atkinson40

Thanks SM, I swapped out the booster for a rebuild not that many miles ago, but a few years ago I was not smart enough to do what you suggested back then so it may be off. I can measure it and compare to when I get it back, but I think I'm going to need to measure the throw of the master and see if I can correlate it to a throw/position on the rod coming out of the booster.

Thanks DM, Before I read your post, I was able to bend the hose over in half to pinch it off. Sure enough, hitting the brake stops changing the idle when the hose is pinched off. I see 4 bolts at the base and 4 bolts at the master that need removing. Maybe I'll just leave the master on until I get it out. I'm going to replace it anyway. Just need to investigate how the pedal hooks up to the booster and how to disconnect.

Thanks SM, I found a place in SD for $225. The shipping would probably make up part of the Sacramento difference. The guy here told me two things: 1. If I pinch off the line going to the intake and it stops affecting the idle when I step on the brake, it is probably the booster. 2. The check valve should be one way going to the intake.

Failed the last two tests. Quick online search shows a dearth of replacements for this. Has another car replacement part been found? What are my options here? I replaced this with a rebuilt not that many miles ago. Can I rebuild it myself? Or is there a source I'm not finding? I think I may have seen some, but $400 for a rebuild? Seems an easier solution would be to replace the booster/master with something from a newer vehicle that is easily sourced at a much lower price?

I noticed when I stepped on the brake, the idle goes down. I think this means the booster is somehow letting air into the intake manifold where it hooks up?

My bad DM. I do not know my right from left.

I ordered and replaced the HEI module. Less than $10 to my door from ebay. I think I hosed it when I hosed off the engine. Works fine now.

Ordered. I can be bleeding the brakes while I'm waiting for it to come. I'll just put the drum on to hold the shoes in place as I do it.

The picture I posted is the left front side on my vehicle. Just like in the diagram. Going forward, the wheel would be rotating counter clockwise. I installed the front shoes on both sides of the vehicle with both small pads toward the front of the vehicle.

Yes it has a power booster. I found the leak on the passenger rear slave. I bought and replaced it. I also found the part #22 in the attached to be worn and not staying on. Is there any reason why this link part will not work. I can't find a kit for a 72 620. I only need #22. https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-H4020-2/dp/B000Q0CW9Q/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TT9NZ8IPNXEE&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aAom6gBdvJysteMZ6NlO4xzrPD_c4pzb8LDA6S4Fx-tAfs3ln0skXpvJqowYFx4mFvq5MIGh6nQJBHQorLB9Gz_VH3cSiILA9vqj_kl9BMXg3sQY39vyJWKJFictag4Y_ls7nWDF3GRfP6DocBo4L1n1RPAj9aJLjwRzNqTOM3sH8goTrDgU9zRJEnC2qbTqH7SKbX8teuwoqxedmlgmW2U4YnAH3lcjfeMa51la2ST3I51t_nkFbCNtEn-oL6JC6rJ3fgXFhh6682podFaJdVJIna8JpssbZ5sfqIfPe0A.alZnC8EVM43irm8kFVKTp_cO3GF9FEFHD4dNInMriAE&dib_tag=se&keywords=1972+datsun+620+brake+hold+down+clip&qid=1723328322&s=automotive&sprefix=1972+datsun+620+brake+hold+down+clip%2Cautomotive%2C136&sr=1-5

OK, So I think I have them correct.

I'm trying to chase down why I loose fluid. I see no leaks outside the drums on the lines, so am checking the cylinders. Good thing is, I see no wetness on the right side. But, did I put the shoes on correct the last time I worked on them?

72 Datsun 620 About a gabillion years ago I did the electronic conversion in the attachment Trucks been running fine. i took it for a spin and am chasing the hose clamp leaks. When I got back from the spin I noticed the @#$%^ hose is still leaking that goes to the intake manifold below the carb. I changed the clamps to T-bolt clamps and started it up and it ran about 5 seconds and died. Then would not start again. i had a helper crank it and found no spark at the dizzy or plugs. I metered all the voltages and connections in the attached. All still good. I'm thinking I lost the coil or hie unit. Any way to check these or is it just a swap out and see if it fixes it?

Part now supposedly now coming Monday. (ebay) I plugged the channel with silicon and a top patch of JB Weld for the time being. No sign of water in the oil. I'll monitor it after every use. Runs fine. Cooling system now acts like it should. Burped itself clean of air and drew enough from the reservoir (a must have) to top itself off. Not loosing water anymore. Temp needle goes up to about a needle width from center when moving. Sitting idling gets up to around center. I'm going to test it awhile before I tear it apart again. I want to make sure I'm only tearing it down for the cover plate.

Thanks Mike You sealed my decision on what to do. Ebay. Ordered. Live and learn. Never too old for that.