New to me 77 620

[banzai510(hainz)]

MY 510 has the vent thing on the side of the strut but its not hooked up as I run sidedrafts and I dont have that gas smell. its open

[Dusten]

Saw some advice elsewhere from @datzenmike to run Synchromesh in the 5 speed.  I've run it in several transmissions soni bought a few quarts and swapped it out.

 

Shifts are smoother.  Especially when cold.  

[Dusten]

Made an appointment on 8/15 to get my exhaust done using the earlier exhaust manifold. So I can finally swap over to the cannon intake I bought months ago.

[Dusten]

Been a while since I updated this.

 

Rebuilt the weber

New cannon intake

Older non emissions exhaust manifold

Flange off Facebook to have y-pipe built.

2" exhaust and thrush turbo muffler

 

Fixed a leaking speedo cable.  

 

Painted the air cleaner housing.

 

Trucks been knocking down 24 mpgs with the new setup.  

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

 

You didn't drill two 3/8" holes in the U67 head to make the water ports functional? Makes cool/cold weather running more efficient with a warm intake. Also the block vent and PCV needs to be functional. It doubles the engine life and extends the oil change interval by removing gas and water vapors that will contaminate the oil.

 

Otherwise this is what I did on my U67 L20B. It's since changed to R-1 motorcycle carburetors but the exhaust is basically the same. Good going. How does it sound?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Wow! 24 mpg is nothing to sneeze at.

[Dusten]

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

You didn't drill two 3/8" holes in the U67 head to make the water ports functional? Makes cool/cold weather running more efficient with a warm intake. Also the block vent and PCV needs to be functional. It doubles the engine life and extends the oil change interval by removing gas and water vapors that will contaminate the oil.

 

Otherwise this is what I did on my U67 L20B. It's since changed to R-1 motorcycle carburetors but the exhaust is basically the same. Good going. How does it sound?

 

I have never heard of drilling holes in the head.  "Warm intake". The truck has no issues running when cold.

 

I didn't disable the block pcv.  The emissions system on the truck is the way it was when I got it.  

 

It sounds fine. I like it. 

[datzenmike]

It's not cold yet. It will run better and get better mileage with coolant flowing through the intake. I see holes in the intake below the runners but I don't see the outlet for it.

 

 

Above. Block vent pipe and hose is missing. Looks plugged.

 

 

Where's the PCV valve located? Normally would be on that boss below the carburetor. I think a previous owner has been messing with this.

[Dusten]

17 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's not cold yet. It will run better and get better mileage with coolant flowing through the intake. I see holes in the intake below the runners but I don't see the outlet for it.

 

 

Above. Block vent pipe and hose is missing. Looks plugged.

 

 

Where's the PCV valve located? Normally would be on that boss below the carburetor. I think a previous owner has been messing with this.

 

 

I bought the truck when it was cold.

Also the truck won't get driven when it's below freezing.  I have winter rigs for that.  If the manners become a concern I'll look into it.  For now, it drives fine.  I also don't live where it's cold.  Dipping into the 30s isn't normal.  

 

So the circles part should have something running to the intake?

 

 

 

I doubt the previous owner did it.  Based on his wiring work, he wasn't smart enough to fuck this up.

 

All the emissions was deleted, poorly.  So I'm not surprised.  It's a major reason I went to the cannon and different exhaust manifold. 

[datzenmike]

Forget drilling the head that manifold doesn't look like it supports the coolant in the runners. The block vent looks like this...

 

 

The end of the hose goes onto the PCV valve that is mounted on the intake. It's vital to have it functional. It uses intake vacuum to draw filtered air from the air filter housing into the valve cover to replace the combustion, gasoline and water vapors in the crankcase that are sucked out. Left, they condense at night and pollute the oil.

 

Previous owners. Experts at fucking things up. Without them I'd be out of a job.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The manifolds both have the ports drilled, but I would just leave it alone. One benefit to having those ports undrilled is that they will never leak through the intake manifold gasket. ANother benefit is that when you need to remove the intake manifold, you won't need to drain the coolant.

[Dusten]

I've lost the damn grommet for the prop rod.  Not the clamp but the grommet.  What do we use as a replacement? 

