What now......

[LeDevil]

Dislexic: The water pump is roughly 2 weeks old and no creamy build up any where. As for running lean I've adjusted it to the specs I found on I think it was Dime quarterly mixture screw is roughly 1 3/4 turns to 2 out

 

 

Well I have no clue to as of what the hell is going on BUT the car isn't getting hot any more :shrug: I was out for roughly 45 minutes playing in the snow and it stayed where it normally does right around or on the "E" of temp. It normally stays around or on the "E" but when it was getting hot it was way past the "P" almost on the red. I'm thinking maybe a sticking thermostat so tomorrow I'm gonna buy another new one and re flush my coolant for the hell of it.

[Cuts metal like mad]

sounds like a short to ground in the temp sender wire. Had that happen before...

[Lozer]

go buy an aftermarket temp gauge (20 bucks) the temp should stay around 160 when warm.

[racerx]

Yes can be your temp. gauge.

 

You can ohm it out.

 

 

RacerX

[MikeRL411]

If you buy a new thermostat, you might want to check it before installing it. Put it in a pot of water and heat until it starts to open, check water temp with a thermometer. Then take off the flame and check water temp as it recloses. Lately I have found that 180 degree thermostats won't open until over 190 degrees and are shut tight at 180, and 160s open around 185. I kept returning until I got a correctly calibrated one. Crappy quality control.

[datzenmike]

The thermostat starts to open at the specified amount stamped on it. The standard one for most L20Bs is 180 F and is fully 8mm open at 203F. Once the thermostat starts to open the motor's running temp is determined by the rad size/efficiency, air flow, fan belt/pump/fan blades etc. You should be able to run a 180 thermostat in the desert without problems. If you need to run a 160 thermostat to keep the temp down you haven't fixed the problem. You need a more efficient cooling system to get rid of the heat. Like a larger 3 core rad, electric auxiliary fan or larger water pump

[DISLEXICDIME]

all my l series in average oregon weather hav ran just past the p on temp keep an eye on your coolant see if it disappears

[LeDevil]

SOB :cursing::cursing::cursing:! Went out today and it did it again. Just like before got hot and spewed coolant from the pressure release port on the radiator. I turned the heater fan on and tapped the thermostat housing with the back of a screw driver. Then it dropped down to normal range for the whole time I drove the car. I've been messing with it all day again and I noticed it will only start to get hott when the car cools all the way down and it's the first start up of it being cool (bottom of the gauge) then I have to do my little system again tap thermostat housing and turn the heater fan on.

 

So far I have replaced that dam thermostat 3 times (I tested them before install) and flushed the system twice coolant is nice and green in color.

 

But problem is still here :mad:

[Cuts metal like mad]

SOB :cursing::cursing::cursing:! Went out today and it did it again. Just like before got hot and spewed coolant from the pressure release port on the radiator. I turned the heater fan on and tapped the thermostat housing with the back of a screw driver. Then it dropped down to normal range for the whole time I drove the car. I've been messing with it all day again and I noticed it will only start to get hott when the car cools all the way down and it's the first start up of it being cool (bottom of the gauge) then I have to do my little system again tap thermostat housing and turn the heater fan on.

 

So far I have replaced that dam thermostat 3 times (I tested them before install) and flushed the system twice coolant is nice and green in color.

 

But problem is still here :mad:

 

Do you have the stock radiator in this car or some kind of retrofit?

[LeDevil]

Everything is stock

[Cuts metal like mad]

very strange... Seems like it could be an air pocket or something. My 510 has a coolant bypass from the lower rad hose outlet to the thermostat housing, the heater hose also connects to the lower rad hose outlet... Hmmm.

 

Fuck, sorry man... I'm tired as he'll and just lost my train of thought. :lol:

 

Try again tomorrow.

[LeDevil]

My Heater Core hose has one of those Flush T insert things in it and I have tried using that to get all the air out but I don't know whats up. I'm not going threw coolant unless it gets hot and spews it out, once I tap the thermostat housing and turn the heater on everything is good until I turn the car off and it coools all the way down.

[Duke]

Try getting it up to temp with the radiator cap off. Get it hot enough that the t-stat opens (you will be able to see coolant start flowing in the radiator). Also make sure that the heater valve is open when you are doing this. Make sure that once it is all up to temp the coolant level doesn't drop a bunch. If it does that is a sign of excessive air in the system, which could cause an airlock.

 

Another way to avoid this is to drill a small 1/8" hole in the thermostat so allow coolant to flow by even if it is closed. This is something that I do with every thermostat that I put in to avoid airlocks in the system.

[datzenmike]

Change the thermostat.

 

Years ago I had that happen too. On cold startup the gauge would go right up to the top of the run range and then drop down to almost cold, then back up way high and back about 4-5 times and then would settle down to normal running. I guess it was sticking??? Got rid of it like an unfaithful wife and the new one does what's she told. (uh, what it's told) :D

[LeDevil]

Duke: I'll drill that hole tonight and see what happens, As for running with out the cap I've done that and it doesn't seem to drop very much if at all.

 

Datzenmike: It's been replaced 3 times now. I've tested all 3 and it seems as soon as they get in the car they don't wanna work any more :confused:

[datzenmike]

Some thermostats have the hole but it is an excellent idea. Also the hole forces warmed water past the thermostat so it can sample it. There is usually a small hose from the thermostat housing down to the lower rad hose for this. Because the thermostat is mounted outside the motor it needs some flow past it. I wouldn't worry about trapped air bubbles except on any initial fill up of the rad. As soon as the thermostat opens air will burp out and collect in the top of the rad.

[yello620]

I recently had this same thing happen with brand new thermostats from NAPA. Motor would get really hot before it opened, then it would cool way off, it would do this a couple of times before it would settle down and run normally.

 

I am done with napa thermostas for a while, try a different brand.

[LeDevil]

So the thermostats I got have this little brass fitting that kinda wobbled in this small hole. I ripped that out ran the car for awhile and what do you know a couple huge ass air pockets came out. I let the car cool the rest of the day went out started it and it got to the "E" and stayed like it used to. Thanks for the help guys. I'm not gonna say it's fixed because if I do it'll screw up on me again.

[DISLEXICDIME]

that t with the cap on it is for flushing not for getting rid of air