Fisch's L18- enigma, AKA Project possum-Custom Paint! Pg2

[fisch]

I've been SHELLACKED! So I pull the valve cover today and this is what I see. What looks oily and wet is actually dry almost like shellac. Smooth and dry, almost as if painted black or powder coated.

 

There isn't a lot of lumps of gunk all over the place, only where the oil sat in the sockets of the head and cam tower bolts. Other than that everything is smooth.

 

I also saw two markings on the end of the cam, a letter B and what looks like a backward 7. Does that mean anything?

 

What is the best way to get the shellac off of there? Would having it hot tanked clean it up? Is it unusual to see this sort of issue under a valve cover? (this is the first I've pulled, what can I say, I am more visual than mechanical! But I'm learning!)

 

Also I bent a crease out of the dip stick tube and could finally check what oil level is in the engine. There's none!! Dry as a bone. I bet I am shellacked in the oil pan too!

 

I am guessing I need to remove the head and break this puppy down to see the full story now, yes? Or is this kind of greeting when you pull a valve cover not a big deal? Everything does turn freely. Nothing seems stuck.

 

 

 

[72240z]

That is what I'd expect to find under the valve cover and wouldn't be too concerned. Gasoline and a toothbrush takes that staining right off. I would do a leak down test before removing the head.

I wouldn't even remove the head on a stock motor if the leak down came back alright but the seller is claiming its built so you prob should just to make sure you know what you got.

 

If it checks out and you decide to run it as is I would polish up the cam journals and clean out the gunk. If you pop the head I would just get it hot tanked and replace the valve seals (at least anyway).

 

Idk about the cam marking, break out the mic and measure the lobes then you'll know what you got.

Thats what I would do.

Edited June 5, 2009 by 72240z

[mike]

...Seeing that on the inside Id be yanking the head to check the cylinder walls and stuff. Also since the motor has been sitting for so long youll probably want to change the valve seals regardless. They might be "good" now but they are one of the things on these motors that does tend to go bad from sitting.

 

If you want my advice (take it or leave it no biggie) Find a decent gasket kit for every last thing on the motor, and tear it apart. Check all bearing clearances, check to see if the cylinder walls are scored or worn, clean the piss out of everything and if everything checks out slap it back together with new gaskets and valve seals. If you go this route it would be a good time to pick up a KA24 high volume oil pump for the little beastie.

 

Other than a torque wrench and a valve spring compressor you should be able to do it all with just a basic socket/wrench set and the allen head socket for the head bolts.

 

You would also be able to find out if youve got a closed chamber head or oversize/flat top pistons or whatever. To me it would be worth it just for peace of mind... Youd have bragging rights for rebuilding your own engine too;)

 

It would also be a chance to have the rocker cover and timing cover coated (like in the hainz video) That stuff looked as good as polished and lasts longer... Well worth the price.

 

All things considered you didnt get hosed on the deal, The header and intake are worth what you paid for it all.

[Phlebmaster]

Nice score!!

 

I learned the way of the L motor...so can you!! :lol: I will be glad to help you out in anyway I can. :)

[fisch]

All things considered you didnt get hosed on the deal, The header and intake are worth what you paid for it all.

 

Sound advise Mike, thanks!

 

And I don't think I got hosed either! I'm in new England after all! I kid you not in the three years I have looked every day on c-list in a tri state area, this is the first l18 I have seen for sale. There's been only one other l20 for sale in that same amount of time, and it was a real mystery. Heh these things are like paperweights on the left coast (And shipping would kill me!). I swear it is like I live in a different country!

 

Even if I just got the A87 head for $150 I'd be psyched! Add the trans, block, supposed after market cam, manifold and headers, not to mention little things like alt and starter... and I feel it was a well spent $150!

 

I appreciate all the response on what is prolly a pretty normal item for most of you westcoasters! I f'n love Ratsun!

[bonvo]

shit i wish i could find a deal like that lol but no such luck for me

[fisch]

So you guys know me by now! I still haven't messed with this puppy mechanically, but I had to get the paint out!

 

Went with an asian dragon samurai geisha thang. Painted the valve cover with Ronin sign painter paint, which is what a lot of pinstripers use. All hand painted with a brush. I gave the scales a 3d look by hitting them with a dremmel sanding disk. It still needs to be clear coated.

 

What-cha guys think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted to wait till I had it ALL done to share, but it has been at this state for a month, and I've been wanting to show it to y'all.

 

I have the offy manifold buffed out and the cyclone headers are sandblasted and am still deciding whether to have them jet coated, or hit them with the VHT white header paint. I want white though, like a gasser!

 

So here is the thing. Y'all may recall I bought this to put in Oil Drop 521... But now, with all the ol skool goodies, I am thinking of it for the '59! I put the valve cover over the c-engine in the 59's bay to dream a little. Mmmmm that's tasty!

Edited October 2, 2009 by fisch

[72240z]

Looks pretty fing sweet to me man.

[polski ogorki]

i love you fisch!

[motavated]

That is bad ass! Kind of looks like you leafed it. I like it!

[hessianben]

Niice find Fischy!

 

IMHO, just pull it apart and rebuild it with new gaskets/seals.

You will have so much more fun cleaning and painting everything!

And, you will know for sure EXACTLY what is goin on inside!

It'll cost you under $100 for a full gasket set- maybe a couple more bucks for the random gaskets not included... (dizzy, ect...)

Make that f*cker shine!

[freaky510]

you win the coolest rocker(valve) cover award

:lol::lol:

[datrod]

i love you fisch!

 

Yea what he said.:lol:

Dude I need you to design my next tat. :eek:

[hessianben]

So you guys know me by now! I still haven't messed with this puppy mechanically, but I had to get the paint out!

 

 

 

 

 

Bad

 

 

 

Freakin

 

 

 

Ass !!!:D:D:D

 

That is about the coolest looking valve cover paint job I've ever seen!

...and I KNOW you're not done yet....

we'll just be here, all waiting and stuff....

[JustinB]

That is f***ing B-E-A-utiful! I love it. I really would have finished up the insides first, but that's how I am. We all have our ways of getting to the finish line anyway. Besides, even if i got it all put together and running like a dream, I'd probably leave it looking like hell. No way I could top that paint job. Did I mention I love it? :D

[nukeday]

That engine doesn't need to run, looking like that! It's amazing!

[Madness]

....... jesus.

[paradoxx]

you really have talent fisch! its looks as if you had machined the aluminum

[jovial_cynic]

Seconding all the posts saying to replace all the seals/gaskets before you do anything else. Gaskets need to stay wet to retain their sealing properties; once they dry out from sitting, they get brittle -- this engine is going to leak like a sieve for sure.

 

You should absolutely crack the engine open and learn on it. That what I did with a Z22 engine I had, and I ended up turning it into an LZ-hybrid that's in my daily driver now.

[sean1978]

Looks great, but will it hold up to heat?

 

I'd put it in my living room. Great job!

[AtomChurch]

I have that same intake manifold! Its a dual port. It helps increase the air velocity. Its like magic. I have it on a L20 but I was told it was designed for a L18. I havent ever seen another one.

Edited October 3, 2009 by AtomChurch