Sealiks Shit

[datzenmike]

As long as the oil pickup is well down in the lower section it will be fine. Maybe have the end extended?

[merlin]

I'm installing hardwood for a friend today, but we can pirate 210 head bits anytime if the work, if not, then w58

[Sealik]

As long as the oil pickup is well down in the lower section it will be fine. Maybe have the end extended?

 

Ya....actually it's not bad at all.

 

 

Those motor mounts are for the Z22 to fit in the 83+ 720. One on left is a Z24. I had to drop the 1 on the right to clear the EM.....extra holes on the block

 

I'm installing hardwood for a friend today, but we can pirate 210 head bits anytime if the work, if not, then w58

 

Actually....no problemo....I have to go down to 'The Parts Store' on Tues to pickup the TC assembly (finally), then I'll swing by that place that has the Datsuns. Shall be sporting a shovel.... :D

 

Soooo....I drilled out and re-tapped the bolts the hold the EM to the exhaust pipe. 'Slathered' with high temp paint.

Cleaned and bent the dip stick to clear.

'Manipulated' the heat shield to fit between the IM and EM.....BFH.... :lol:

Not sure of the fitting on the thermostat housing (where the copper wire is sticking out)....where does it go to?

Gonna try to get the engine to sit slightly to the left....at 1 or 2+...?.... degrees...not at 12.

Just so the IM clears the booster and the carb sits somewhat level.

Utilize the stock trannie....just shimming the trannie mount..if possible.....maybe.... :blink:

Not knowing till I 'drop' it in.

 

 

Edit...might also have to use the longer Z24 DS to read the oil level....????

Edited January 31, 2011 by Sealik

[MicroMachinery]

Just curious.. how are you planning to get that Crankcase breather in? Mine needed to be tapped in with a hammer, and I don't think I could have done it with the IM in the way. I see it hanging off to the side there...

[Sealik]

Just curious.. how are you planning to get that Crankcase breather in? Mine needed to be tapped in with a hammer, and I don't think I could have done it with the IM in the way. I see it hanging off to the side there...

 

 

Good eyes.....I needed the EM/IM in place to fit the heat shield.

Only 4 bolts holding both in place.......was also 'looking' at which way I was gonna run the pipe/plumbing.....underneath the EM to the IM...no good :)

[datzenmike]

 

Looks like the Z series PCV pipe. Just get one from an L20B you know.

.

[Sealik]

Looks like the Z series PCV pipe. Just get one from an L20B you know.

 

 

Ya....could of.....but fuck it....I like to make (attempt) my own shit work.... :D :D

By the time I drive down there.....pipes could be rusted....etc...etc.

Anywho.....cut the large one off short as possible, coming from the block. Rotated 90 degrees, reduced it with the stock rubber fitting, then utilized the rest. Slightly different config.. :) ..but....it works.

 

Voila

 

 

My only concern....might be a little close to the EM?

Clamp is about 5/8" away.

 

[Sealik]

Got the other rockers studs today....cleaned everything up and did a 'lash pad wipe pattern'.

Lash pads are .150

 

 

It looks like about 1/8 inch left on the 1 side......and a little less than 1/16 on the other.

 

Might be a little hard to tell from pics with the OE pattern still there.

 

I just did 2 exhausts....feeler gauge only had the .010

 

[Sealik]

Hainz.....looks like stock retainers.

Crappy pic....batteries in cam just calved

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude you need to put PCV valve in there or run none at all.

 

I dont run any on my sidedraft equip L motors but when the RPMs go up is sucks IN. I dont think you wan t gas getting sucked In the crank case. Im not positive on this ,maybe soembody else can say something but it would be better to plug the intake and leave the crank case open than to run it the way pictured.

 

the rocker arm lash looks a little on the close side but i guess will work.when it come to the lean on a L motor that is correct. just later trans the bellehousing is slightly clocked for this. Datsunaholic or Datzen mike will know more for sure.

 

Do the lash pads rock in the retainers abit.?

