primer...probably hit it with some glazing putty and or prior

 

On another note....that speedo cable I got from you doesn't seem to work for some reason

The inside is spinning, the speedo does work.

Wondering if that 510 speedo cable mounted on the 280ZX trannie doesn't push the inside 'cable' up enough to engage the speedo

Hmmmm....baffled

[datzenmike]

My spindle collection. Always wondered what the long ones were from.