[frankendat]

Not directly related to your last post, but potentially pretty cool. There is a (claims to be 77) but definitely 77,78 or 79 king cab 620 for sale on the Idaho Facebook for $750 with no title. Normally, I hate "no title" rigs, but since you have a 77 620 you could really use it for parts, no need for title. Just a thought.

[frankendat]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992815987739696

 

[Dusten]

I actually saw it. But 16+ hours round trip for a parts truck isn't gonna happen.  

[Dusten]

For it to be worth it with fuel costs and my time that truck would need at least $2500 in parts.  And I just don't see it.  

[datzenmike]

On 8/30/2023 at 9:29 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

One benefit to having those ports undrilled is that they will never leak through the intake manifold gasket. ANother benefit is that when you need to remove the intake manifold, you won't need to drain the coolant.

 

Of all the years the L series was produced '68-'80 only the '75-'77 had the dry intake, all others had coolant flow them and the intake leaking was never a problem. If you look at the coolant hole location there is about an inch of gasket all around it sealing them. Leaks are not a problem. Ease of removal is not a good enough reason for not running the coolant cooled/warmed intake. The advantages far outweigh not using it.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Right, just listing pros and cons.

 

The leaking can be an issue based on the condition of the aluminum surfaces, and the quality of the install.

[Dusten]

Pulled the Datsun back in the garage

 

The trucks showing signs the cheap fuel pump is problematic.  Erratic idle, smell of fuel.  I think it's providing more pressure than the Webber is good for.  I ordered a Carter replacement.  

I'm also having one of the drums stick.  So I'm going to pull apart all 4 brakes and inspect and adjust them.

 

I've always had an annoying shifter rattle at certain rpms.  I can stop it simply by touching the shifter. So I pulled off the cheap plastic knob the po installed and put a 460 gram knob on from billet workz.  We'll see if that helps. 

 

I just finished about 2 weeks worth of repairs and maintenance on my hdj81 so it'll take back over daily duties until I finish the 620

 

 

[datzenmike]

Shifter bushings. It will narrow the circle of error when shifting.

 

 

[Dusten]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Shifter bushings. It will narrow the circle of error when shifting.

 

 

 

That was the first thing I replaced.  

[frankendat]

On 9/11/2023 at 4:25 AM, Dusten said:

For it to be worth it with fuel costs and my time that truck would need at least $2500 in parts.  And I just don't see it.  

Is that figuring in a "cost" for your time? I don't have any stake in the truck, aside from that I would really like to have it (buying another project would lead to divorce). It runs. Fly down and drive it back for less than $2k maybe $1500 (with a little luck or more precisely with an absence of really bad luck) OR Drive down through Tumwater WA and pick up a pair of bucket seats out of a 300zx that I purchased a while back and I'll kick in $200 for gas. That lowers the price of that running 77 king cab to $550 (and he might take a little less if the ad is still up) Take all the best parts for your rig, use the others to keep the 77 from Idaho operational and sell it in Seattle for at least $1k. ***Warning this type of reasonable thinking has lead to an overflowing garage and multiple non running vehicles, engines on stands, etc for extended periods of time*** 

[frankendat]

Damn, I forgot the title issue. That's why I HATE no title rigs, even in hypotheticals it finds a way to sneak around and bite you in the ass. 

[datzenmike]

On 9/10/2023 at 10:12 PM, frankendat said:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1992815987739696

 

 

Grill is '77 or older. Definitely NOT a '79. Body parts are all the same. Engine/trans/differential all swap from '74 on.

 

Not suggesting you do this.... Take your door and engine tags and license plates with you and put on the '77 and drive it home.

[frankendat]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Grill is '77 or older. Definitely NOT a '79. Body parts are all the same. Engine/trans/differential all swap from '74 on.

 

Not suggesting you do this.... Take your door and engine tags and license plates with you and put on the '77 and drive it home.

In Idaho, for a truck this old, bill of sale is all you need to register. I came within hours of buying a truck in Portland, flying over and driving back. This was a few years back, it isn't a problem to get a temporary registration, bring the truck onto your insurance and drive it legit. But, the same day I bought the non refundable airline ticket to Portland, I am talking with the seller, who was to meet me at the airport, I'm explaining to him what documents to bring to switch ownership of the truck and he casually says, he doesn't have a title. But, he continues that the registration (plates) are good, it is still registered to the guy he bought it from in Spokane, so I should be fine driving it home. AND he cussed me for backing out of the sale.