yenpit

Welcome & nice project! I will have a stock cast iron exhaust manifold, HOWEVER I do not have any more downpipes (long NLA NLS unfortunately)! If that is yours in the pic, use it! PM if interested! IF that is NOT yours in the pic, what do you have that you think is not good? TJ

When I was in small town Holland Michigan, the Greyhound Depot was 5min from my shop............easy & worked well for big parts! I'm now in Arvada Colorado, just outside of Denver, and it is almost a 2hr round trip cuz of distance & traffic..........simply out of the question for me here!

The side of the distributor body. Most if not all Datsun distributors will have a part # stamped on the side of the distributor. I have successfully google searched dizzy part #'s, usually showing what that part # fit. Your #D411-94702 shows to be for a DAtsun A series engine, so we can assume your truck has the earlier A series engine & that should be a distributor that will fit!

I bought a TWO pair of these for a 73 510 project............look great! I think the one pair for the door locks will work just fine, as above for a truck. Only issue I see in regards to using on the trunk & fuel filler lid on a 68-73 510 Sedan, is that the shaft on the NEW lock cylinder is LARGER that the shaft on the old cylinder, thus the original flat steel "arms" will require opening up the hole, to fit the new cylinder shaft. I have NOT attempted to do this yet (other projects ahead of it). I think the lock cylinders are the same, but they have completely different "arms" that actuate the latching. If you are doing a 510 & you have a friendly parts guy at the counter, maybe you could get him to try to find TWO lock pairs with the same key code (stamped on the new keys), so all ock cylinders would be the same key! Wonder if LockSmart would offer two pair with matched key code & sell them directly to you? I just might contact them...................😁

All that info is available online............just need to do a l'il research & footwork! 😎

............and remember to ALWAYS match the throw out bearing SLEEVE with the particular clutch being used!

If you are simply cruising in the 510, buy a good quality insert ie KYB, Monroe etc. If you drive "spirited" and/or some track day events, spend more mulla on a higher quality insert ie Koni, Bilstein etc. If really serious, buy an adjustable insert!

We send brake boosters to Power Brake Booster Exchange for rebuilding. Fast turnaround, but your vehicle is down for that period. Other option is buy another of the same unit, send that one in, perhaps you can continue driving yours..........??

Happened here east of Colorado Springs. Killer old school yard, Dad passed, yard closed down, son wanted to sell off the good cars (there were lots!), his sisters said "No insurance, no way!", so they sold the property & crushed most of the cars. I have not been down there to see what became of it, but heard from the son it was closed & done!

Nice!! Selling it off to good homes!! 😎

I use 88-93 Acura Integra (88-89 vs 90-93 different styles) & 97-99 Honda Prelude, but they are vary hard to find NOT torn up. Others ie Subaru Impreza, Honda Civic.......... Pretty much any sport compact car bucket seat should fit, width wise. I ALWAYS use the seat slide tracks from the seat you choose & modify the mounting. Some you can simply bend to suit, others you might need to cut & reweld. Always use LARGE flat washers under the floor pan, if using thru bolts.

I too, agree!! Example, I won't ship front or rear glass. I have boxed & shipped MANY big heavy bulky odd shaped parts over the years, but I'm finding recently, that I do not have the time any longer to spend on "custom" boxing, nor do I enjoy it any more!! When I needed a big box in the past, I would dumpster dive, but many OEM parts are no longer coming in boxes........ie Subaru went "green" a few years ago & stopped delivering parts stock orders in boxes. Those were GREAT boxes, but now mostly gone! We get quick rains here in Denver, so any boxes out in dumpsters typically get wet, thus ruined! Yup, I'm not really interested in selling & SHIPPING big bulky parts.............. Years ago, I palleted & truck freighted a rare Austin Healey front apron/nose............big long hugely bulky but light aluminum panel. I was so freakin' careful, clear wrapped so the trucking company could SEE it & printed RED signage on all four corners "FRAGILE!! PLEASE NO STACK NO STEP!!". Buyer contacts me furious, cuz it was squashed, with a big dirty BOOT PRINT right on top!! I explained (with pics) that it was shipped perfectly, that the trucking company held ALL RESPONSIBILITY! Thankfully, I never heard back. Shame really, cuz was a rare body panel!

Locate a FedEx store near you! They will box up ANYTHING within reason. It might be as simple as a buyer pays you for the part & you simply drop it off at FedEx, have the buyer pay them directly! I sell LOTS of Datsun parts. When I sell a large bulky part, I ask the buyer to PRE pay for the part (which locks them in to buying), then I spend the time/labor boxing the part up & they pay for shipping. I do NOT do this on normal parts that I can pack in a normal box, that does not take much time/labor. If FedEx works for you, then hopefully it's as simple as dropping the part off, once paid for! NOS parts are killer cool! Good luck!

I will have 510 pitman arm nuts, but I have NO IDEA if they will fit a 620. Sounds like you need the big nut that holds the pitman arm to the steering box?? If you figure out a 510 will work, let me know! TJ

I should have a USA spec LHD front cable USED (second hand). If you look at your e/brake handle assembly at the firewall, you will see that the front cable is "peened" in place on the handle base assembly. I'm not sure how you could UN-peen it without cutting into the handle base where it is peened.......?? I bet the front cable is the same, just moved over to the right side.......?? I should also have the other USA spec cable parts. Let me know if I can help! TJ

I was taught many years ago in the British parts industry, that in ANY performance application, you should use a tri-metal bearing. For standard street use, a bi-metal bearing was just fine. With that knowledge & meeting MANY engine builders over the years, specializing in British, I marketed the tri-metal Vandervell Bearings (now out of business) and sold THOUSANDS of sets! 😎

www.kfvintagejdm.com might have stamped by now OR he can simply hand make them! We are using his Z car patch panels & they are excellent fit & quality. He has hand made a number of panels for us (that he is not stamping yet) & they have fit very well! He is also making many 510 patch panels, I'm just not sure if he has these stamped yet? There is an Australian company hand making this panel, but shipping is expensive. FYI Dave at Futofab is marketing full OEM style only panels..............no small patch panels. TJ

We have learned to plug or tape off (there is a special tape) everything BEFORE powdercoating! Extra work to start, but much less hassle in the end. Most powdercoaters do NOT know (or care?) what to plug or tape off, so we do it.............. Ducky, great info on the hardware!!