Sealiks Shit

[Sealik]

Here's a pic of yours I found.

 

 

 

Mine look exactly like this...same lean...height.

Are these Roadster springs ordered through Motorsports?

Are these Comp Springs ordered through Motorsports?

 

Here are some Comp springs...blue stripe....coil leans the other way.

 

 

I mentioned the size to Specialty Engineering....they thought they were Roadster springs....thus the spray bar.

 

You're confused...? :D

Ditto

[banzai510(hainz)]

Motorsports springs M1046 thats whats on the right side.Like the pakage says on top.

[Sealik]

Motorsports springs M1046 thats whats on the right side.Like the pakage says on top.

 

 

Correct....'my' book on How to Hotrod a Datsun....says..

Competition valve spring....M1045...NLA

[Sealik]

Decided not to use the Isky retainers....to high of a installed spring height.

Used the stock L inner spring and retainer.... and the Comp outer.

Will have to find some 150-180 retainers somewhere... though.

 

Took up the slack in chain before wedging...

 

 

 

Hard to see in pic....but had lots of oil dripping while I spun the oil pump with an electric drill.

 

 

 

Took a compression test before I fired it up....three were 123lbs....No 1 was 118

Had an initial water leak at the IM gasket...dripping down the side of the block....removed the hose below the carb and plugged it.

Warmed engine up and reset lash clearance....8 and 10 thousands

Seems to have a slight miss, runs better if I turn the dizzy up to 14 degrees which also gives me a little more vacuum.

What is the correct timing?

It has 16lbs of vacuum, seems a little low....but, that might be because the sprocket is at No 3 position and combined with a higher lift cam???

With 3 feet of exhaust it's hard to 'diagnose'.....to loud....does quite down and run smoother with I increase the timing....but...dizzy is turned just about all the way CW.

 

 

 

 

Also have a little air coming out of valve cover breather???

 

And...what is the normal amount of oil in the L head....????.

This is....just after I fired it up...at idle....no revving.

Thought it would be deeper....idles with 40 lbs of oil pressure...hot

 

 

 

 

 

 

First....I shall trailer it out and get the exhaust done...install the bung for the A/F gauge

[datzenmike]

123lbs seems low to me. My 300,000Km + L20B was 130 lbs. and is tired. An advanced cam would have a late closing intake that would bleed off compression.

 

As for timing, you are trying to fit a known (L series) advance to a hybrid. Try different amounts. Where it runs best is the proper advance for it.

[Sealik]

123lbs seems low to me. My 300,000Km + L20B was 130 lbs. and is tired. An advanced cam would have a late closing intake that would bleed off compression.

 

As for timing, you are trying to fit a known (L series) advance to a hybrid. Try different amounts. Where it runs best is the proper advance for it.

 

 

After about 20 mins of 'idling'....it's climbed to 135....yaaaaaa :D

Think I'll pull the oil pump and move the spindle 1 position CCW

Compression should increase after I drive it and the the rings seat...in theory :rolleyes:

Shall confirm PCV 'connection' also.

 

But first...have to get the exhaust connected up...etc.

[Sealik]

Got a hose from the exhaust guy.....now I'll be able to somewhat 'hear' the engine... tune.... and drive it....;)

 

 

Bung welded in for the A/F ratio gauge

Downpipes/flange shall be replaced next year....

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Sealik

I would have put the head on first then the timming chain and to get the tensioner tight and adust the slack side guide(while you had the front cover off). So you know its nice and tite.

 

as for the timming remeber there is that 8mm bolt that holt the timming plate from under neath. so you can recenter the timming plate to get more advance ot retard. Try that first before reindexing the oil pump as I dont think its needed.

If you have to reindex the pump ,ask your seld is the dizzymount that came with the matchbox the actual one that cam with the match box. as they were 2 types and the standard one will point the rorotr in between 1 and 3 plug wires on the dizzycap/rotor

[Sealik]

Sealik

I would have put the head on first then the timming chain and to get the tensioner tight and adust the slack side guide(while you had the front cover off). So you know its nice and tite.

 

as for the timming remeber there is that 8mm bolt that holt the timming plate from under neath. so you can recenter the timming plate to get more advance ot retard. Try that first before reindexing the oil pump as I dont think its needed.

If you have to reindex the pump ,ask your seld is the dizzymount that came with the matchbox the actual one that cam with the match box. as they were 2 types and the standard one will point the rorotr in between 1 and 3 plug wires on the dizzycap/rotor

 

Ya...I was going to do that but trying to get the TC in place would of been a bitch, would of had to cut the oil pan gasket out no doubt. I already had the head on....with the timing chain...was pretty tight...I pivoted the left guide over...if anything it's too tight.

Not sure if I have the correct dizzy mount....just went down to check out some Datsuns. Wanted to grab a oil pump spindle and another dizzy base to compare.....Datsuns all gone....crushed.

