Sealik Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Maybe Specialty Engineering in Vancouver,Ca can give better service faster in a pinch Just phoned Andy at Specialty Engineering....and he says I can run up to .170s in the stock retainer. Also explained how to determine actual lash pad size needed. Cut a small round piece off your sacrificial feeler gauge....010...install under lash pad....check wipe pattern. Who would of thunk.... :D Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Sooooo....made up some .180 lash pads and did a wipe pattern...perfect for the intakes. Cut up 3 pieces of .010 feeler gauge and fit under .150 lash pad. If you notice in the pic....the meat on the lash pad above the retainer is the same. The one on the left...intake...is shimmed up to .180.....and looks pretty much the same as the exhaust on the right, which has the .150 lash pad. My theory is that....I can run the .180s.....no problem. More of the meat is sitting below the retainer because of the shorter valve, if anything is gonna fall apart...it will be the .150s....Correct? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Here's the lash pad height....just basically raising the 1 on the left up. Both...150s Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Sooooo....made up some .180 lash pads and did a wipe pattern...perfect for the intakes. Cut up 3 pieces of .010 feeler gauge and fit under .150 lash pad. If you notice in the pic....the meat on the lash pad above the retainer is the same. The one on the left...intake...is shimmed up to .180.....and looks pretty much the same as the exhaust on the right, which has the .150 lash pad. My theory is that....I can run the .180s.....no problem. More of the meat is sitting below the retainer because of the shorter valve, if anything is gonna fall apart...it will be the .150s....Correct? Never mind....my theory is much non conducive. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 If I helped everybody I would be out of parts. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 If I helped everybody I would be out of parts. Correct.... :) But...I wouldn't ask unless I was prepared to replace and compensate. Anywho....tomorrow I'm ordering 160,170,180 and 190 x8 lash pads. 150-180 and 190-220 retainers Not sure how the new retainers will change the lash pad size...relative to stock ones.....sooooo...cover all the bases. Sure as shit..though....something will run amuk.... :D Was thinking possible coil bind on the stock inner springs..because I'm not sure if the new retainers will drop the installed spring height? Also....I think I am going to need 4 taller retainers for the exhaust?..because the valves are longer, above the keepers. Unless.... I take the head back and get the of the top exhaust valves/stems shortened...but....don't want to do that. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 On another note....spring has arrived....... :thumbup: Went outside and started installing some parts... Didn't quite have the booster in place.... :blink: ..and before I could get in the cab to bolt it in place...it dislodged and landed on the front diff...poop.... :) Had to 'repaint' Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 I dont think you need the bigger 190 retainers. long are you have the 150-180 there is enough lash underneath to hold on. But if you want them thats Ok Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 The bay is just about ready......so I decided to throw the running gear in, less the head....soon 5+ weeks before I get the retainers, lash pads and another set of springs. Can address some of the other issues....the lean Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Installed the TC assembly...bright links are matched to marks on the sprocket and crank gear. Pulley is not in all the way.... but the engine is at TDC Notch on sprocket is about 3/8 inch past the mark on head Zero slack in chain...can move crank pulley CW and CCW....sprocket mirrors movement. I have the OE L20B TC...shall count the links between the bright/timing links and compare with the new Beck Arnley Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Doug I think the bottom bright link should be just about 3:30 the top bright link should be more up, around the 2 o'clock spot. Should be 44 links. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ya....something is amuk... :) I checked the other OE chain....there are 22 sections.....between the bright links, counting the 1st bright link and not the last. Same as mine. The Z24 has 20links, L16/L18-21, Z20/Z22-19 I'm thinking the chain is just.....tight? My book, not sure of scale...but...it looks like the sprocket notch is up to 3/16 inch ahead of the notch on the head???? That's based on a new TC....in.....How To Keep Your Datsun Alive Changed the sprocket to the No 1 position....'better'....but still about 1/4 inch advanced. But...the #1 cam lobs are still closer to 11 and 3...than 10 and 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Move the sprocket CCW one tooth. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Move the sprocket CCW one tooth. Was thinking the same thing....but....bright links should line up? