Dusten Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 36 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: or the alternater output wire. if your Fan had a thermocouple w relay that might have been ok (esp in hot areas. Both mine get really HOT on 85deg plus days if stuck in traffic even with the 3 cores. but stock little 4 blade fan No... The heater fan. It has a stock fan. It's never got hot. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 On 10/13/2023 at 7:33 AM, Dusten said: Mike, The alternator is internally regulated. There is no regulator on the fender. Find the choke heater relay should be on the passenger side inner fender. May be under that black plastic box? Small rectangular about the size of a ping pong ball. Four wires... White/Blue stripe Blue Black Yellow Unplug and check if there is still a parasitic draw. If it's gone now this is because the conversion to internally regulated alternator will wire the choke heater RELAY on permanently. Power to the automatic choke will be off with the ignition but the tiny coil in the relay will be on. If left for more than a weekend it will drain your battery enough to make starting difficult. This needs to be fixed, you can't run without a working choke heater. Let me know, this happened on my two 710s when I converted them. Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 Because I have a Weber the choke is wired differently. So I can't see a need for that relay. I'll see if that's the cause. Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 Thanks Mike Grabbed my fluke and pulled the negative off the battery to measure draw. As soon as I pulled the negative I heard a relay click. The choke relay was warm. Verified removing the relay removed the draw With the relay off I still have 12v to my choke. I pulled the relay apart and gutted it and hooked it back up so I don't have a hot plug open. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2023 Finished up new valve seals Valve cover gasket Valve adjustment Noticed I need to do some suspension work... Is the bushing replaceable or do I need to replace the arms? 2 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2023 (edited) Edited October 22, 2023 by Dusten 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 13 hours ago, Dusten said: Finished up new valve seals Valve cover gasket Valve adjustment Noticed I need to do some suspension work... Is the bushing replaceable or do I need to replace the arms? You just need new bushings.... Easy job.... Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: You just need new bushings.... Easy job.... Perfect. I asked because some suspension you can and some you can't when it comes to bushing replacement Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 The rubber? 54519-08700 if they still have them. ...and I forgot to hit the ENTER key yesterday. These bushing look suspiciously like those on the leaf springs so I checked 54519-08700 for other uses and unfortunately they are unique to the UCA on the 521 and 620. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 7 minutes ago, Dusten said: Perfect. I asked because some suspension you can and some you can't when it comes to bushing replacement Those bushings fail pretty often unfortunately.... I had new ones on my 521 and failed within a couple years... maybe 10000 miles.... Mikeklotz designed a nice upgrade with a poly bushing with delrin washer on the ends... I looked but he is no longer making them... The rubber ones should be easy enough to find.... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 (edited) Yes those bushing are common and avail I jack up the drum to get the preload off(PB BLASTER the shit out of it, loosen the nut to get it started out, whack it with a hammer, then I use a punch so I dont fuck up the threads. Yes Mike made some bushings and I got 2 but havent installed them yet. maybe be good to grease those upI dont know Edited October 23, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 23, 2023 Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 One thing I know is you should do the final torque on that bolt with the wheels on ground and resting on its weight.... I suppose you could put a jack under the control arm for the same affect... I believe you wanna torque it at your ride height so it doesn't over twist or something like that when you set it back down.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2023 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: One thing I know is you should do the final torque on that bolt with the wheels on ground and resting on its weight.... I suppose you could put a jack under the control arm for the same affect... I believe you wanna torque it at your ride height so it doesn't over twist or something like that when you set it back down.... That goes for all suspension. Final torque should always be done with weight on. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 I'm sitting around waiting on parts and decided... Let's test compression. The verdict. She's tired Cold engine. Throttle held open. 115-120 across the board. Checked cam timing and it seems right. I think in the spring I might start looking for a long block and put a cam in it. I like this truck to much to let it go just yet Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2023 Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 More oil changes. If you are not using Rotella T4 try it. It is a diesel oil so the detergent package is much higher but over time will clean that varnish off. Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 44 minutes ago, datzenmike said: More oil changes. If you are not using Rotella T4 try it. It is a diesel oil so the detergent package is much higher but over time will clean that varnish off. I use t4. Remember I've only put about 6000 miles on this. It had it's second oil change about 2k miles ago(first when I bought it) I'm aware it's been abused. The previous owner was a sack of dicks. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 28, 2023 Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 It takes 3 or 4 oil changes. I found the oil get dirty really fast because it's cleaning the engine. Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 I'm going to toss some seafoam in the crankcase about 100 miles before this oil change too I'm taking a 1500 mile trip in a month in it. So I'll change the oil right before it 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 28, 2023 Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 (edited) ATF in the oil works too. It may also help with the low compression. Gets in behind the rings and frees them up. Edited October 28, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: ATF in the oil works too. It may also help with the low compression. Gets in behind the rings and frees them up. I could always try the ole top end soak too 1 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 So I was chasing some wiring today and I noticed my fuse panel doesn't match the ewd for my truck. The top left fuse is a 20A and says headlights. The fuse diagram shows 10. It also shows one side as ign and one as battery but mines 2/4 Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 It looks like the upper left should say solenoid and be a 10A and basically he replaced this with a layer cover that's wrong. Cool Guess I should swap fuses. And lightly sand the bad info off Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 28, 2023 Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 I don't know what that cover if for or from. The left side fuses are powered at all times The right side is only switched on with the ignition switch '77... The headlamp fuses on all 620s are 10 amp. and should be on the left closest to the driver. Next one back is 15 amp tail lights Back one is 15 amp for horn and 4 way flasher. Front right closest the driver is to the voltage regulator Next one back is heater/wiper Back one for dash instruments. Quote Link to comment
Dusten Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: I don't know what that cover if for or from. The left side fuses are powered at all times The right side is only switched on with the ignition switch '77... The headlamp fuses on all 620s are 10 amp. and should be on the left closest to the driver. Next one back is 15 amp tail lights Back one is 15 amp for horn and 4 way flasher. Front right closest the driver is to the voltage regulator Next one back is heater/wiper Back one for dash instruments. Google 620 fuse cover. You'll see a ton of listing for this. Someone bought it and swapped it in. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 30, 2023 Report Share Posted October 30, 2023 I just did a google search for 620 Nissan fuse box cover and they all come up just like the one in the pic. Maybe overseas markets. Quote Link to comment
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