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yenpit

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Everything posted by yenpit

  1. OK, please STOP posting pics of that nasty old bat................🤢
  2. Location, location, location! I will have good USED if you can't find NEW. PM if you need!
  3. Yes. My local buddy likely doesn't give a rats ass about having a spare............his Wagon is a Ratsun at its best! 😎
  4. We aluminum oxide (aggressive media) media blast all aluminum & stainless that we plan to paint or powdercoat...........both need a "tooth" (rough surface) to adhere. Problem then is you have much more work to go back & polish, if you or the next owner want to go back. If you do not media blast, the good part is the paint or powdercoat should come off relatively easily & less effort to polish back! I have always compared the late 70's-80's "blackout" material to the PlastiDip that we have today.............maybe that is an option? However, even with PlastiDip, I would suggest media blasting! Our favorite aerosol paint for trim is SEM brand "Trim Black", which is a matte black & it lays out great, with proper surface prep! Good luck with the project! PS we just put the early "smiley" bumpers on a 1977 Celica & a few other street car mods. The customer will tackle getting the car painted & detailed!
  5. If you want to see just how much fabrication it takes to do an IRS swap in another Datsun, research the 68-72 510 WAGON IRS swap............there have been a few IRS swaps done. I sold a complete 510 IRS set up to a local guy PLUS a Sedan (IRS) complete cut out rear floor assembly. The floor assembly gave him the factory floor pan which allowed all the necessary clearance AND it gave him the four mounting points............two for mustache bar & two for subframe........ no guessing! He got it done, said it was a tremendous amount of cutting, trimming fitting custom & welding. Once the floor was in, it was basically a bolt in for the IRS set up. I'm guessing the most important factor to consider, is the width of the 510 IRS vs the 411 body. I bet you don't want to try to narrow the 510 IRS! 😖 I have a mostly complete IRS set up that can be used as a CORE to rebuild & install (just old worn out & ugly, no damage), and I'm happy to get a couple quick measurements first to see if it would even be manageable in the 411! As a "unit", it would be TRUCK FREIGHT. I do NOT have a floor section. If measurements prove to be reasonable, you really should look for a completely worn out wrecked junked 68-72 510 4dr (or 2dr, but not cheap these days in ANY condition!) regionally, so you get all the potential parts necessary AND other 510 parts to sell off to recoup some mulla! Avoid the Mexican built 4dr 510's, as they are leaf spring solid axle like the USA spec Wagon's..........I see more & more of them for sale here in the USA, especially in CA, cuz of location close to Mexico & they are cheap down there! A seller of a Mexican 510 does NOT always mention that, so always ask! TJ
  6. Chances are you can use the 68-73 510 "kit" offered by seatbeltplanet online. That kit uses all "aftermarket" parts, so I bet easily adapted to the 610. The nice thing about this kit is they include a "drop down" extension, which lowers the upper/headliner mounting point, so the belt doesn't ride up the side of your neck! As you likely know, the 510 is much more common than the 1+ year 610, so they likely haven't "test fit" on a 610.................but you could ask them! Good luck with the project!
  7. Ooops! Do you have a B210 or a 510? I will only have 510, not B210! It is possible that the plastic bezel is the same, but the metal panels will NOT be the same............
  8. I should have some trashed/rusty metal panels.......maybe I can "cut" it off (it is plastic welded in place as mentioned above ^^^^^, so you would have to glue/epoxy it back in place) OR I might have a good left side with that bezel in place. I sandblast & paint with SEM Trim Black (aerosol)..........you paint both sides so they match. PM if interested! TJ
  9. I heard that the Velocity Int'l only accepts period B Sedan cars.........could be wrong. Goodwood in the UK & SVRA here have a class similar to that also. None of our vintage race Z cars have that kind of race history (we build from rusty wrecked street cars + a Z car was not B Sedan), so we have never participated in that kind of class/event! One of our Z customers WANTS to, so we are always on the lookout for a reasonable priced Z with 1970's race history. We did have one in our customer base, that was built & raced from new, but Terry had stopped racing it & sold it, just before I started working here, AND it was just before the values of the Z cars started climbing. I think he sold it for $28k, which was a steal even back then, but it is currently being raced out of Pittsburgh these days! 😎
  10. Agree! So I think with some imagination, the plate above on FleaBay could be carefully modified/altered to read "P521" (no L, cuz likely a RHD), then stamp the VIN # & production date.
  11. So the OP could buy this plate, potentially have the pre-printed PREFIX of the VIN# carefully removed & re-printed with his PREFIX, then stamped (seller calls it "engraved") with the remainder of the VIN # (to match his existing VIN) & his guess at a production date, hopefully based on datzenmike's info! The OP is NOT altering the VIN #, just "covering his needs" with his UK vehicle registration. I think that is the best option............. OP is MIA ☹️............hope this helps! 😁
  12. I've had couple liberal friends that obviously only watch main stream media, ask me why I think Fauci is scum! Geez people, open your eyes & pay attention to other media that TELLS THE TRUTH! 😡
  13. I also just looked closer to this pic.............the model # (ie a 240Z is HLS30******) is PRE-printed on the plate, so that doesn't work for this guy! Maybe he can buy this plate & find someone in the UK that can copy it, but with the 521 model # printed instead.......?? I heard these are silk screen printed, so copying & modifying could work, but creating a one-off plate could be expensive! Like the USA, if a new plate "looks" wanky, they might fail it at the UK's dvla........then what? Do they "mark" the VIN # in the data base as NOT able to register?? Ugh, these VIN # things can be impossible............😖
  14. Maybe you & original poster here can talk about his specific VIN # privately? He never stated what YEAR his truck is...........??
  15. Well THAT is a great start for him! He can estimate the production date. The problem in any country would be "estimating" a VIN #...............which you can't do! The part that might be difficult is finding a blank VIN plate for the door jamb........again, I think all I've seen is for the 240Z, which would have "HLS30" printed on the plate, thus incorrect for the 521! So I just checked eBay........there are quite a few actual VIN plates available (I haven't looked in a while!), HOWEVER they are the VIN plates in the engine compartment for specific cars, NOT the door jamb plates with the production date. Here is one (hope the link works!). I have messaged the seller asking if the production date stamping is left BLANK, so a buyer can stamp what they need (the pic shows the plate as stamped.........??). I will message back later, once I hear from the seller! https://www.ebay.com/itm/302007615466?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=302007615466&targetid=1645685074288&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9028785&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074288&abcId=9300841&merchantid=113577379&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInOSR8uz5-gIVYxB9Ch3FNAsjEAQYCCABEgKAZvD_BwE
  16. Yup, this is the problem............could be different than USA or UK requirements. I think all of the USA spec door jamb plates were riveted on & the engine bay plates were screwed on..........??
  17. The door jamb ID plate shows the production date & the VIN #. The engine compartment ID plate shows the model, the VIN #, the engine # and a couple other useless things, but NOT the production date. I have seen charts online for the more popular 240Z's & the 510/1600's, showing a relationship with the VIN # vs the production date, but that kind of info is very limited out of Japan.............they simply did not keep good records! It sounds like it is required to have the door jamb plate in the UK, with the production date? Somebody online was reproducing the VIN plates in BLANK, so you could stamp them with your own vehicle info, however I only remember seeing the popular Z cars plates made, which are made FOR the Z cars, with Z car only info! The other issue there is, is that the USA DOT (Dept of Transportation) is very strict & might have contacted the seller & ordered a cease & desist (stop selling), cuz Federal law prohibits ANY & ALL tampering with VIN #'s. We are not "allowed" to re-stamp a VIN # by law! I was always baffled how Banks in the UK could take a much newer classic Mini, swap the VIN # on from an early classic Mini junker, creating a more modern classic Mini titled as an older classic Mini!? They shipped 100's of them over here to the States.
  18. yenpit

