Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Damn. That sucks man. Well...just tried Rockauto...62 bucks for the Cloyes TC assembly....punched in my postal code to get shipping costs and they stated my PO does not exist 'anymore'.... :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 ...62 bucks for the Cloyes TC assembly Dont Buy Cloyes!!!!!!! melling or Clivite.. they usa a USA made Chain and Taiwan chain. the rest is OK. There other stuff might be OK for USA made V8s but these or just pc together with whatever. the chain since you have the paint marks on there is OK I say just find a Jap sprocket. and call it good. I have never run a Taiwan chain. I guess we'll find out. Contack Jason on here. hes from Vancouver. I cant believe Lordco dont sell these. Specialy Engineering should have these also but dont know how much they mark it up Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 ...62 bucks for the Cloyes TC assembly Dont Buy Cloyes!!!!!!! melling or Clivite.. they usa a USA made Chain and Taiwan chain. the rest is OK. There other stuff might be OK for USA made V8s but these or just pc together with whatever. the chain since you have the paint marks on there is OK I say just find a Jap sprocket. and call it good. I have never run a Taiwan chain. I guess we'll find out. Contack Jason on here. hes from Vancouver. I cant believe Lordco dont sell these. Specialy Engineering should have these also but dont know how much they mark it up No Cloyes..etc....was just trying to get a price comparison. Cloyes, Clevite and Melling(?) are 3 hole......the 'rest' are 4 or 8 hole. Come to think of it.....I pulled a chain a while back, still had the paint on the side of it. Only option here is the Beck Arnley....gonna run down in a bit and price/order. Closet Lordco is 110 km away. The Clevite TC kit/box says Made in Japan.....but the guides say Taiwan Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 85 more bucks for the Beck Arnley kit, after I return the Clevite.... :blink: So....basically 200 If I keep the Clevite assembly and replace with a Beck Arnley gear .....50 bucks....total 165 Think I'll go with the Beck Arnley kit. Ka ching. Was checking out the other style of valve spring compressors, looks like one would still have to remove the cam to access. Might as well pull the towers then; and use the c-clamp style. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 After installing the side seals...I noticed the rear cap is sitting in a bit from the back of the block....? Is that where it sits? Wouldn't think so...? Should it be (tried) moved back? Anybody comment on this before the sealant sets.....although I believe he sealed the inside of the cap....so I'm not sure if it will move without breaking that seal. Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I have a spring compressor ... I'm down at North Thompson till 2-30... I'm zinc phosphate coating that other 510 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I have a spring compressor ... I'm down at North Thompson till 2-30... I'm zinc phosphate coating that other 510 Excellent....still waiting for some input on my crisis though....lol Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I'm almost done, I'll swing by with it on my way home. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Excellent....still waiting for some input on my crisis though....lol :console: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 After installing the side seals...I noticed the rear cap is sitting in a bit from the back of the block....? what was it before you pulled it.? if the cap is torq down call it good. I wasnt breaking your balls about the timming chain but if cash is a issue just get the cam sprocket.then call it good when building a motor its best to plan 6months in advance so you get the best parts at the best price. when you want it now you usually pay more for the crappiest parts. Not that these parts are that bad, but there are OEM stuff at good prices. I have some taiwan pistons if I would have known it was taiwan believe me I would not get them but they have been fine on one L16 for 40k(not in a vehicle now) I researched later and found soem USA made ones same price. so I rather buy from here than Taiwan ,China ectt..... However the USA made Cam sprocket and the lseries rocker arms are the WORST!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 After installing the side seals...I noticed the rear cap is sitting in a bit from the back of the block....? what was it before you pulled it.? if the cap is torq down call it good. I wasnt breaking your balls about the timming chain but if cash is a issue just get the cam sprocket.then call it good when building a motor its best to plan 6months in advance so you get the best parts at the best price. when you want it now you usually pay more for the crappiest parts. Not that these parts are that bad, but there are OEM stuff at good prices. I have some taiwan pistons if I would have known it was taiwan believe me I would not get them but they have been fine on one L16 for 40k(not in a vehicle now) I researched later and found soem USA made ones same price. so I rather buy from here than Taiwan ,China ectt..... However the USA made Cam sprocket and the lseries rocker arms are the WORST!!!!!!! I pulled the caps and crank....the machine shop installed the whole bottom end. Resized the rods....bored to 89 mill...etc. NPR pistons and rings out of Japan I believe. Top Line bearings out of Israel of all places. Guess the metal can't be too bad....they do make some pretty good tanks I hear.... :lol: Can't remember where the cap sat....it is torqued. Ya... I know you're not busting my 'balls'.... :lol:....and the cash is not of issue.. :rolleyes: ..but it sucks when we north of the border pay 2,3,4 times the cost for the same part. Not buying the cheapest or the most expensive parts.....just the best bang for the buck and availability :) Including the clutch......the total cost will be around 2500...'hopefully' :blink: The block and head was over 1300 from the machine shop.....I supplied all parts for the block....which included ARP studs for the rods Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 PS was a given. 