Not impressed :angry:

I noticed when I timed it....the marks were jumping around....2-4 degrees,...slight miss.

Electrical....maybe.....worn dizzy spindle....?

New spark plug leads....but they are garbage.

Found a loose fitting on the IM for the brake booster....have to pull the carb to tighten....poop.

Hopefully that helps vacuum....etc.

 

I'm hoping Merlin has an extra spindle

[Sealik]

Actually...I don't think it's the spindle.

I noticed a little wear on the bottom where it engages the pump...shouldn't be of consequence, as long as the skew gear is correct and the top of the spindle is at 11:28.

Changed the sprocket back to No 2 position....just to clear up any unknown advance issues.

Set the timing at about 10 degrees.....fluctuates between 8 and 15 degrees.

Any throttle....backfires through carb.

Cam/crank timing are correct....lobes at 10 and 2, timing set at 0 degrees, cam notch is slightly past groove on cam plate.

Here is the dizzy base/mount....engine is at TDC.

No clue if this combo is correct....or if the dizzy is mounted 180 out.

 

 

Changed the spark plug leads and plugs....no change in plug condition....No 4 on left

Rechecked valve lash.

Too rich....insufficient spark...I'm thinking....

Z24 Dizzy/Z22 TC cover is on the list.

These were new....after about 5 mins of engine running

[banzai510(hainz)]

I thought you had a Matchbox dizzy. I guess hook it up per the instruction in the HOW TO section on the remote type.

You could mount the pedastal 180 off so the tang is in back toward the engine so the vac adv is more accessible. Just move the plug wires 180deg. I believe the early remote type dizzys use the same point type ones also. Its should get in to time easily. Just loosine the 8mm bolt that hold the timming plate and readjust.

 

if timming is eratic I would try another dizzy bushing could be worn or weights/springs tension wearing out.

[Sealik]

Ya....tried it 180 the other way....still no good.

Had it wired to the GM module

No other L dizzys available....so I said fuck it....installed the Z22 TC and Z24 dizzy.

A slight slather was in order :D

Looks pretty cool with 4 extra plug wires.... ;) ... :lol:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ya....tried it 180 the other way....still no good.

 

Why would that not work?

[Sealik]

Ya....tried it 180 the other way....still no good.

 

Why would that not work?

 

 

Cause I'm pretty sure the dizzy is NFG.... :D

[Sealik]

This should confuse a few.... :D

Shall cap the other holes.

 

 

[Sealik]

Good news....bad news.

The Z24 dizzy worked well....steady timing marks....no leaks from upper Z22 TC.

Had....what I thought....was a noise coming from the bottom of engine, was thinking rod by the way it sounded.

Nope....trannie.

Can also hear.... what it seems like the flywheel rubbing on the plate between the engine and trannie???

Only after the engine drops RPM...after I throttle it a bit.

Not knowing....have to pull it it out.... :huh:

Excellent....not. :(

[Sealik]

Pulled the engine forward to see if there was anything grinding on clutch/flywheel....zippo.

Was hoping a partially scathed bolt would fall out. ;)

Decided to pull engine....change trannie while I'm at it.

When I first fired the the engine....I had a little coolant dripping down the side of the block.

Removed the coolant fitting at the IM and snugged the bolts up a little more.

Still had a low vacuum reading after I upgraded the dizzy....16 lbs.

Wasn't sure weather the higher lift cam was contributing to this....but..now....I can see some leakage.

When I pulled the IM... had some residual coolant dribble out.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is me thinking out loud.

I would put studs on the center exhaust. and at the ends. This helps hold up the exhaust and prevent excess whear on the aluminum threads.

also since you dont have holes in the head for the water passage I would NOT even use that line and plugg it where it comes from under the fuel pump. Half ass I just put a hose and a bolt in it. NO water line!!!!!!!!SO then you know you wont have a leak. Plus Im sure there is a airpocket and get hot.

Be honest I dont think you even need that outlet above the temp sender. But that up to you. I guess you could call that a bypass.

[Sealik]

This is me thinking out loud.

I would put studs on the center exhaust. and at the ends. This helps hold up the exhaust and prevent excess whear on the aluminum threads.

also since you dont have holes in the head for the water passage I would NOT even use that line and plugg it where it comes from under the fuel pump. Half ass I just put a hose and a bolt in it. NO water line!!!!!!!!SO then you know you wont have a leak. Plus Im sure there is a airpocket and get hot.

Be honest I dont think you even need that outlet above the temp sender. But that up to you. I guess you could call that a bypass.

 

 

Ya...the 1 hose to the IM was plugged/removed, kept the other going to (below) the thermostat housing, should help bypass.... on any coolant blockage....if.

 

 

Engine was out and now back in....pulled the pan just to have a look at the indents I put into the the pan for the front diff/ clearance issues.....looks good.

