yenpit

Woah cool! 😎 I've been looking for the Chevy K5 K10 rally wheels for my 521, no luck yet! Gonna use a set of 15in 720 4WD steelies for now............

............if you have a worn out/damaged Wagon assembly, then figure out a way to swap the rod & float! Again, the end is peened to hold in place, so that would be the complication!

Thanks rosso! So again, the units are pretty much the same, except the Wagon & 240Z have a simple terminal spot welded to the unit, the Sedan does not.......the pic datzenmike posted above ^^^^^ shows only one terminal. The big difference is in the float rod. I don't see why a Sedan or 240Z assembly couldn't be modified, but if it's jerry rigged, it will eventually fail on you.........need to "extend" the float rod properly & bend to suit!

Pics sent via text!

........just buy the whole parts truck from me, not just the bed!! 😅

Biggest problem is gonna be that the Wagon float rod is MUCH longer than the Sedan, is bent differently (easy to deal with) & has a bend down near the unit head that is pretty close to a 90deg bend. Wagon float rod is overall about 12-1/4 inches long (long NLS NLA from Nissan) Sedan float rod is overall about 8 inches long (above link shows available from zcardepot, but long NLS NLA from Nissan) 240Z float rod is overall about 10-1/2 inches long (still available from Nissan) A really good tig welder could lengthen the rod, but it is a very thin rod. I see no reason why you couldn't tig a "sleeve" in place to lengthen, but again, the complication of mod'ing a Sedan unit into a Wagon unit, is that the Wagon has a 90deg bend all the way down the rod, right near the pivot point............not impossible, but a complication! The float rod is "peened" (flattened out) at the unit head, right at the pivot point, so removal & replacement would be a challenge. To remove, you would need to carefully grind away the "peen". I don't have a good idea on re-peening to install, especially cuz there is not much room to get a tool on that end to squeeze on a peened end again! Hope that makes sense! The floats are the same. All three unit heads listed above are ultimately the same, but the rods are very different (other than the Wagon added ground terminal).................the WAGON unit head has two terminals........one power, one ground, thus I assume that the Wagon has two wires at the sending unit. The Sedan has one power terminal, must ground thru the tank. A good electrical guy COULD potentially re-do the wire windings on a worn out original unit, but my tech seems to think the winding wire would be difficult to replicate, cuz it is ultra thin gauge. I have 3 or 4 USED Sedan units where the windings are worn & broken, so I'm confident that that is the most common issue with an old original unit. I have a couple pics, but sorry, I don't host & post pics, so a real pain for me to do it. I can TEXT pics to somebody that can host & post here..............PM me! TJ

Wonder where zcardepot is getting these......thought they were long NLA NLS.........?? More & more 510 parts coming back into production in aftermarket, with the values climbing......good thing!

I have a Wagon unit, but it is oxidized badly from parts car sitting for 20++ years! I assume a good electrical guy can clean & maybe even re-wind the rhestat style electrical windings if needed.......?? PM if interested. I will also lay out a Sedan unit next to it to compare. The circular rigid part will fit either way, cuz all of this era Datsun's use the same oring seal & lock ring. As datzenmike says, the main difference TJ

Yup, that BAT truck is nice...............see where the mulla $$$$ goes!!

Welcome.....again! Now I see why you need the bed! Keep in touch, hope to have the parts truck sooner than later, we will talk about possibly getting the bed over to you! TJ

Brake nuts are metric with a 10mm hex head, brake & clutch hard lines are 3/16 🙂

Niles was an OE manufacturer for Datsun! I don't see why you can't solder a ground wire to those cheaper ones. If I recall, all the 510 & Z car switches were 2 wire.

I've got a 510 here & a 280Z center console..................will see if the console is a possibility! TJ

Yup, my 72 521 has the door jamb switch holes. These holes were very likely the same as the 510 & Z car................Japanese typically did not re-engineer stuff! I bet you can follow the 510 or Z car wiring schematic to wire up the 521........?

Triple posts!! Wooohooo!! Can you post a pic under dash from left side looking at the heater assembly, a pic from right side looking at assembly & a pic of the outer firewall in the engine compartment, right behind the engine........that's where the two heater pipes (in & out) come thru the firewall! Hopefully with pics, we can help identify good bad & indifferent! TJ

The USA spec 70-73 heater controls above the radio, had cables that ran down the USA spec passenger side to the heater assembly............I think three cables...........

Wonder if the more common USA spec heater assembly would fit? I'm sure the Japanese engineers would not alter the basic chassis to keep production costs down, but the RHD dash configuration might be an issue.....?? If ANY other RHD country had a similar/same heater assembly as us, then I would guess you could do it......?? But if the heater valve is the biggest hurdle, I'm sure you can find a simple current production universal fit ON-OFF cable operated in line heater valve that would work. Although I haven't done it yet, I have theorized a means of plumbing a USA spec 510 differently than stock, because many of the CA18 SR20 KA24 swaps mount the engine right up against the firewall, thus blocking the ability to hook up the stock heater assembly IN & OUT tubes. I have worked on & off in the British parts industry here over the years & the Triumph TR6 had a simple hose junction at the firewall & universal heater hoses, maybe with couple of 90deg pre-formed bend hoses for clearance etc, with an in line universal cable operated heater valve..........

........I was afraid of that! 😣

Can't remember what wheels/rims your car has on it, but if aftermarket, there are LOTS of different lug nut styles that often can't be mixed. You likely have a proper source in the UK, as the UK offered LOTS of different aftermarket wheels! However, if you need a resource to help figure out WHAT you need, check out these guys here in the States............. https://customwheelaccessories.com/?SID=80315ac8831160d848feb62f47445262

Nice project! 😎

Nice 200SX! Do you know Greg Wold in Minneapolis? He vintage races a Mini Cooper & a 510...........he has a spare 510 vintage race car for sale if you are at all interested, but he sometimes finds a street car to flip! Crap, he was JUST here in Denver a couple days ago, driving back home to MN.......I have some 200SX parts, mostly trim, I would have given to you! His daughter lives here, we always get together for a beer when he visits! Keep in touch, I'm happy to pass the parts along if he DRIVES to & from again! TJ Denver CO

Welcome! I'm up in Denver, got lots of Datsun nuts around! I'm a 510 guy, but just bought a 521 flat bed. Bob3 is manager at Pikes Peak International Raceway, has at least TWO 521's, one with full Miata drivetrain & suspension......it is KILLER KOOL!! TJ