1 maybe 2 brackets to finish...and some paint of course :D The top upper 3 bolts/holes that line up (horizontally)will have a bracket 'tying' them together. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 So...I talked to the machinist to confirm that he sealed the rear crank cap.. Nope...................WTF? Great...now I have to pull the cap, with the side seals already installed. This technique worked rather well...should of tried it earlier. Use the bolts to lever. Removed the cap, cleaned up the side seals, installed the rear oil seal slathered in sealant, got the rear cap flush with the back of the block, then torqued it in. Now the sides seals....got 1 in....the other separated from the wire within itself.....would not go. Tried a few different ways to get it in....nope...it's fucked. Guess they are only good for 1 install :P Not knowing if Nissan has them, local parts store has no listing, there were 2 available on Ebay. Now I'm getting the 2nd. Datsun kaos factor Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 Had a 'lull from winter' today... :thumbup: ...so I decided to yank the Z24 out... Engine/trannie will most likely get dropped into another 4x4 I have. 3-4 weeks before I get the Beck Arnley timing chain 'assembly'. :blink: Gives me quite a bit of time to clean, paint..etc. the engine bay. Nissanparts.CC has shipped the valve spring retainers, then I can finish the top end. Quote Link to comment
steve g Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 Had a 'lull from winter' today... :thumbup: ...so I decided to yank the Z24 out... Engine/trannie will most likely get dropped into another 4x4 I have. 3-4 weeks before I get the Beck Arnley timing chain 'assembly'. :blink: Gives me quite a bit of time to clean, paint..etc. the engine bay. Nissanparts.CC has shipped the valve spring retainers, then I can finish the top end. PLEASE dont tell me that engine sled is a power window door Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 PLEASE dont tell me that engine sled is a power window door Fuck ya.... ;) Actually...the extra PW/PL doors I have are stored, that's just my sacrificial 'sled door'.....the standard 'accessory' in most models :D It has become rather handy..... :) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Well...painting the engine bay led to removing a little more than 'anticipated'.... :D Which was pretty much everything Re-taped the harness and bagged it....etc...etc. Oh....well.....do it right the 'first' time :) Quote Link to comment
Hyspeedz Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Looking good, Sealik! You are one creative dude. Good luck with the projects. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Looking good, Sealik! You are one creative dude. Good luck with the projects. Thanks man.....I'll post some of my other projects (carpentry) one day.... :) Anywho....still waiting on the TC assembly, valve spring retainers, side seals....and of course winter to somewhat subside. Painted all the parts underneath the hood and a few on the motor. Made up a 'pattern' for a bracket to stabilize the tensioner and PS pump. Weld it on the left....bolt it on the right. Here's a 'winter interlude pic'....'shop' can be split in two for travel. :P Actually.... it's deceivingly nice inside....here's my 'work bench'.... :D Much to do yet... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 So....finally got the Beck Arnley TC assembly. All the components are BC.....but.....WTF is this? Has the right part number on the box..025-0266.....think someone might have switched them. Says U20 on the right hand side of the gear. Shall be going back tomorrow.... :angry: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Just phoned the locale parts store.....they said it came directly from Beck Arnley, that's why it took a month. The gear doesn't look like anything online with a PM of (025-0266) or in Beck Arnleys catalog. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Doug, you're looking for an 8 hole one??? I've got tons of them and won't take no month to send you one. I'll get one out of the shed instead of cutting the lawn to find one. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Doug, you're looking for an 8 hole one??? I've got tons of them and won't take no month to send you one. I'll get one out of the shed instead of cutting the lawn to find one. I've got quite a few actually....4 and 8....thanks for the offer though. :) Paid an extra 70 bucks to get the 8 hole (kit) from BA....just so I could see the notch on the head through the gear. It's definitely not a BC.....should of stuck with the 3 hole from Clevite, saved 70 bucks. Thought of using an old cam gear I have (pic)....but I figured I should keep it new....wear and all. Edit Actually it was 93 bucks over and above the Clevite kit for the BA kit Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 the one on the right dont loom right for the whole locations. cant see the timming marks. Sorry you had such bad luck Beck Arnely has always been good in the stuff I got. But then again I always get my stuff ahead a year or earlier know what I need first . I have done the same getting bad parts. Most time I dont even return them. I just give them away to a Ratsun member that is really cheap and whatch him get so exciting thinking hes beating the system Quote Link to comment
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