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Sealik

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So the shifter will not move further right than the 3-4 gate??

 

Just for laughs... put in 4th and turn the input shaft... does the output turn in reverse??

 

 

Put it in fourth....output spins the same direction as input shaft.

Also of note.....the input shaft seems to spin more freely than the other trannie I have????

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... because you drained the oil? :lol:

 

Shift gate is out of alignment??

 

 

Nah....other trannie has no oil in it and it has more resistance when spinning input shaft...noticable difference.

How do I check shift gate alignment.

Got a feeling I'll be disassembling.... :blink:..... :D

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transFS5W71Bin5th001.jpg

 

Middle page far right. You can seethe ends of the shift forks have 'brackets' on the end. In neutral they all line up so the 'striking lever' can move sideways through the gate. In the picture the bottom 5th/Rev is not lined up, in fact it's in 5th gear when taken apart.

 

The shift rods have 3 small grooves cut in them and spring loaded 'detent balls' that drop into the groove and help hold it in either of the two gears and the neutral position. If the spring broke the shift rod might wander of the neutral and the striking rod may not be able to get over into the bracket.

 

The bracket itself may have come loose and slipped.It'd keld on with a roll pin.

 

.

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I see..sort of... :blink: ... :D

So....after complete disassembly

 

62f.jpg

 

I determined that the plunger/return spring was NFG, seized. :D

Plug and spring removed..plunger is rusted in there.

 

62g.jpg

 

Gonna assume that is the reason for no 5th or reverse

From what I can tell, which isn't much.. ;) ...trannie looks good.

Has the larger 62 mm counter shaft bearing

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Probably got water in the shifter end. Spray and heat it with torch and wiggle the shifter towards 5th gate... should pop out. That's the thing that centers the shifter in the neutral gate when you let go of it.

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Probably got water in the shifter end. Spray and heat it with torch and wiggle the shifter towards 5th gate... should pop out. That's the thing that centers the shifter in the neutral gate when you let go of it.

 

Thanks for the input....replaced the plunger and spring, cleaned and reassembled the trannie.

Sooo...... finally got my.....Valve Spring Retainers 99996-M1152 Alum (.150-.180) from NissanParts.CC

Something is amuk......

 

lashp.jpg

 

The .150 lash pads no fit....or the stock ones for that matter......WTF?

Need special pads...?

Also notice they are not as wide as the stock retainer....but fit better (tighter) on the inner spring.

Lovely. :blink:

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Thanks for the input....replaced the plunger and spring, cleaned and reassembled the trannie.

Sooo...... finally got my.....Valve Spring Retainers 99996-M1152 Alum (.150-.180) from NissanParts.CC

Something is amuk......

 

lashp.jpg

 

The .150 lash pads no fit....or the stock ones for that matter......WTF?

Need special pads...?

Also notice they are not as wide as the stock retainer....but fit better (tighter) on the inner spring.

Lovely. :blink:

 

Aren't those Ford springs?

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Aren't those Ford springs?

 

Ya.....'same' as stock but with more seat pressure and less coils in spring to 'eliminate' coil bind

Stock on left....Ford on right.

 

comps.jpg

 

Installed a retainer...unless these are the wrong ones...or I need special lash pads.

 

lashpp.jpg

 

Also notice the spring is more collapsed with the new retainers, would have to check for inner coil bind again, if I used them.

Most likely assemble engine without.

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On another mechanical conundrum.....

If I was to hazard a guess.....one could assume that the groove on the outside of the valve guide correspond with the lower band on the seal???

3 out of the 4 exhaust guides replaced are like this....hmmmmmm.

For comparison....the 2nd valve guide in pic (intake) is OE....the band and groove line right up.

vguide.jpg

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Man they dont look like mine.

 

I'll call them...and most likely ship them back.

But.... I can't wait another 5 weeks for another set.

So.....I'll assemble the engine with the stock retainers, with the .150 lash pads...no over revving... :D

I have to take the head back and get that 1 valve guide dropped a mm and or, to install the inner spring shim....or... I could just file the inside of the shim to clear and drop flush to the head....?

But.....my other concern is that the grooves on the exterior of the new valve guides do not match the valve stem seals.

Is that worthy of concern when I talk to the machinist?

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Something isn't right there. It looks like someone pressed the wrong valve guides into the head, or perhaps a different year of Datsun valve guides. I would definitely take back to the machinist. All those have to be at the same height, that's where the ring inside the valve stem seal seats so it doesn't pop off.

