datzenmike Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 If the spring breaks the valve will drop in the cylinder if only one spring. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I do have the metal seats (good shape still) and the stock inner springs. Hmmmmmm...not knowing.....I'll phone my machinist....see what he says. Good point though Mike......if outer spring calves...still have the inner. Might have to put a 90 degree elbow on PCV Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 <br />If the spring breaks the valve will drop in the cylinder if only one spring.<br /><br /><br /><br />Good point! What effect would leaving the inner spring in there as well(considering the new outer spring rate) have on things? Doug will use this thing more for torque than rev's, but ... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 New spring on right, with stock 1 inside. Would assume the stock inner is not advisable to use...? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 As long as it won't bind I would think about running them. The total difference betrween stock inners and outers AND the the new ones, is the Ford outers are about 15 pounds more. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 I just emailed Comp Cams Tech Support. Gave them the specs. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 As long as it won't bind I would think about running them. The total difference betrween stock inners and outers AND the the new ones, is the Ford outers are about 15 pounds more. Okay...I located a C-clamp to compress and remove the large springs.....are there any tips on checking the smaller spring for binding,...or just a visual? ..."When the valve spring is compressed until its coils touch one another and can travel no further, it is said to be in coil bind. The catalog shows the approximate coil bind height for the various Crane Cams valve springs. To measure this you must install the retainer in the valve spring, then compress the spring until it coil binds. Now measure from the bottom side of the retainer to the bottom of the spring. This measurement is the coil bind height. This can be done on the cylinder head with a spring compression tool (part number 99417-1), in a bench vise, or in a professional valve spring tester".. I see now..... :) Coil bind height on the smaller spring is .914" Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 springs? They should be okay? Fuck if I know, I never heard of running only one set of springs.What your machinist say? What does other Datsun guys say/ I only get the Motorsport springs which is most likey Isky, I have a Schneider set also. What I do since my 2 motors I built are under 475 lift. I use one stock spring and one motor sport spring. Since I dont need to high of pressure for a daily driver and usually dont exceed 7K anyways as most distributor cut out by then anyways. I think you should run 2 springs and make sure to put the metal seat that the iner spring sits on back in so it dont guall up the head. If it isnt toss out already. another thing. Im not positive but i think you would want the PCV valve horizantal so its level. Having it straight up like that might cause it to close cause of Gravity. all the ones I see are sideways. Was going to install the smaller springs and do a visual on any binding...? I have to remove the valve stem seal to replace the washer...so......not sure how I should go about that without damaging it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 .910 shit, that's tons. The outer will bind first Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 (edited) .910 shit, that's tons. The outer will bind first Just about...the large outer springs are rated at 1.054. If I do add all the smaller springs.....might have to remove the cam towers. That style of clamp....doesn't fit that well over the retainers....to close....marks the tower up. Also....I'm thinking of a rag 'over' some pliers....and yank off the valve stem seals...? Spring height with retainer (measured underneath) is 1.762 Sooo.....1.762-1.054= .708 available The widest part of the cam lobe is 1.533, the smallest part is 1.219...difference of .314 Hmmmmmm....I think it might work.....and somewhat confused :lol: Edit Think my calculations are amuk...need installed spring height and a few other unknown variables :D Edited February 4, 2011 by Sealik Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 if your cam is really 470 lift it will be fine. One way to cheat it is have the head milled a bit to lower the seat that the steel washer sits on.But you wont need to do this. what I do is have all the parts ready and I give it to the machinist to install. The outer sping will not coil bind w your cam. if you use the stock inner it might come close but yourll be fine as the 475 lift cams its says its OK to use the stock springs(nissanmotorsport book). I jusr install the cam set the rocket or with valve lash and turn it till lobe is full load pushing down and I look with a light and see. Now I dont so the the stem seals myself but new ones are cheap at the local parts store(Felpro Head gasket set). . But I wlill use the nissan ones if I ever do anther motor. To some this up you hould have cked here before getting ahead of your self and now you got to tear things back apart. I would get the 150-180 retainers also. Crap just buy the Nssan springs in the first place ans maybe just use the inner ones and stock outer,and the extra for another motor later. Its the inner ones that look like they will coil bind first. when I did my first motor. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Pulled 1 valve stem seal out...looks good.....pretty much unscathed... :lol: Installed the smaller spring, checked for coil bind and did a wipe pattern. The spring looks okay......no coil bind.... :thumbup: Wipe pattern looks okay.....exhaust valve was set at .008 Looks a little closer to the valve side, I read somewhere...that one can cheat and have this position for a quieter valves? Will assume that is not recommended? Also....will a tighter lash, will that change the position of the wipe pattern? You say you run yours at .006 and .008 Will order those retainers later today...aluminum or steel? Gonna see if I can locate a different style of spring compressor, don't want to pull the towers and cam. Edit....re-read your post Hainz.....will order the aluminum....cheaper...good. