metalmonkey47
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Everything posted by metalmonkey47
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OMG do want!!
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Datsun 620 carrier bearing bracket/clamp
metalmonkey47 replied to sr20ve620's topic in Datsun Parts Wanted
I'll look in the garage. i'm pretty sure I have the lower section in my scrap bucket. -
Feeling pretty confident that my oil pressure issues are sender related. Put the new one on, and changed the oil while I was at it. Not a single issue since then.
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FS: Grip Royal Wood Steering Wheel & Chin Spoiler
metalmonkey47 replied to s2kguy17's topic in Datsun Parts For Sale
Awesome price on the wheel! I've wanted one for a little while, but cash is tight. -
Sooooo new oil pump in... oil light comes on at idle occasionally. Need to find some adapters to get my damn oil gauge set up. Hoping the sender just took a shit.
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get th epressure adjuster from wolf creek, well worth 40$
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I mean it killed the sender. On my talon the light was supposed to come on under 12psi. It would flicker and the factory gauge would bounce around. Putin aftermarket gauge on it, oil pressure NEVER dropped below 23psi.
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Loose wire would make the light turn OFF, not on. Stock light switches are around 5 PSI. Hopefully just the sender, and not overly worn bearings. A gauge would tell you.
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need to hook up an oil pressure gauge..whats the thread pitch on the L20b sender? 1/4 npt?
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yep bpt.
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BPT. youll need a tap in that size.. chester has one... lol
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yes I do I could send it out to you ollz
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do i need to drain my oil to pull my oil pump?
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lols. oil pump sits higher on the motor than the oil pan, thus oil in pan will not fall out. Oil in pump will still go everywhere.
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I was more concerned with oil sitting in the timing cover, got er done now!
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Oil doesnt sit there... it drains to the pan...
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truck is starting to show its age. center link has play, oil pump is shot, brakes are acting funky, etc... worst part is that i have no money to fix most of it.
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Oil lights coming on in the truck :( Ordered KA oil pump. Hope I don't need bearings.
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Hook up a mech. Gauge straight to it and check sending unit/wire as well (as you already know)
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I'm using 1K mile old VR1 20w50 with a Napa Gold filter. I'm hoping I don't have to drop the pan =/ The oil pump is probably the culprit I'd imagine... and hope.
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KA time
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Clearances. My big optima sits right behind the headlight.
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I just got a set today. My only issue at this point is the battery. Dunno, I'm gonna open up the housings and clean them up before fitting them.
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So I'm actually pretty confused now. I miss-read dime quarterly. The above values were for the DCH carb, not the Weber. The following are for the Weber. Yesterday I switched my two air jets around, 160pri, 170sec, and it seems to run better at partial throttle before the secondary opens. According to the value's above, my primary jetting would be about right, and my secondary jetting would be wayyy too rich with wayyy too high of an air mixture.. I find it strange that the secondary jets would need to be smaller on the larger Weber, where as the suggested jetting for the Hitachi would be larger then the primary. Can someone explain why the jetting on the secondary would be smaller then the jetting on the primary? I need to order stuff for my secondary I guess.
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Maguire's Ultimate Compound: TESTED (photos)
metalmonkey47 replied to brownevan's topic in Body/Interior
Nice! I used the same stuff on my 620. I'll see about finding some pics. -
Len, any help is good. The carbs are not too different and the concept is the same. I've got the tuning guide and I need to read through it.. Jet sizes: Main: Primary = 140 Secondary = 140 Air Jets: Primary = 170 Seondary = 160 Emulsion tube had no markings on it. Power valve is good. Accelerator pump is good. Dime Quarterly tuning chart lists CORRECT jets as.... Main: Primary: 115-120 Secondary: 170 Air Correction Jet: Primary: 65 Secondary: 65-70 Now, Datsun 1200 lists the air jets as a 170-160, but Dime Quarterly specifies differently. Can someone elaborate? What am I reading wrong?
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Welcome Andrew. I doubt anybody on this forum could even tell you what a WP312 bluebird even looks like, let alone ever even touched one. As far as the window rubbers, I'm gonna guess no one makes a replacement unless it's on some corner of Ebay I can't seem to find. I'll make some calls to some companies at work and see if anyone can locate a set. I've got a few friends at Nissan that have been able to find me some tricky stuff. Either way, we would love to see some pictures of the beast! Good luck! EDIT: Didn't take long to find pictures. Very nice! http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14748 Looks like there is one other on on Ratsun, so you may try PM'ing him to see if he's ever had to track them down. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39801-1963-wp312-update-may/
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Thanks Lacaeon! Just got a copy of the Weber tuning guide and I'm reading through it. BRB later with more thoughts...
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I REALLY need to get into my float bowl. I THINK the air bleed jets were both 60's, and the main jets I was looking at were the ones in the bottom of the float bowl. Mike, those are stock numbers? If so my truck is running lean at WOT, and rich at partial throttle? I have ZERO vacuum leaks checked with brake parts cleaner. I've noticed that no matter what the temp is, if I coast for a few seconds and get back on the throttle my truck will stumble pretty bad before I have any power. I have lots of mis-fires for a second or two and everythings fine. I dunno, it's just all a little strange. I also have some funky steering issues... but that's for another day. I can figure that out I'm sure. I'm gonna go get all the jet numbers tomorrow and post them. I really think I might be having an issue there, even if it's not what's causing this. GGzilla, can you elaborate on the ignition problem? I've been over every inch of my ignition and haven't found any bad spots. My cap/rotor were freshly cleaned, plugs are new, wires are new, matchbox dizzy is good with a good vac advance and proper timing, etc. Only thing I haven't done is get the primary/secondary resistance for my IGN coil and tested it.
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I don't really use Photobucket anymore. I pay for a Flickr pro account (just a couple bucks) and love it. Quality is way above photobucket, but that's what ya get for using free stuff. I also do a lot of photography though, so that's a big reason as to why I use it.
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Valvoline has a higher ZDDP count then most other oils. I think the VR-1 is the highest for the price. I use 20W50 here when it's 30 degrees outside with no issue. I love my valvoline.
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Right on man. Good start. You'll find one here, just be patient. Welcome to Ratsun!
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Does re-indexing torsion bars stiffen the front suspension? Or just lower it more?
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if you keep the same measurements when lowing, the suspension should be the same as it was before.
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Lookin good man!
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I do also remember both my primary and secondary main jets were identical, which doesn't seem right to me. Wouldn't the secondary be larger?
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Sorry about the delay guys, the weather's dropped to about 30-40 daily now, so I wanted to drive it and see how it ran before coming back here. I have a non-emissions L16-L18 manifold. (Not sure which) and it's also not water cooled. I have a stock U67 manifold somewhere, but don't plan on putting it on. I also don't have a heat riser since I have a header/weber. I've noticed that when I rev it out (about 6K) and shit into the next gear, it stumbles pretty bad before taking off again in the next gear. I feel like i'm missing power in my top end too. My carb adapter is a high rise steel adapter. I need to pull it off and make new gaskets with some cork/rubber material. Another thing I've noticed is that when it's cold, my truck idles LOW (even after bumping the high idle up) until I've had it running for a minuet to warm up. I haven't had a chance to check the choke linkages, so I need to get a rush on that.
