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henry

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About henry

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SoCal
  • Cars
    1971 510 SW; 1990 Geo Prizm; '55 Chevy pickup;''87 Mazda 323
  • Interests
    woodworking, my vehicles, the ocean

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  1. henry

    valve clearance

    Hey everyone - Thanks you for all the help on the valve adjustment. It was satisfying to not hear any ticking when the job was done & the car drives better too. The exhaust on # 4 was really off. Also I was not able to separate the lock nut from the adjusting nut on the # 1 cylinder intake valve. I ended up just tighten the lock nut & the lash went to speck. So I left it alone for now. Mike, the order of the adjustment makes a lot more sense now. Well onto the next project. Door locks & weather stripping... Anyone know of reasonable prices for those things?
  2. henry

    valve clearance

    Thanks Mike; I will try it your way instead ( Yes, a lot less turning of the crank ). I do know how to set the #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke. Although I don't have the luxury of running the engine for 20 min. ( neighbors ). I'll have to do a cold adjustment. I'm having a hard time separating the adjusting nut from the lock nut on the # 1 cylinder intake valve. They seem really stuck together. Not a lot of room to maneuver two wrenches. Henry
  3. henry

    valve clearance

    '71, 510 - 1.6L - SW Hello everyone, I want to adjust the valves. I know that there are different ways to do it. I'm wondering if this way would work out: Starting from the front of the engine; no.1 cylinder - exhaust valve - turn crank pulley & put the lifter straight up. Adjust valve. intake valve -turn crank pulley & put the lifter straight up. Adjust valve Do the same for cylinders 2 - 3 - & 4. ( ..always with the lifters straight up ) Becau
  4. OK, I guess I have an early model 328. Well the engine is running well now. I'm glad for that. Thanks for all the good advice everyone has given me. Until the next project... Henry
  5. Interesting. On my set up there is no hollow bolt either. Just out of curiosity, would it be possible to add a power valve to that carburetor in the future Henry
  6. Keep in mind that all this is in the past. The carb. has been rebuild & installed.
  7. Mike, I hope this went through. Sorry its sideways. I don't think that I see a power valve. Thanks, Henry
  8. Hi Mike, Still trying to get to the bottom of this power valve business. Been looking at pictures taken during the rebuild, but don't recognize anything resembling a power valve in the fuel bowl. Would you have picture that you could post of the power valve inside the fuel bowl? Thanks again, Henry
  9. Hi Mike, Wanted to let you know that everything is running good. I flipped that bottom gasket so that the air passage was sealed, ( ...got to take those vacuum leaks seriously ). Readjusted the carburetor where it idles & shuts off normally. It also fixed that hesitation that I wrote about in the beginning of this thread. As far as the power valve goes I don't think that there is one in my carburetor. (Hitachi 2 Barrel 328); no mention of a hollow bolt or a power valve in the parts list of the repair sheet. I guess I lose out on that feature. OK, w
  10. Sorry, I think I made a mistake posting the first time. Here it goes again... I think i found the cause of the vacuum leak. I had installed the bottom gasket upside down. That cutout notch was extending past the intake carburetor base ; there was a clear air passage. My unit does not have a power valve. What is your opinion on reusing the same gasket. It sill looks pretty fresh. I could always cut a new one. Alright, thank you. Henry
  11. Hi Mike, " If spraying around the gasket caused a change then the gasket must be leaking. I know it's a pain but remove the carburetor and look at the imprint of the carburetor on the gasket. If it looks OK peel it off and look at the intake side. There may be a tiny piece of old gasket that wasn't removed for the carburetor base or the intake. Check the carburetor base is not cracked. I would try to correct this first before trying to make any adjustments. " I think i found the cause of the vacuum leak. I had installed the bottom gasket upside down. That cutou
  12. Hey Hainz, Well when I spray behind the carburetor the engine stumbles & feels like it wants to die. Henry
  13. OK Mike, thanks Weird thing is that I always thought that the engine would run faster when spraying the base that had a leak. No big problem removing carburetor. Henry
  14. Hi Mike, So I looked at that solenoid ( BCDD ); removed it & plugged up the hole. Started up vehicle & RPM's shot up to 1500. Installed the BCDD back & RPM's came down enough where I could actually do some adjusting. I've got it down to about 1000 & sometimes the engine shuts down without dieseling. I next decided to spray some carburetor cleaner around the base of the carb. When I sprayed at the rear the engine bogs down. Would that signify a vacuum leak where the base gaskets are? ( that would be weird because the gaskets are pretty new - a
  15. I did adjust the valves a while back; perhaps I should recheck. And the throttle is a linkage system. " Are you saying the power doesn't shut off or is the engine dieseling after shutdown.." The engine diesels after shutdown. Sorry, I should have been more clear. I did rebuild the carburetor 2 years ago. I think I was careful with it. Timing chain & oil pump have been replaced. OK, I will try to remove solenoid & plug cavity. An issue is that the wires have been cut flush with the exterior walls of the solenoid. So there is in effect no wiring
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