Z-train Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hard left turn........what are you guys using for heater hoses? Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I dunno about the heater hose besides duck tape lol. Ztrain would know better than me about rear disc brakes Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Braided, gasoline grade stuff from the local hose store. Size escapes me. My hose store doesn't carry any metric sizes, I remember I went with the British size that was a little smaller. I've got new rust popping up on my wagon. One spot in the rocker and one spot in the back wheel well. Seems to come out of nowhere. The rust on the rocker seems to be starting within the rocker and working it's way outward. Any suggestions from y'all on how to stop this? Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I've got another curious problem. No batteries work in my car except for the one that came in it. I've tried 3, including a brand new one. All fully charged. Whenever I put a new battery in, turn the key, I get 2 clicks and no start. Not even a turn over of the starter motor, just nothing and all the warning lights light up. When I put the old battery back in (which is very very very old), damn thing starts right up. Something special about this battery? Or is something broken? The FSM says something about the voltage regulator, but I'm pretty much a novice with electricals. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I've got another curious problem. No batteries work in my car except for the one that came in it. I've tried 3, including a brand new one. All fully charged. Whenever I put a new battery in, turn the key, I get 2 clicks and no start. Not even a turn over of the starter motor, just nothing and all the warning lights light up. When I put the old battery back in (which is very very very old), damn thing starts right up. Something special about this battery? Or is something broken? The FSM says something about the voltage regulator, but I'm pretty much a novice with electricals. Have you checked to see how much voltage you are getting at the solenoid? Is the car automatic or manual? I know these questions seem irrelevant when paired together, but I had a similar problem where the car would not turn over, or was very very difficult to do so. I found that the original wiring on an automatic has the signal for the solenoid go through the neutral inhibitor switch. After the switch, then it would go to the solenoid. I had 9.88 volts at the solenoid...not near enough to do the job. I installed a "hot start relay that uses the solenoid wire as a trigger and pulls direct from the battery...12.8 volts is a WHOLE LOT BETTER than the 9.88 volts. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Have you checked to see how much voltage you are getting at the solenoid? Is the car automatic or manual?I know these questions seem irrelevant when paired together, but I had a similar problem where the car would not turn over, or was very very difficult to do so. I found that the original wiring on an automatic has the signal for the solenoid go through the neutral inhibitor switch. After the switch, then it would go to the solenoid. I had 9.88 volts at the solenoid...not near enough to do the job. I installed a "hot start relay that uses the solenoid wire as a trigger and pulls direct from the battery...12.8 volts is a WHOLE LOT BETTER than the 9.88 volts. I have not checked it, the car is an automatic. The car turns over fine with the old battery. Actually, I have to rev it once when I start it, or it dies, it idles fine after that. The guy I traded it to, who was a mechanic and seemed to be a competent guy, suggested that I replace the battery to solve this rev-after-start issue. He thought, that because the battery was so old and shitty, inadequate electricy was being delivered to the fuel pump upon first start (If not revving the engine, the car usually starts normally the 3rd time you crank it). I hope that makes sense. But still, the curious thing is that only this old battery will start the car. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I have not checked it, the car is an automatic. The car turns over fine with the old battery. Actually, I have to rev it once when I start it, or it dies, it idles fine after that. The guy I traded it to, who was a mechanic and seemed to be a competent guy, suggested that I replace the battery to solve this rev-after-start issue. He thought, that because the battery was so old and shitty, inadequate electricy was being delivered to the fuel pump upon first start (If not revving the engine, the car usually starts normally the 3rd time you crank it). I hope that makes sense. But still, the curious thing is that only this old battery will start the car. The rev after sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. Have you changed the fuel filter? Perhaps the fuel pump is having a hard time delivering fuel past an old filter. I am eager to find out how many volts the solenoid is receiving. I have a feeling you are receiving less than what you should be. Why the old battery? I am guessing on the Cold Cranking Amps might be better with the old battery, and you are drawing a high number of amps at the solenoid, but not enough volts...if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Anyone have a good trick for removing a stuck rear strut off a 280zx? J30 strut is also the same strut as 810 if there's no zs around Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 The rev after sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. Have you changed the fuel filter? Perhaps the fuel pump is having a hard time delivering fuel past an old filter.I am eager to find out how many volts the solenoid is receiving. I have a feeling you are receiving less than what you should be. Why the old battery? I am guessing on the Cold Cranking Amps might be better with the old battery, and you are drawing a high number of amps at the solenoid, but not enough volts...if that makes sense. Thanks. I'll look into that. That old battery has like 450 cca, the other 3 were much higher. Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 I've got new rust popping up on my wagon. One spot in the rocker and one spot in the back wheel well. Seems to come out of nowhere. The rust on the rocker seems to be starting within the rocker and working it's way outward. Any suggestions from y'all on how to stop this? I had a cousin that said sending electricity all over the body and frame of the car stops rust. You can try POR 15 what people stray in engine bays or Inside of cars to stop rust. Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Anyone have a good trick for removing a stuck rear strut off a 280zx? J30 strut is also the same strut as 810 if there's no zs around Wish I knew you could try giving it a good kick? Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Anyone have a good trick for removing a stuck rear strut off a 280zx? J30 strut is also the same strut as 810 if there's no zs around Z strut is shorter. Quote Link to comment
Micuss Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 hey does anybody know where I can find two sets of these rubbers for two 2 door coupesIMG_7020 by micuss0source, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 So I'm replacing my rear wheel bearings. I have 2 bearings and 2 seals. I actually called a shop to see how much they'd want to do it, since I've been feeling like shit lately. Anyway, they want too much. The guy was looking up the 810 on his labor calculator thing, and told me I need to get more seals? I wasn't sure if that was right or not, doubting that the 810 pops up on his computer system. Anyway, my FSM doesn't say anything about greasing my bearings? Are they already lubricated or something? Also, looking for recommendations on a bearing puller that will work well with these bearings. Anything else I should be replacing while my axle is apart? Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Ya I want z struts just saying the j30 is same as stock. I tried kicking it hammering too but never came off ill try again with some wd40 Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 I would think electricity on the frame would cause a galzanic reaction if 2 different types of metal are joined together Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 I wouldn't know for sure that what I was told by a few body shop people. Quote Link to comment
Rotary510 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 FOR SALE : http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/3561697597.html Quote Link to comment
Burabuda Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 when is a 910 an 810 :confused: Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 when is a 910 an 810 :confused: A 910 is a Maxima. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Isnt the 1st gen maxima an 810? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Isnt the 1st gen maxima an 810? No, it's a 910. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Well I dont agree lol The badge, nissan parts listing, title and owners manual saying 810 are what I go by. What nissan called it is what it is. I'm aware the body code was 910 though. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted February 8, 2013 Report Share Posted February 8, 2013 I'm aware the body code was 910 though. That's all that changed,so-you're right.It's a 910. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 8, 2013 Report Share Posted February 8, 2013 Nope, 810 just line Nissan called it. Its pretty silly to me to see nissan call a car an 810, badge it an 810, sell it as an 810, sell parts for it as an 810, Print the owners manual calling it an 810, the gov titles it as an 810 but still argue its really a 910 because of a body code. Riiiiiiiiiight lol. Quote Link to comment
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