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Fuck the links. Maybe an L chain on a Z crank sprocket is different. Notch below and just to the right of the etch mark determines proper cam timing. Bright links are for noobs, you're way past that. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 (edited) Fuck the links. Maybe an L chain on a Z crank sprocket is different. Notch below and just to the right of the etch mark determines proper cam timing. Bright links are for noobs, you're way past that. :lol: Are the Z and L crank sprockets different? Hmmmmmm......I'll have a look............... :D It's an all L TC assembly Edit Only difference between the L and Z TC assembly is the chain and guides. Everything else has the same part no. Edited March 25, 2011 by Sealik Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ah ha.....the punch mark on the new crank gear is about 2 teeth out. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Adjusted the chain...relative to the crank. Back in #2 position on cam sprocket....perfect....notch on sprocket is slightly past notch on head/cam plate Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ah ha.....the punch mark on the new crank gear is about 2 teeth out. Ok you sure that the motor #1 piston is at the top when you have the lower crank sprokets is off 2 teeth? I just havent seen this myself. sometimes people may grap different crank pulleys and they could be marked different and see a different timming plate. so I alwasy ck to make sure those are OK and were they should be when I look at the piston is TDC. But sienc I use the orginal stuff I can usually assume its OK. I havent put a new lower gear on most times they dont wear that bad. Or maybe one motor I put a new one on. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ah ha.....the punch mark on the new crank gear is about 2 teeth out. Ok you sure that the motor #1 piston is at the top when you have the lower crank sprokets is off 2 teeth? I just havent seen this myself. sometimes people may grap different crank pulleys and they could be marked different and see a different timming plate. so I alwasy ck to make sure those are OK and were they should be when I look at the piston is TDC. But sienc I use the orginal stuff I can usually assume its OK. I havent put a new lower gear on most times they dont wear that bad. Or maybe one motor I put a new one on. Ya...the engine is at TDC. No. 1 piston up....cam lobes at 10 and 2...set at 0 degrees, woodruff key straight up. Crank pulley is from the Z22/24...L20B TC cover with Z22/Z24 timing tab/plate If I put the bright link back to the original position....cam lobes are at 11 and 3, out about 1 tooth on cam sprocket Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Needed to calibrate the engine oil level. I 'measured' the engine placement in my other 4x4, looks like it sits about 1 1/4 inch lower in the rear. And to my amazement.....it's leaning at about 8 to 10 degrees to the drivers side....thought it was around 4-6 degrees. You can tell by the bottom of the pan for comparison....sits somewhat level. Filled it with about 5 quarts in that 10 degree position while reading the Z22 dipstick....about an 1/8 inch past full. Then I rotated the engine to 4 and then 8 degrees the other way....and calibrated the dipstick to match a full oil level. I'd like to keep the engine at about 4 degrees.....just so the carb is just about level. Not sure how the engine is going to lean yet....but I'll know what length to make the dipstick at any degree. Shall re-glue the stopper on dipstick once the engine is placed. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Pulled the block from the engine stand in my 'kitchen' and took it outside for install. Could not get the Beck Arnley rear seal in.....so I grabbed another (from Japan) that I had....no problemo then. Mounted the resurfaced 240 mm flywheel. And the Exedy clutch. Shall drop the running gear in tomorrow Prior pic of primed pickup.... :D Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Getting close!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Getting close!!!!!! Ya...well...winter in 7 months also :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Shimmed and bolted the trannie mount at 10 degrees.....and pivoted the pass side Z22 MM about the same Merlin came by and helped me put the engine in....it fits....but issues. Didn't look like it would even place properly without flattening the pan in 1 (corner) spot. Cut a little out of the floor to swing the trannie/shifter more to the passenger side....into the 'correct' position. In this position I have about 1/4 inch from diff on the passenger side, lots of room on drivers side Middle of shifter is centered on the edge of the floor/tunnel opening Good thing I put the head on.....engine/valve cover sits too high, doesn't clear the hood. Not sure if that is a little too much lean for the carb....? Could bring it up a bit....but that means dropping the passenger side....which in turn means to address the oil pan. Don't want to pull it out....borrowed an air hammer.. :D ..gonna try it out on another pan I have. Problem is....it's right on a corner of the pan, a little harder to flatten Need to find a MM for the drivers side...and refit the other side No fitty Quote Link to comment
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