yenpit

I have a really clean dash (& engine compartment) harness in my 1974 620 parts truck. I do NOT know if the same as the later 1976............. PM if interested! TJ Denver CO

We use the NAPA "Wilson" brand 280ZX reduction starter on ALL of our ultra high compression L28 vintage race Z's. We tried other brands, had failures & one other literally fell apart! We have not had any issues since using Wilson.............

Here in Colorado, we have Denver Metal Finishing. In Michigan, we had Allegan Metal Finishing. Google locally "metal finishing or plating", but I have heard that CA does not offer this kind of plating cuz of EPA.............?? I have seen home brew yellow zinc & prefer the professional outcome 🙂 Biggest problem is that they literally toss ALL of the hardware & parts into the plating tanks, so YOU need to know where everything goes once plated. If you have spare hardware from other Datsun projects or parts cars, do it ALL! We have boxes done & always have extra hardware to use later! If you are gonna do it, you must use a LESS aggressive media like glassbead......NOT an aggressive media like aluminum oxide etc! Wow earlyvws, your project is killer!

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Vintagedashes.com recently released a repop 70-73 dash pad. Not cheap, but bolt in easy! I have used the plastic dash caps before, looked decent for the money spent!

That clip mentioned by carterb & shown by you (fuzzy pic) is a little "loose" when in place, so no worries there! If your old original wiper motor doesn't suit your needs, I have installed Honda wiper motors (some are literally a bolt in), which are far more technologically advanced, being 25+ years newer. If you use the same motor I did (ugh, can't remember the exact year!), I have the wiring figured out. Honda changed wire color codes often, between years & models, so that should be researched ahead of time for ease of installation!

carterb offered up great info! FYI the captive nut should be on your car, under the headliner, but FYI that captive nut should be in the same place on the upper roof rail, whether 2dr or 4dr...........the B pillars were simply located differently. What I don't like about the factory captive nut, is how HIGH UP it mounts the buckle where the belt passes through. It kinda makes the belt ride up your neck! We ditched that idea & welded captive nuts about 4 inches down the B pillar, which lowered the buckle mounting point, which in turn lowered the belt, which positioned the belt in a much more comfortable position. Just like locating the upper captive nut WITHOUT cutting the headliner yet (as carterb suggested), you can run your finger down the CENTER of the B pillar until you feel a hole about 4 inches down. We peeled the B pillar vinyl away (very carefully if in good condition!) & the thin foam padding, enlarged the hole to suit a FLANGED NUT & welded it in place. We inserted the flanged nut in backwards, which stopped the nut from falling into the B pillar & dropping down & welded it. If you are concerned about the strength of that area of the B pillar, you can weld the nut to a small piece of metal plate, then weld the metal plate to the B pillar. Either way, replace the foam padding & vinyl and away you go! We also used a similar aftermarket 3 pt retractable belt set, like carterb posted. I KNOW you can find them in the UK at Moss Motors, as I was in the British parts industry here in the States for years & they offered a few different sets for the MG's & TR's...........sorry, can't remember part #'s etc, but the key is you will mount the retractor unit down on the inner rocker/sill panel, like the pic carterb posted, like our USA spec 72-73 510's, up to the belt buckle on the B pillar, then down to the second mounting point next to the seat, and the actual belt pulls UP, not horizontally like some! Of course, the inner belt buckle assembly mounts to the trans tunnel. Hope that helps! TJ

Wohooo!! 😎 BTW OEM Nissan brake pedal switches are cheap............just replace it! Buy OEM, not crap aftermarket!

Our issue here is that some of the switches etc in your car may be different than USA spec. That said, have you pulled the fusebox & soaked in simple white vinegar? If not, do it for a few days! Did you put stock "contact style" flasher units in? If so, you should upgrade to heavy duty ELECTRONIC flasher units on both direction indicator AND hazard! I use Novita brand part # EL12 HD electronic flashers on both...........every classic car I have...........even my 1965 Mustang! Ground wires, ground wires, ground wires!! Unscrew every ground wire, clean terminal & surface where mounted, use dielectric grease & re-install! Pull ALL light bulbs, clean sockets & terminals, use dielectric grease & re-install! Does your car have the JDM sequential tail lamps? We never got them, but I have heard of the sequential "box" going bad, causing electrical glitches. If you do have, maybe open up the box & look for issues, clean etc etc...............that sequential box was ahead of it's time back then (similar to 1960's Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar), but it is still relatively simple Japanese technology! Good luck! TJ

I pulled my OEM wheel off this weekend, fitted a 510 hub kit. The hub "seats" itself on the splines & allows the big nut to tighten up, however the hub tightens down, leaving a 1/2in gap between the hub & the 2pc plastic steering column cover. I have already messaged Jake Anderson from the Facebook pages, as he is 3D printing the 2pc cover. He said there is a pretty good chance that he can make the 2pc plastic cover LONGER, to close up this gap, would simply very likely need trimming to fit the VARIOUS depths of the various hub kit manufacturers. I might just try gluing a strip of black foam or rubber to either the plastic cover or the hub, to fill up this gap.............

As far as I know, only the smaller Datsun 1200 series has a smaller spline, likely thru the later 210 series! I have not pulled my 521 steering wheel off yet, but sounds like it is the same as the 510 & Z car...........

240Z pivot pin is 2-1/4 tall, 280Z is 1-5/8 tall. My GUESS is they changed it when they went from carburetors to fuel injection.............?? Let me know if you need one or the other, as we have Z parts! TJ Denver CO

First thought was "Look it up!", but I see Pertronix doesn't list much Datsun! I have a part #1741, so maybe research a little more to make sure that's it! Apparently it is Datsun 4cyl with SINGLE points (not dual!), so hope that's the correct part # for YOU!

There are a couple guys on here & on the 521 Facebook page repop'ing some 521 parts. A guy named Jake (??) is 3d printing tail lamp housing (looks like you are handled) & glovebox cubby (you might have figured that out already?). There is also a guy stamping out the "skin" for the rocker panel..............sorry don't know his name, maybe somebody else will chime in! Good lookin' truck!

4everdatsun unfortunately no. Do you need the outer rubber strip that wipes the door glass? If so, it is VERY LIKELY the same rubber strip cross section as a 70's Z car. The Z car rubber strip is long, so buy those & trim to fit your car.........?? If you are looking for a big thick C channel rubber seal for maybe the side 1/4 window (??), you will likely have to make it from another Datsun seal that is still available.

Seen it advertised! I've got a 1980 720 2WD parts truck (on CL Denver now) if you need anything! PS my roommate works with Alpaca's with an Alpaca rescue lady named Pamela Popp up in Conifer.........your sig says alpacadan.........? TJ Arvada

Sounds like he went to work for a JDM guy that has a shop & does youtube videos........?? They must have big plans............

If anybody is interested, one issue when doing a CA SR or KA swap in a 510 is that some installations push these engines far back enough to hinder the ability to hook up the stock heater hoses! We just did a CA18DET swap with this problem, so I pulled off the stock heater valve (most don't work anyway) & the two brass heater pipes that poke thru the firewall, bought a couple of Dayco #80407 heater hoses with a 90deg pre-formed bend at one end, ran them from the heater core over to the passenger side, looped thru the firewall (like the dealer installed AC hoses!) & then back to the engine. I installed the hoses on the engine BEFORE installing the engine, cuz the inlet & outlet are difficult to get to with the engine stuffed in the 510! I also installed a simple universal heater valve in the correct hose under the dash, made a new LONGER heater cable from a lawnmower solid core throttle cable & was able to use the stock ON-OFF heater slide control! Should work great for our random weather changes here in the Spring & Fall!