Nissanmotorsport book says you could get away doing this up to 160 I think.

But its up to you.

 

Me I would better the wipe pattern and get retainers.

 

But ck each cylinder as each one could be differnt if the valve seat was cut the the valve also cutin theroy it says the lash is too big, you could machine .010 off and see if it gets better. but you dont want to cut to much as it might be below in the New retainer.

[Sealik]

Dude you need to put PCV valve in there or run none at all.

 

I dont run any on my sidedraft equip L motors but when the RPMs go up is sucks IN. I dont think you wan t gas getting sucked In the crank case. Im not positive on this ,maybe soembody else can say something but it would be better to plug the intake and leave the crank case open than to run it the way pictured.

 

the rocker arm lash looks a little on the close side but i guess will work.when it come to the lean on a L motor that is correct. just later trans the bellehousing is slightly clocked for this. Datsunaholic or Datzen mike will know more for sure.

 

 

That is a PCV valve in the IM.....

Just measured the stock lash pad.... .163

New ones are .148

So to bring the wipe pattern closer to the center....I would need thinner pads?

 

[Sealik]

I see now....the stock lash pad is recessed....sits farther in the retainer.

 

 

Stock retainers should still be okay?

Or aftermarket?

[Sealik]

Yes....need thinner pads.

Oh...and thanks for the link Hainz.

 

http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-generic-image.php?imageName=images/the_works_escorts/pinto/pinto-rocker-ratios.gif

[banzai510(hainz)]

what haapen if you put the thinner stock lash pads in ,ck the wipe pattern again .

If you have to cut the aftermarket lash pads down then I would then mayeb run the stock retainers.Cause if you buy the aftermarket retainer the lash pad might sink below the ridge line.

 

I think what happen here is that cam isnt cut to spec. If its a regrind most are over 160 in the lash pads.

 

you measure the cam. go across the big part then measure 90 degs and subract that value(the Base Circle). then multiple it by 1.5 rocker ratio and that wwill give you a lift.

 

(jason) Wong might have this cam. ask him what size pads he used.

 

I dont know your head. If its used or you haveing it redone as things start to change when one machines ad takes material off. Most of my #s are a stock uncut head or one with minimal machining. Like didnt have the head shaved 5 times!

 

 

OK you have a PCV in there good!

make sure to put oil in oil pump first before start up.

 

I have the full DVD at home that I do a cam.

PM me your address and I can send to you. but give me a few days as I wrk late and not get to Post office

[Sealik]

what haapen if you put the thinner stock lash pads in ,ck the wipe pattern again .

If you have to cut the aftermarket lash pads down then I would then mayeb run the stock retainers.Cause if you buy the aftermarket retainer the lash pad might sink below the ridge line.

 

I think what happen here is that cam isnt cut to spec. If its a regrind most are over 160 in the lash pads.

 

you measure the cam. go across the big part then measure 90 degs and subract that value(the Base Circle). then multiple it by 1.5 rocker ratio and that wwill give you a lift.

 

(jason) Wong might have this cam. ask him what size pads he used.

 

I dont know your head. If its used or you haveing it redone as things start to change when one machines ad takes material off. Most of my #s are a stock uncut head or one with minimal machining. Like didnt have the head shaved 5 times!

 

 

OK you have a PCV in there good!

make sure to put oil in oil pump first before start up.

 

I have the full DVD at home that I do a cam.

PM me your address and I can send to you. but give me a few days as I wrk late and not get to Post office

 

 

Tried a couple of stock lash pads.

The wipe pattern looks better....??

 

 

Those are new exhaust valves, seats and guides.

The intake valves are OE....probably have a different wipe pattern then?

Have to find my .008 feller gauge to confirm.

You lost me on calculating the lift... :blink: :lol:

The widest part of the lobe is 1.533, the smallest part is 1.219..

My bill of sale from Shadbolt reads...

 

#205 duration @ .050(256 degrees advertised) .327" cam lift .491" valve lift on 109 degrees lobe C/L.