    510 Heater Parts

    I should have. All you need is that big plastic cover?
  19. Are you building the Hillman Husky? There is at least one sitting in a private junkyard here in Denver. I thought about grabbing it a few years ago, but didn't! It was still there 4 mo's ago............
  20. Love this! Dare to be different! 😎
  21. Also do NOT see anything out of place! What was the issue/symptom?
  22. Cool find! 😎 HAve you looked for the old SCCA # stamped on the drivers side vertical roll bar hoop? This was the SCCA registration & log book #, that all SCCA cars had to have. You should at least document that, especially if you plan to modify or remove the roll bar! If you find that #, contact that SCCA regional office (in WA?) & ask for racing documentation/copies of log bokks etc. This does not always work, as many of these old SCCA records are long gone. With that # & name, you can also contact the IMRRC in Watkins Glen NY.......they did help me with documentation on a 510 race car I found (see below). It is GREAT that you found Barry & he is cooperating, but the more documentation you have, the more value as a race car in the vintage venues, if/when you decide to sell it! I found an old SCCA 510 last year, found the roll bar #, contacted SCCA, they gave me a name, found the original owner/builder online, who eventually bought the car back from me! He had sold it in 1976, lost track of it! Once I found it had B Sedan history from the 70's, I could NOT justify taking that history away from it by putting it on the street & I could not afford to restore it to BS specs for racing, so he & I made the deal!
  23. "They" do not care, they have an agenda & we only have "conspiracy theories" about why this mess was created! It ain't over...........😖
  24. I wish Dav would go with them!! 🤓🙄
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