Sealik Posted January 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 I can see an easy 800 buck bill for the head.........crap. So......I made up a EGR block off plate for the IM......and bashed the heat shield into submission to make it fit again. :D Will have to cut it back to fit around the EM.....once I assemble. Also cleaned up the '69 EM....somewhat Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted January 17, 2011 Report Share Posted January 17, 2011 good job looks good Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 good job looks good Thanks man.....just waiting on a few more parts.... TC assembly and rear cap side seals. And of course the head and block..... :) Should have it assembled on the weekend....next issue is 'getting' the truck out of 'storage'. Probably have to winch it out....through the snow. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Figured I was picking up the block and head today......wrong. The guy ordered Comp springs from Cali for it.... Says the stock springs will bind with the .491 lift. Ka........ching. Oh.....well.... :blink: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Shuffled some 720s today.... :D Yanked this one out....from my outdoor shop....brrrrr Dug this one out from a tent in the front 40..... Motor is just about ready to pull.... for the engine bay detail...etc......start that tomorrow. The Weber underneath the air cleaner shall go the LZ23....for now :) Finish the color 'swap'.....charcoal beige metallic Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Mounted the Weber....had to flip the throttle linkage 180 degrees to make it work. I plugged this hole..(where the screwdriver is pointing)....correct?....it did have a fitting on it prior. But..in this app..and seeing that it is not going to be circulating back through the head......???? Not knowing. Where the screwdriver is pointing. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Just read part of the LZ22 Engine thread.... Mike says..... ..." This can be run with or without the water intake. You don't need to plug the holes. The intake gasket will seal it just fine. If you are running an intake with water in the runners the outlet, in front of the carb base, must be plumbed into the return lower rad hose inlet to the timing cover"... Guess I'll be plumbing it in. :) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Still waiting on the block/head......actually the valve springs, coming from down south. Got my clutch today.....mmmmm....made in Japan. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Road trip......LZ23 in kitchen tomorrow.... :D Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 My beer fund is now somewhat compromised.......... :D He found some Comp springs from a Ford 2800CC engine to fit. Here are the specs Ka ching.... Now the fun begins.... :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Good to know Doug. The L20B and Z24 spring pressures are 108 @ 1.16" lift and 115 @ 1.18" lift Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Good to know Doug. The L20B and Z24 spring pressures are 108 @ 1.16" lift and 115 @ 1.18" lift So that should be acceptable with the .491 lift....? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Can't find any info on the amount of lbs needed to torque the rocker studs....any idea...?. Noticed on the bill of a 'resurface head surface'......the head measures 4.256....no need for cam tower shims correct? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Run what you have. Higher lift needs stronger springs. Rocker pivot torque? I'll ask.... asking, hang on.. The thickness from the valve cover gasket surface down to the head gasket surface on an un-shaved L head is 4.248" from the factory. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Run what you have. Higher lift needs stronger springs. Rocker pivot torque? I'll ask.... asking, hang on.. The thickness from the valve cover gasket surface down to the head gasket surface on an un-shaved L head is 4.248" from the factory. Got the amount of torque....18 ft lbs....slightly slathered in oil.... :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Beat me. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Ya......got hold of my machinist.... :) Already looks like I have a problem....fuck.....the short (1 3/4") bolt that holds the one side of the cam tower seem to be somewhat stripped...dropped it into the hole....and it's sitting just about flush. Won't even tighten up. :angry: Just on the 3rd cam tower Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Looks like there is about 1/4 inch left in the head before the stock bolt bottoms out. Shall re-tap and find a longer bolt. Good thing is.... that one side of the cam tower is also held by the head bolt. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 When all bolted down (without rockers) be sure the cam will spin by hand inside the towers. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Yes...that is good know. Please don't hesitant on any further input... :) Could use a few more 'eyes'.... :D So.....on another shitty note....the threads in the head have to be cleaned/tapped to accept the rocker pivot studs. Should of checked the holes prior... :blink: ...never assume.....couldn't get one to seat in the head without exceeding 18 lb. Think I went a little farther than I should of...ooops...:)..when I backed it out I picked up some crud and slightly scored the threads. No tap that size....soooooo...I can find another sacrificial stud to tap the hole. How do I cut/prep the threads? Large hammer...??? :lol: Not impressed. Studs and towers should of been re-installed.....head was 'intact' when dropped off.....less cam/rockers. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Use a grinder down one side so the threads are not damaged and wipe a little grease on it to hold the crap. . Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Ahhhhh.......gonna pull them all and re-tap. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 So....managed to seat the 1 rocker stud. The threads near the bottom of the hole were somewhat NFG for some reason. Grinded the side of a bolt as per Mikes instructions....in and out...many times to re-tap the hole. Got some longer bolts for the cam towers...worked out good....cam spins....no anomalies. Need a couple more rocker studs....2 are fucked/threads are damaged.....Merlin...:)...? Mocked the engine up to see how it sits....relative to carb (level) and pan......hmmmmmm....not good. I can see some issues...... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 One of my valve cover bolt holes is stripped out. :rolleyes: I get all pissed then I come home and read your thread... makes me feel like a crybaby. Lookin' good man. Keep at it. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 One of my valve cover bolt holes is stripped out. :rolleyes: I get all pissed then I come home and read your thread... makes me feel like a crybaby. Lookin' good man. Keep at it. :D Quote Link to comment
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