Z-train

"Next up is exhaust. I am going to go with a single 2.25" with a glasspack and a side exit in front of the rear tire. I want it to be throaty when I step on it!" Walker super-turbo will do the same without annoying the shit out of you and everyone with-in 100 feet of the car.

Sexual harassment will NOT BE TOLERATED.It will however be graded.

I am dismissing it.Out of hand in fact.As it can't happen without a external heat source.Any of those problems you illustrate are just that -problems.With all things being "correct",fuel WILL NOT boil in the lines from the tank to the pump.

Step-sides?.........PA-TOOE!

You're talking about the Zx's(no other Datsun had them) which had a fan pointed at the injectors.Because even with a return line & hood vents,they still ran high underhood temps.

Beware of chain stretch or the head was cut and thay didn't advance the cam gear properly.If any of this is true,they looking at markings won't mean squat.If the head has been cut any more than 5 thou,the gear needs to be on the #2 hole at least.

Replace every inch of rubber hose on that car ASAP!

O.K.,now this is getting out of hand.There is NO HEAT SOURCE that can cause fuel to boil in the lines underneath the truck short of a fire(nudge-wink). This is not Datsun specific-this is auto mechanics 101. I have a mechanical pump & a return line with everything sound in-between.No issues last summer with 90 days of triple digit temps in a row. Get a good pump and a guage.You can dial the FP right to the number by changing the size of the orifice on the return line.You can also make up a fitting that utilizes Holley jets so you can chang the PSI just by changing a jet.

I guess no-one here knows wrenches that have been working for 20+ years in the business.Their bodies get beat to death.ANy oldhead wrench has all sorts of physical ailments account of the job.

Unless the grass underneath the truck is on fire.

None of mine do.

Oh,look-a table to eat at!

If all you do is lower(numerically)the ratio,your MPGs will get WORSE.You're at least 10 MPG below what you should be getting.Find the problem and fix it.Hint:VERY few people know Webers well enough to get them right.

nope.

Don't waste your time with the shield.The heat issue is coming fom the "carb side" of the engine.There are factory shield for the carb.Between those & a return line you should be good.I have both and i have no issues and i'm in Tucson. Another route that's more involved:Notice that early 720's had hood vents.I picked up some ZX vents and they will be going on my 810.the 620 will be done after that.

Hi pressure pump on factory carbs & ESPECIALLY Webers is not a good idea.Get a good low pressure pump and use a return line. PCD-that spacer also changes pump arm geometry. 79 factory A/C trucks came with a rear mounted electric pump.

A lot of "rear leakage" is caused by the vent on the axle tube being plugged up.When this happens,the oil is forced past the gasket.Clean your rear end. ANd you can't just go throwing a new ratio in there with out trade-offs.

Boneyard and get mounts from a donor Z.

My bullets are custom.

Z-22 block Z-22 crank Z-20 rods 89mm slugs =2.3

Ding-ding-ding!!! Everything is a trade off.The engineers didn't put those hears in there just for shits & giggles.Rule of thumb is that for every 10 % increase in HP,you can have an equal reduction in gear ratio.

Here are my pedals.Note the strange alignment: What i did was take the factory brake pedal and trace the stick pedal portion on the auto brake pad and then cut it down using this pad from a Z pedal as a guide:

MOTHER F-ING Photobucket!!!!! here's the shot of the N-22 flange.

My tank measures 11.5 X 12.5 X 32.So they're close.Hmmm,maybe i'll have to look into retro-fitting this early tank to my 78.

Any ideas what these are from?