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LeDevil

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I went out and started my car today I let it get to normal temp, I drove down the street maybe half a block and it got with in a quarter inch of the red on the stock temp gauge in a 510. I pulled over let it idle and it dropped down to normal. I turned around and drove home and it did it again. It only starts to get HOTT when I drive? What would cause this? I let the car idle for 25-30 minutes in my garage after I got home and it didn't get past the normal/middle of my gauge. It has plenty of coolant, car has the stock 510 l16 fan so no clutch and it works fine.

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What condition is the radiator in? Are all the fins in good shape? Have you flushed the radiator and block? Also, is the mechanical advance for the distirbutor working? If the dizzy is not advancing a high RPM the car can run hot.

 

Another thing to try would be to see if turning the heater on makes a difference in how hot the car runs.

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Duke: Radiator is good has a couple fins here and there that are bent, I have flushed the engine and block. As for the dizzy thing car seems to run fine at higher Rpms. Little hesitant some times but I have a feeling my carb needs rebuilt. Just in case how do I tell if the Mechanical Advance is messed up? If it was messed up the car should run like crap at higher Rpms right?

 

Ichouse: The heater you can feel get hotter when the car starts to get hotter, the lower hose gets real hott after I drive it

 

Zuum: I'd say I have about a 60/65 mixture, I re read my previous post and I see it seems I said yea its pure I meant yea it's mixed.

 

 

Thanks for all the help guys

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Your NOT supposed to run PURE antifreeze!! THAT will make it run hot... you should never run more than 70% antifreeze. Water is what "cools" the engine, NOT antifreeze... when the bottle says, antifreeze/coolant 50/50 its half antifreeze, half water.

 

i was telling him to add it to the water thats already in there, not run %100 antifreeze

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The easiest way to check if the distributor is advancing in to just hook up a timing light and give the motor a few rev's and see if the timing mark moves. It should move a good amount (about 25-30 degree's total advance if I remember correctly). If it doesn't advance, the car will still run ok at high rpm, it will just be down on power and tend to run a little hot. While your at it make sure that your car is timed to spec at idle.

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Lozer, Datzenmike: Car runs like crap when it's cold btu thats because the previous owner removed all the choke assembly off the Weber but once warm runs great.

 

Slodat: By chance you knwo what I need to lube it up with any thing specific?

 

Fastdadd: Yea once the Car is warm and if I remove the cap I can see the coolant streaming along nicely.

 

 

This may be dumb but a Fan shroud wouldn't just start to affect this would it? The car has never had one on it. I thought I would ask?

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The fan shroud would only have an affect on low speed stuff, where the fan is doing most of the cooling, so it wouldn't cause the problem that you are having.

 

In regards to the mechanical advance, once you disassemble the dizzy, you will see two small weights connected to springs that move outward as the dizzy shaft turns faster. Just make sure these weights move easily, as I have had mine get caught up and not let the timing advance a higher rpm, causing the problem that you are describing.

 

Its just a thought. Personally I wouldn't trust the stock temp gauge very much, and would recomend a good auxilliary one so you really know whats going on.

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is it running lean ? is the water pump good? is it flowing through the heater and not the rad? around 3 quarters of the gauge was normal for my car be for I stole steves fan shroud and moded my thermo stat when i putt in my new engine

 

pull the valve cover off and make sure you don't have milky build up in side i blew a head gasket once and caught it just in time be for it blew all the way. when i looked at the oil in the dip stick it did not look creamy.

you could always take the hermo stat out and see what it do's gaskets are only 2 bucks.

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Ok i think i know whats up! If you just changed your belt a couple days ago and this just started to happen. THEN you over tightend your belt and the bearing in the water pump went bye bye. Ive had the impeller seperate from the bearing assemble in a old 2002 bmw i had it drove me nuts for a day or 2 till i played with the pully and felt the slop.

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