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Wagon for Jester?????


Jester

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Hopefully someone can help here. I put the new thermostat in and now the car runs REALLY HOT!!! Like at the P in the word TEMP on the guage. Tonight I ran my daughter down to the church and on my way back I noticed it was at the end of the guage. I got home and it was not boiling out but it was puking out the overflow when I took the pressure off the cap.

 

 

When I first got home, the upper hose was cold.

Any thoughts. I can pull the thermostat back out, but why would this be an issue. Just think it's weird that there was no thermostat when I bought the car.

 

Thanks for any help.

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It took me three new thermostats to get one that works last time i had mine apart. And this one sticks(opens late) on occasion. Seen this same problem on more than datsuns recently too.

 

I have also had a similar problem in a 620 where the radiator was going bad, just wasnt up to the task anymore.

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Pulled the thermostat and it opens right at 185 twice in a row. and is fully open about 200. I did notice that the temp sensor prong was a little loose so I swapped out the sensor for a spare I had. Seems to be OK. Will see tomorrow morning.

I think I'll leave a few minutes early for work just in case I need to stop and yard the thermostat out. lol

Corey and Jason, thanks for the advise.

 

Jes

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does the thermostat have the small air bleed hole? If not, it could be an air bubble fighting you. you can drill an 1/8"..maybe smaller hole in the flat area. Won't pass enough water to bother anything, but it will make sure you don't trap air in the block.

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It had the small bleeder with the brass piece in it, I cut it out and drilled it out to 1/8" before I put it back in.

Drove it to Eugene today for work with not problems what so ever. Never got past half way on the guage.

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The kc gonna get a make over I think some new wheels hot pink accents a fiberglass no window canopy tweed interior with hot pink accents limo antenna some hot pink scollops. A nice pioneer tape deck a few pyramid 12s in a custom incloser with what else but pink neon! Under and inside the truck! Perfect!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LOL LOL LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ya.........LOL about 30 something years too late. Had to take the wifes car today. angry.gif

 

A couple questions, If I put a closed chamber L20 head on my L16, which head gasket do I use? Is there a difference between the 16 and 20 gasket?

I have the original L20 from my pickup build. It was a great runner when I pulled it. I only replaced it because I ended up with a newly rebuilt engine, and this one was down to babit on the bearings. If I throw some new bearings and rings in that, what besides the oil pan and pickup will I need to make it work? Motor mounts? I have a flywheel that will need surfaced.

I know this info is out there I just honestly don't have time to look through all the endless pages of garbage to find what I need.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Jes

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You won't need much. The mounts should be the same. I am only wondering if the insulators need to be the taller ones(from the 620) or not.. I wouldn't think so. Also, since the L20b block is 3/4" taller, if you're running a weber carb, you'll want to get the low-profile air cleaner(Edit: I just went back and saw that you already have the low profile air cleaner). Otherwise it will contact the hood. Other than that, if you have the flywheel and everything, you should be good to go. It's a pretty straight forward swap.

You will need to pull the pan and pickup off of a motor that was in a 510, as a truck pan will contact the crossmember.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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