 

Datzenmike gave me stock unmilled head height....can't find it though.

Mine reads.....4.259-4.255

[banzai510(hainz)]

going by the photos the stock lash pads look good. If so you dont need new reatiners

 

going by the figures you gave me 1.533-1.219=.314 lift x 1.50(soem say 1.48)= .471 lift (actually its less if you put in your valve lash.

 

There has been controversy over regrinds and how good people grind them.

I buy new myself but I didnt actually measure my last new ones but measured 3 Delta cam regrinds and all were stcok lift but longer duration.

 

 

I would put your cam in the #2 or #3 sprocket position so you get power sooner.

[Sealik]

Hmmmmm...i see.

Thanks.

Think I'm gonna give Shadbolt a call....they got some explaining to do.

[Sealik]

Was kind of hard to tell the wipe pattern with the old wear pattern underneath.

So.....I got 2000 grit and rolled the rocker about 6 times on it.

Now 'we' can see a better wipe.....just about perfectly centered.

That is with the .150 lash pads.

 

 

Retainers now....?

What RPM would be max without loosing a lash...?... :P

 

Edit...

 

These are the correct retainers from NissanParts.cc...??

 

99996-M1050 Steel (.150-.180)

 

Couldn't find it initially...needs an M in front of it.

 

M-99996-M1050

Edited February 2, 2011 by Sealik

[banzai510(hainz)]

I will leave that up to you if you want to put new retainers in.

But on olddatsuns.com has the part listing and mention you have to put a M in front of the part number for it to come up.

 

last time I got retainers there were 5$ apc(aluminum ones) which is cheap insurance. to help prevent a pad from falling out. Plus you have them in case you want to go bigger later.

 

But if the Ratsun in you is saying run them, go ahead but you have to keep a tighter lash on the rocker so the lash pad dont fall out. I had a stock lash pad fall out. and you know they are down in there cause they are counter sunk.

 

as for Shadebolt. Your waisting your time. Maybe the grinder is worn?

i emailed Delta and they wouldnt get back to me. Lucky for me they were only 33$ apc as I had 3 cores also. So I guess you get what you pay for.

 

If you paid less than 100$ I woulnd worry about it. But I would hope that I ordered a cam that is advertised.

 

oNly way to ck people is get a true scale with a roller and you can measure the difference while its turing.

 

the 510 realm guys have more exp with shadbolt and Colt cams I think its is.Ask Byron 510 as think he ran a few of them.

 

 

also I havent ordered from a motorsport part for a long time and I know motorsport moved to Tennesee

1 888 833 3225I dont know if its cheaper to go thru nissaprts.cc or straight from motorsport but i think there is a difference.

[Sealik]

I will leave that up to you if you want to put new retainers in.

But on olddatsuns.com has the part listing and mention you have to put a M in front of the part number for it to come up.

 

last time I got retainers there were 5$ apc(aluminum ones) which is cheap insurance. to help prevent a pad from falling out. Plus you have them in case you want to go bigger later.

 

But if the Ratsun in you is saying run them, go ahead but you have to keep a tighter lash on the rocker so the lash pad dont fall out. I had a stock lash pad fall out. and you know they are down in there cause they are counter sunk.

 

as for Shadebolt. Your waisting your time. Maybe the grinder is worn?

i emailed Delta and they wouldnt get back to me. Lucky for me they were only 33$ apc as I had 3 cores also. So I guess you get what you pay for.

 

If you paid less than 100$ I woulnd worry about it. But I would hope that I ordered a cam that is advertised.

 

oNly way to ck people is get a true scale with a roller and you can measure the difference while its turing.

 

the 510 realm guys have more exp with shadbolt and Colt cams I think its is.Ask Byron 510 as think he ran a few of them.

 

 

also I havent ordered from a motorsport part for a long time and I know motorsport moved to Tennesee

1 888 833 3225I dont know if its cheaper to go thru nissaprts.cc or straight from motorsport but i think there is a difference.