 

NAPA may well have valve guides in stock, you could go look, verify which were correct, then bring the parts to your machinist, though they should have them in stock.

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Something isn't right there. It looks like someone pressed the wrong valve guides into the head, or perhaps a different year of Datsun valve guides. I would definitely take back to the machinist. All those have to be at the same height, that's where the ring inside the valve stem seal seats so it doesn't pop off.

 

NAPA may well have valve guides in stock, you could go look, verify which were correct, then bring the parts to your machinist, though they should have them in stock.

 

 

Ya....road trip tomorrow......

Seems I can't win for loosing..... :unsure:

 

Thanks Matt

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Well.....one thing went right on the 'build' today..... :)

Towed the truck with my other 720 down the road to paint the engine bay.

Everything under the hood, including the front end was removed......to complete the color 'swap'.

 

transfer.jpg

 

P1010007-2.jpg

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Installed a retainer...unless these are the wrong ones...or I need special lash pads.

 

lashpp.jpg

 

Those retainers look like they are for an A series engine. The OD is too small for the spring and the lash pad counter bore not big enough. The A series engines use a small cup that goes over the stem of the valve to adjust rocker arm geometry, same idea as the L series, but without the rocker slot and with a smaller OD.

 

I'd bet these are A series retainers, they certainly are not L series.

 

When you return them, IMO you should ask for the steel spring retainers. I have had aluminum L series retainers split in a race enggine. Never had an issue with the steel ones.

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Those retainers look like they are for an A series engine. The OD is too small for the spring and the lash pad counter bore not big enough. The A series engines use a small cup that goes over the stem of the valve to adjust rocker arm geometry, same idea as the L series, but without the rocker slot and with a smaller OD.

 

I'd bet these are A series retainers, they certainly are not L series.

 

When you return them, IMO you should ask for the steel spring retainers. I have had aluminum L series retainers split in a race enggine. Never had an issue with the steel ones.

 

 

Thanks.....phoned Nissanparts.cc on Monday about this and was suppose to get a call back on Tues from the shipper.

No call.....yet..... :angry:

Shall phone them back next week.

 

Anywho....finally got my head shipped back to me with the new and 'improved' exhaust valves.....yaaaaa.

Should have the engine assembled tomorrow. :D

Also just finished the engine bay....

 

ebay.jpg

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Just did a wipe pattern on the 4 exhausts...perfectly centered on the rocker, with the .150 pads.

The first intake I did was off a bit..looks like I'm going to have to mix and match the rockers... ...relative to the pivot studs...since I only have 1 thickness of lash pad. :D

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My theory didn't work. :blink:

The .150 lash pads sit deeper in the stock retainer, because of the new intake valves.

The valve height above the keepers is different between the intakes and exhausts.

The wipe pattern is now closer to the pivot side of the rocker, to remedy this I need .160 + pads.....which in turn means I need the .150-.180 retainers.

By the time I ship the wrong retainers back....and they order and ship some new ones back to me.......most likely 2 months.

Excellent.............not.

Gonna have an aneurysm.... :unsure: ...

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One way that might work is they suppeosed to measure the ends(tops of the valves and they can cut them to make them the same size.

But lashes are cheap.

 

When I do my motors I have the whole assortment of sizes 150 up to 200

 

 

PS long as the wipe pattern isnt falling off the rocker it might still be OK. I ccould just mark it and put the bigger lash pad in later.

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One way that might work is they suppeosed to measure the ends(tops of the valves and they can cut them to make them the same size.

But lashes are cheap.

 

When I do my motors I have the whole assortment of sizes 150 up to 200

 

 

If I locate some 160s....won't I need the 150-180 retainers also....?

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I would use the retainers if you had them but as Dave said look like you have A series ones( I never seen what A series ones look like but I know they are not L series).

The Motorsport book says you can run up to .160 I believe with stock retainers. But Myself I would get the 150-180 retainers just for the pc of mind you know they have more support and wont fly off.

 

If your in a rush to get motor running you can wing it. If you got time I would wait and get the correct stuff.

 

I have not ordered from the Nissan Motorsport Tennessee since they moved so I assume the experts are still in Calif and maybe this stuff gets, got mixed up in the move and these guys are not really nissan motor experst that work there and wont catch the difference when they pick a order.

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Maybe Specialty Engineering in Vancouver,Ca can give better service faster in a pinch

 

Ya...needed to get this truck on the road before my DD insurance expires in 2+ weeks

I was thinking...banzai510 could help me out a little quicker...?... :D

Nudge....nudge....wink....wink. :lol:

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