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 I think everything is fine so far. Nice close photos are good. Yes I would get the aluminum retainers just to be on the safe side.Just put one in first o make ure the lash pad dont sunk below the retainer. hopefully its a perfect FLUSH fit. Yes I dont like to take the towers off either. My last machinist did, I say you shouldnt have to, He said, it was EZer to get the valve springs but my head needed to be machined on top anyway(warped bad on both sides,cam hard to turn). Went to install the towers, 2 holes got ruin. Helicoil!! and lucky its only 10 pounds to put the bolts in to hold the towers.I think everything is fine that you have done so far. I think I would set the cam to 2 or 3 on sprocket if a L20. make sure you fill the oil pump. I would break ths motor in with the 32/36 you have . But most pwer will be made using a 38/38 or SUs(if good ones exist) or Mikunis/DCOEs. However for off road ,logging trail mayeb a DGV would be better. But dont be surprised when you drive it with a DGV youll say I put this amount of money in this to only have a 5 hp improvement!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Ya.....when I got my head back, with the towers removed, 2 short holes that hold the towers were stripped near the top. Needless to say, I was never informed of this. But, that side of the tower is also held by the head bolts. Anywho...there was about 1/4" left in the hole, re-tapped, got a few longer bolts, good to go. :) You are saying....5HP from the 32/36 to the DGV, not 5 HP over stock I hope..... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 So...while I'm waiting for the other parts I decided to do some plumbing on the engine and see how the new Clevite TC assembly 'fit'. Not impressed.....other than 1 piece, everything looked good. Anyone tell what I am talking about?... :D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Get ridd of that sprocket. melling and Cloyes sells them. cant see the cam timming cause the inspection hole is in the way.get a Jap one. Beck Arnley,OSK and Tsubaki. Maybe even carquest sells the good ones. look on Rockauto.com for photos you can see what they look like. the 4 hole ones The Jap ones have the 2 brite links and the sproket w the 4 holes. Just incase you want o adv the cam then loose your marks you can always realign it back up cause you can actually see where your marks are at. Like the first 10min of my vid on how to see the timming mark in the book i show. With your sprocket youll never know http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Get ridd of that sprocket. melling and Cloyes sells them. cant see the cam timming cause the inspection hole is in the way.get a Jap one. Beck Arnley,OSK and Tsubaki. Maybe even carquest sells the good ones. look on Rockauto.com for photos you can see what they look like. the 4 hole ones The Jap ones have the 2 brite links and the sproket w the 4 holes. Just incase you want o adv the cam then loose your marks you can always realign it back up cause you can actually see where your marks are at. Like the first 10min of my vid on how to see the timming mark in the book i show. With your sprocket youll never know http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=8EF51386855F2B58 YOU WIN!!!! Have no door prize for you though.... :lol: Ya...it's going back.....because it's a 3 hole and the 2 marks on the chain are painted on. Took a month to get it. Hopefully the replacement shall be quicker Remember......things are a little slow up here...Canada and all....eh..... :D Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 1521 Oil filter works just as good, and costs about half as much :) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 1521 Oil filter works just as good, and costs about half as much :) Gonna assume that is a Napa? No Napa here. Basically 1 auto parts store in town. Up here we can add 30% (minimum) on parts....relative to what you pay. That sucks I can get parts shipped from the States to my door cheaper than the local parts store. Example....the dizzy module from the US (Ebay) was 19 bucks including delivery....here it's 38. What did you pay for your TC assembly? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 TC? I'm assuming Timing Chain... I piece-mealed mine together. Timing Chain(x2)- $17.08 Timing Chain Guide- $9.44 Timing Chain Guide- $6.60 Timing Chain Tensioner- $8.68 So total, I paid $41.80 plus shipping for the timing components and two chains... all OSK, I believe... all Japanese. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 (edited) TC? Your Beck Arnley timing chain assembly....all the parts Edit You had to buy them individually....correct? Don't think they have a kit/assembly....nothing is listed in their catalog Edited February 5, 2011 by Sealik Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 TC? I'm assuming Timing Chain... I piece-mealed mine together. Timing Chain(x2)- $17.08 Timing Chain Guide- $9.44 Timing Chain Guide- $6.60 Timing Chain Tensioner- $8.68 So total, I paid $41.80 plus shipping for the timing components and two chains... all OSK, I believe... all Japanese. I wish.....the Cloyes was priced over 2 hundred bucks. :o I think the local parts store can get the Beck Arnley, shall order them (pieces) tomorrow Gonna bet it will be about 160....at least. Paid 110 for the crappy Clevite...and waited a month to keep the shipping costs down Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 F-that. Go to rockauto.com Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 F-that. Go to rockauto.com I checked....shipping is fucked from them to Canada Can't remember what it was.....small item.....about 30 bucks....and 85 for shipping.....WTF? Then.....if UPS gets hold of it...look out......have duty on top of that. Got us by the balls........... :lol: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Damn. That sucks man. Quote Link to comment
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