Jester Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 I was coming home from work in Salem and passed MicroMachinery on Mission st. It was kinda funny. I seen his truck and I thought, "I know that truck!" I looked at the driver and he was checking out the goon. As his phone started ringing he sent me a text. Glad to see your driving the truck Bro. What were you doing in Salem? Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 YA, me and my mighty L16 against your KA. That would be exciting. Well think of it this way. I quite possibly could bust a axle and you could win! :D Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Ok. The car is running much better now and I want to turn my attention to the front suspension/brakes. I have been looking for the last hour on ratsun for the best offset rim to run on the back of my wagon. Keep in mind I would like to lower the wagon no more than 1 1/2" ---2". It will be a daily driver that WILL see a VG in it's future. I figured I would start with finding a 15" or 16" rim with the right offset to fill the rear wheel wells without causing issues, then, with this rim in mind, deciding which front struts would be best suited. Any thoughts or advise? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 depends on if you want to run a staggered set up or same front and rear... I have seen a 16x7 +10 - +22 front (depending on struts)and a 16x8 rear with a +15 - +30 rear you would have to roll the rears and you may rub a bit on the inner wheel well when going into a driveway at an angle when the rear articulates (mine rub a bit 16x7 +22) but my buddys wgon had Blitz wheels on his with a 16x8 +30 I think with 225/45-16 and was about as low as you wanna go and had no issues Clayton Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I would like to keep the wheel/tire sizes all the same so I can still rotate. I know I have the '91-'94 Nissan 240sx wheels in 15"X7". I just don't know the back spacing on them. I have about 3/8" before contacting the wheel lip and I rub a little on the inner well when backing into my driveway. That is the only time I have ever heard them rub. I need to pull one off and see what my back spacing is. Just not sure how much the issue will change with a 16" wheel and a 50 series tire in 205 or 215. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I run 15 x 6 zx snowflakes and they tuck well with no fender mods and zx front struts and coilovers. They fill the fenders perfectly but I don't think I could fit much more without changing a few things. Not sure of the offset but I'm sure someone around here does. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 I run 15 x 6 zx snowflakes and they tuck well with no fender mods and zx front struts and coilovers. They fill the fenders perfectly but I don't think I could fit much more without changing a few things. Not sure of the offset but I'm sure someone around here does. zx snow flakes and the swazis are +10 ive been told. I had to roll the fender lips with my swazis on my goon but it has tall 60 series tires. I have zx stuts also. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I pulled a rear wheel off to do some measuring. From the face of the drum, i have 6" of available space behind and just over 2" in front. If I could push it out about 3/8" I would be good. I found some details inside the webbing of the wheel. Does that 40 mean it's a plus 40?? You can see the amount of rubbing going on here. Apparently more than I thought. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Found some great info here. And to answer my own question the 40 on my wheels is the amount of offset. Sounds like I need a +30 offset. So, with this info I think I will go with the ZX struts to suck the fronts inside a tad. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 That's good to know +40. Rub in the rear their is no info around really for wagon wheel fitment Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 There really isn't. I have been looking with the search for "offset". A lot of info just nothing that spells it out. Clayton, thanks for the help. Sounds like you have about what I'm looking at. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Ok guys. I have an oppurtunity to buy a runing Z24 with dual Mikuni's, 5 spd, Z22, an L20 and another 5 spd for 500. How hard is it going to be stick the Z24 into my goon? Sorry. At work and don't have time to search. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 They don't fit well under the hood I can tell ya that not a whole lot to gain with those boat anchors Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Ya, the Z24 might not fit well, but that Z22 sure would. And for $500, if they are good motors/trans then it is worth it, but not for core motors. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 If in running shape, the dual mikuni setup is worth the $500 I was coming home from work in Salem and passed MicroMachinery on Mission st. It was kinda funny. I seen his truck and I thought, "I know that truck!" I looked at the driver and he was checking out the goon. As his phone started ringing he sent me a text. Glad to see your driving the truck Bro. What were you doing in Salem? I was out in Turner at the wrecking yard. I wanted to stop by Z Therapy, but ran out of time and had to head back home for work. Good to see you swoopin' the goon. :cool: Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Anyone interested in buying a Z24, just needs a carb? Lol I know the other two are cores. The 5 speeds are both good. I could sell one and keep the other, swap on a diff front half and put it in the goon. I REALLY want those Mikunis! Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 So what do you guys think a core Z22 and L20 are worth? Does $50 a piece for the engines sound unreasonable? How about a Z series 5 speed? No idea on this one. I know it only has 118K on it. NO metal on the magnetic plug or shiny stuff in the oil. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 So what do you guys think a core Z22 and L20 are worth? Does $50 a piece for the engines sound unreasonable? How about a Z series 5 speed? No idea on this one. I know it only has 118K on it. NO metal on the magnetic plug or shiny stuff in the oil. Don't know on the 'demand' in your locale....but here....a good Z22 core is worth more than the L. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Well if ya get the z trans you can bolt up a ka to it! I just don't see the point of messing with carbs and hybrid motors anymore when ka's out preform even built ones in most cases. Dollar for dollar the ka is a far superior motor and fuel injection. I like carbs but man their hardly worth messin with anymore. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 I guess I was wrong on the two core engines. The Z22 is a core BUT the other is actually the Z20 that was running in his truck when he picked up the Z24. It is only missing the head because it is now on the Z24. I hear you Luke. I just want something RIGHT NOW and this is too good to pass up. How often do find a deal like this WITH a pair of Mikuni PHH 44's? Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 I just don't see the point of messing with carbs and hybrid motors anymore when ka's out preform even built ones in most cases. Because it's fun! Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Hey man what ever floats your boat those side drafts are a lot of trouble and really are tempamental bastards especially in cold weather poppin spittin lousy mileage. But I do agree they are cool. 500 bucks will buy ya a ka motorset also. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Hey man what ever floats your boat those side drafts are a lot of trouble and really are tempamental bastards especially in cold weather poppin spittin lousy mileage. But I do agree they are cool. 500 bucks will buy ya a ka motorset also. 500 bucks for a used KA.....and then? Lets not forget about the cost of the swap. I'd rather have a built 'period correct' NA/carbed LZ and or under my hood than a KA. But...what ever floats your boat..... :D Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 The cost of the swap is a factor. But the cost just from swaping l motors can be high and a rebuilt L motor at that. It all kinda even outs in the end if your doing it right and not some hack job. You can do a ka swap fairly cheap really if you have the right tools for those that don't, it does get spendy Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 500 bucks for a used KA.....and then? Lets not forget about the cost of the swap. I'd rather have a built 'period correct' NA/carbed LZ and or under my hood than a KA. But...what ever floats your boat..... :D I have a built lz2.2 in Lisas car and it made awesome power (155whp and 151trq) but heres the thing it would cost about $3500 (Rebello Head is anywhere from $900-$1300) to build this engine again and thats not including the Mikunis thats another $750 with an intake granted this is on the high end of the spectrum but to be honest as fun as it is in the summer its kinda hard to drive the carbs dont like heat and because of the compression I have to run premium fuel, now take a bone stock twin cam KA strip all the smog shit off of it put a good header on it and make the exact same power and more torque on regular fuel and get way better drivability and reliability out of it and the gas milage will be over all better also. Just because its in my girlfriends car I would say if I had to do it over again I would probably put a KA or a N/A SR for her but for now the 2.2 is staying Clayton Quote Link to comment
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