metalmonkey47

Dunno what emissions requires but the Magnaflow sound great. Thrush turbo mufflers are quiet but maintain a decent tone. Only about $20 for a thrush.

Look on CL. There's a set of 15x10 hammers still new in box for $200. I'll try and find the link EDIT: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/3514707104.html

Chad's 400+hp SR20 620 has a very slight stretch all the way around, and has de-beaded one tire. ONCE. From my knowledge, it has never happened to him other then that, and that's racing at AMP (not drifting) Right rear I'd say that if he can race/drift the shit out of his truck for 3 years, and only loose a tire once on the track severely abusing it at 70+ MPH, it's probably not gonna be a big deal on yours. Fact is, it can be dangerous but the likely hood you will ever have an issue is so low that it's just stupid. I know hundreds of people who daily drive on stretched tires, most just to clear flares/fenders and that's the only one I've seen de-bead.

So many bullshit opinions surfacing. This is a no-bueno stretch. Only reason i did it was because I already had the tires, and didn't feel like buying more at the time. Just too tall, and too much stretch to me. 205's on a 10 is really pushing the limit. I don't mind the 205/50's on the front, since it's not as obvious. I will be ordering 220/50's for my rear in a few weeks. _DSC0118 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0074 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr I think 90% of the time, good fitting tires will look/perform better, but it all depends on what you're going for. What size rims do you want to stretch tires on?

I run 205's on a 15x10. Slide around corners and overall beat the shit out of them. Never had an issue. YOLO I am ordering more 'correct' size tires soon though. I'm okay with my low 205/50's in the front, but the 205/60's out back looks stupid.

I've used seafoam on an L20B. Worked great for finding leaks.

You're already on the right track looking to buy used. IMO, stay away from HF welders. Not that they're bad, but you can get so much more for the money buying used. I used a really nice Miller 350P a few years back when my brother used to work for a metal fab shop. Sonovabitch would weld brake rotors together like it was gluing paper. Way out of anyone's budget here though. I'd really consider a Miller if I was in the market though. Very nice stuff.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/3613884512.html WUTTTTTTT

Oh mother fucker, that Pantera is hot shit. Easily one of my favorite cars of all time.

Redline or WeberCarbsDirect are the only one's I'd choose to deal with if I had to, based on the testimony of others. I picked up all my webers used though.

Saw an unusually clean gray S30 today. Not sure on much other then the color, but it looked great.

Those are pretty cool, too bad their price tag is nuts. About average for good fender mirrors I guess.

Pretty sure what you're looking at is a 32/36 DGV. Got pics?

Pretty sure the bed mounted tank ranges up to '76 on the short bed, standard cab. I'm gonna go look at some trucks maybe this weekend, so i'll let you know what i find.

Wayno, I'm pretty sure that car was a Mexico model originally, which is maybe why you see a difference? I have a friend that spoke to the seller to get a little more information and that's what he told him.

Welcome chuck! I've been looking forward to seeing who ended up with this. It's a beautiful example of what a well treated car should look like. I've been hoping to see the next owner on here, and I look forward to seeing you at some meets.

Try greasing the king pins and all other joints like Zeusimo said

Welcome! Where do you live at? That's a good looking truck. be sure to check ebay for door locks.

WOW a 710 AND 510 for that price? Man I really envy you west coast guys right about now.

That was the point....

If you disconnect and plug the pickup tube on the tank, and plug one end of the fuel line, you can put some soapy water in a spray bottle, soak the fuel lines, and blow compressed air back through and have someone watch for bubbles. You can do it with the fuel line connected, but that's just my preferred method. Basically the same as datsunaholics method, but the addition of soapy water makes it easier to see small leaks.

www.willtheyfit.com will let you calculate and see approximately what they'll look like.

1: Everything, if you disable/remove all the emissions, you only need vacuum lines to the dizzy for the vac advance 2: Route the vent to the air cleaner. They come with a 5/8th's elbow that goes on the air cleaner for the weber for that purpose. 3: You still have to pass emissions in TN? If you disable the emissions and remove all the vac lines to EGR etc, you won't pass. 4: As long as you buy the carb for a Z24, you'll be fine. If you buy one from an unknown motor used, then you'll probably need to jet it.