No metal....just some paint that flaked off the inner surfaces where I smacked it with the hammer.

Cleaned it all out.

After I resealed the IM with some Hylomar racing blue gasket and sealing compound (good shit). I noticed that the 10 mill bolt holding the heat shield to the underside of the IM was hitting the EM....so I'm assuming the IM couldn't seat properly.

Have another IM gasket coming tomorrow.

The L long tail trannie was replaced with a short tail out of a 85, already had the tunnel opened up for the lean of the shifter. Of course that entails other removals and or replacements :blink:

Shall 'build' another trannie after the snow flies.....

 

I now have 3 studs holding the EM, how many....?

I'm thinking 5....ish...plus...minus :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

Intake manifolds gaskets? you should hae a stack of these!!!!!!!

I always buy more than I need .You esp if far from parts stores.

Be honest if that gasket is new i would reuse it. I coppercoate mine and reuse them if I swap a couple intake on the same day.Esp if no water line is being used!!!!!!!Its not going to leak

HEAD:

On the exhauset

I use 3 studs. One the ends and in the middle.

Intake all 4 studs across the top.

I do this cuase you can tighten the intake a little more with out worrying of pulling the threads on a alum head

Dont get to long ones. I more or eles found the datsun size ones and got new ones. Puliing out a old head was a waist of time.

So then I use 4 bolts with the thinck washer on the bottom.

 

This is not neccesary but I notice it keeps the threads alive longer than pulling /streaching them out over time or chance of x threaden them.

[Sealik]

Intake manifolds gaskets? you should hae a stack of these!!!!!!!

I always buy more than I need .You esp if far from parts stores.

Be honest if that gasket is new i would reuse it. I coppercoate mine and reuse them if I swap a couple intake on the same day.Esp if no water line is being used!!!!!!!Its not going to leak

HEAD:

On the exhauset

I use 3 studs. One the ends and in the middle.

Intake all 4 studs across the top.

I do this cuase you can tighten the intake a little more with out worrying of pulling the threads on a alum head

Dont get to long ones. I more or eles found the datsun size ones and got new ones. Puliing out a old head was a waist of time.

So then I use 4 bolts with the thinck washer on the bottom.

 

This is not neccesary but I notice it keeps the threads alive longer than pulling /streaching them out over time or chance of x threaden them.

 

 

I only used 3 studs on the EM....shall add more when the IM/EM is removed.....hopefully not in the near future ;)

Not sure what they charge you for a IM gasket....but here...they are 20 bucks.

A stack could break me........ :lol:

My second compression test was 165 dry....175 wet with 200 kms on engine.

Today I checked the valve lash again.....a few were a little tight....set them at 9 and 11.

Set the cam gear to No 3 position and did another compression test.

175 (dry) across the board with 300 kms on engine....so...it's climbing as the engine is breaking in. :thumbup:

Didn't bother with a wet test.

Changed the oil 3 times....filter twice.

Finally found a trannie that is good...out of a 82 4x4. Low miles on it....and swapped the L bell on it.

No leaks....sounds and shifts pretty good (holding breathe).

Third time lucky

Was physically impossible to install the long tail with the engine in place.....had to cut the tunnel between the shifter and transfer case openings to fit in place.

Just zip cut one side (3 inches) and folded it back....can be welded or urethaned back into place...no biggie.

Clutch feels good...much harder to depress than stock app.

I can tell the motor is starving for more fuel with the 32/36, jetted for a Z24.

A/F readings... idles at 12...full throttle around 14ish...light load 15-16. Hasn't seen 17 yet.....plugs look good.

Timing is set at 14 degrees....climbs to 18 with the vacuum hose from carb base hooked back up.

Slowly coming together......need a 38/38 :cool:

4200 RPM today.... :w00t:

[Sealik]

Forgot to mention.....have a slight miss at idle.

I believe it's the Weber (incorrect jets) because I'm about 2.5+ turns out on the idle mix.

[ZackTheImpaler]

Yeah, you need that 38/38

[Sealik]

Yeah, you need that 38/38

 

 

Yes...a 38..... is on the list

Like to finish the break in with the 32/36 though.

Shall investigate 'the miss'.

 

Anywho....truck looked like this 2 days ago.

 

 

 

 

Now it's somewhat back to this...

 

 

Whooops... :D

 

Here it is.... :P

 

 

Sort of.

[banzai510(hainz)]

be nice to try a 38/38 first.

as they are abit tricky on the low end starting on a hill. you could kill it or burn up a clutch. But since you motor is bigger might be better.

 

If you ever go to the STATES get soemone to get you some Felpro Gasket sets and hold them for you. they are cheap.

Byron510 always gets a few when he comes down or I give him some. of coarse the Jap anissan ones are better but Felpro is OK. Felpro intake gaskets are already to the SSS intake size of 1.5 also. Unlike the Victor Renz is 1.25in intake size.