 

The grind was the #449.... $214 with lash pads and taxes, not including shipping to Vancouver and back.

In hindsight....would of bought new....but....learn from our (my) mistakes.

The price including shipping to Canada for those retainers from Nissanparts.cc is 92 bucks

Just 'wiped' all the exhaust....looks good....I think.

 

 

When I get a feeler gauge for the intake....was thinking of spinning it over a few times with lube and checking all the valve clearances again....? A little less resistance checking the lash.....being that's dry and with felt pen on it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Like I said before I do mine .006in and .008 exhaust. if its too tight you will know as you loose a cylinder. like you have no spark. means it letting the intake chrge blow out. its sparking just no exploding.

 

I dont know what your going to say about the cam to him? its not 491! he say Yeah it is and youll say No it isnt.

But looking at the photo its a regrind. Looks good tho!I think youll be fine. just order a .500 lift next time then youll get a .480

 

ANOTHER THING

I only see the outer spring. wheres the inner one.? most likely the inner will stack up coil bind first. if a real high lift cam.

only thing I can think off YOUR BUDDY Machinist putsa real big one that will cover Both the outter and inner spring strength?

[Sealik]

Like I said before I do mine .006in and .008 exhaust. if its too tight you will know as you loose a cylinder. like you have no spark. means it letting the intake chrge blow out. its sparking just no exploding.

 

I dont know what your going to say about the cam to him? its not 491! he say Yeah it is and youll say No it isnt.

But looking at the photo its a regrind. Looks good tho!I think youll be fine. just order a .500 lift next time then youll get a .480

 

ANOTHER THING

I only see the outer spring. wheres the inner one.? most likely the inner will stack up coil bind first. if a real high lift cam.

only thing I can think off YOUR BUDDY Machinist putsa real big one that will cover Both the outter and inner spring strength?

 

 

No it isn't.........Yes...it is......ha ha....oh well. :lol:

 

Here's the specs on the springs.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

these are the Nissan motorsport specs springs

280Lb/in has a OD 1.34 abd cooil bind at .970 seat pressure of 120pounds.

 

YOu sure you suppose to run only one spring. never head of this?. Maybe he meant run the stock inner and use this Comp Cam Outer spring???????.Then you got to ck for coil bind,as the inners bind first.

As I do this my self is one stock srping and use one motorsport one to keep the seat pressure down as it not a HUGE cam .

[Sealik]

these are the Nissan motorsport specs springs

280Lb/in has a OD 1.34 abd cooil bind at .970 seat pressure of 120pounds.

 

YOu sure you suppose to run only one spring. never head of this?. Maybe he meant run the stock inner and use this Comp Cam Outer spring???????.Then you got to ck for coil bind,as the inners bind first.

As I do this my self is one stock srping and use one motorsport one to keep the seat pressure down as it not a HUGE cam .

 

 

When I dropped the block and head off....I mentioned the lift of the cam....491

He said that was good to know.....

Never really expected him to deal with the springs....or install....but, I guess he did some cross referencing and came up with springs from a 2800cc Ford engine.

I knew I needed springs...so it really wasn't of issue with me.

 

They should be okay?

[banzai510(hainz)]

springs?

They should be okay?

 

 

Fuck if I know, I never heard of running only one set of springs.What your machinist say?

What does other Datsun guys say/ I only get the Motorsport springs which is most likey Isky, I have a Schneider set also. What I do since my 2 motors I built are under 475 lift. I use one stock spring and one motor sport spring. Since I dont need to high of pressure for a daily driver and usually dont exceed 7K anyways as most distributor cut out by then anyways.

 

I think you should run 2 springs and make sure to put the metal seat that the iner spring sits on back in so it dont guall up the head. If it isnt toss out already.

 

another thing. Im not positive but i think you would want the PCV valve horizantal so its level.

Having it straight up like that might cause it to close cause of Gravity. all the ones I see are sideways.