New to me 77 620

[SWFL]

6 hours ago, Dusten said:

Is there a good source for an OEM quality coil?

 

I had good luck with the old Jacob's oil filled chrome coils. I doubt they're still made after Jacob sold out to Mr Gasket/MSD or whatever.  

[datzenmike]

If the coil is working leave it alone. There's no telling what coil was used with that damn MSG set up. Sell it and get an EI distributor and coil.

 

12 hours ago, Wildcat Walker said:

My single cab with SR20DET only weighs about 1900 lbs with a single occupant, the extra cab length and iron block really make a big difference!

 

Better check you scales. That's lighter than a 510 and close to a 1200. The L20B only weighs 285. The SR20 is over 300 the DET 330 almost.

[Dusten]

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

If the coil is working leave it alone. There's no telling what coil was used with that damn MSG set up. Sell it and get an EI distributor and coil.

 

 

Better check you scales. That's lighter than a 510 and close to a 1200. The L20B only weighs 285. The SR20 is over 300 the DET 330 almost.

 

 

It has an msd coil.  I want to get rid of it.  

 

The distributor is already ei from what I can tell.  

[datzenmike]

Well find out as the EI distributor needs the matching coil. Points coils won't work with EI.

[Dusten]

8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Well find out as the EI distributor needs the matching coil. Points coils won't work with EI.

 

 

I'm aware.  The point was just where to source an OEM style coil.

 

Rock auto has an ngk.  So I'll get that.  

[SWFL]

8 hours ago, Dusten said:

 

 

I'm aware.  The point was just where to source an OEM style coil.

 

Rock auto has an ngk.  So I'll get that.  

 

Be advised that the NGK coil Rockauto sells is made in China, or at least the one I got from them recently. It doesn't feel oil filled to me either.

 

Hitachi coils are made in Japan and are oil filled.

 

If you read Dr Jacob's book about optimizing your ignition system, you'll only want to use an oil filled coil.

 

The NGK wires Rockauto sells are made in Japan, but are only 7mm.

[datzenmike]

I get my 'stuff' from wrecking yards or never throw away parts. The 720 dual coils are the same as the earlier '78 and up EI coils.

 

Coils never fail, or fail so seldom that it's nest to never. I had a crack or carbon track on the side of the tower on my EI coil. Just went out and grabbed a 720 coil.

[Dusten]

20 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I get my 'stuff' from wrecking yards or never throw away parts. The 720 dual coils are the same as the earlier '78 and up EI coils.

 

Coils never fail, or fail so seldom that it's nest to never. I had a crack or carbon track on the side of the tower on my EI coil. Just went out and grabbed a 720 coil.

 

 

We don't have wrecking yards here with old trucks in them.  So digging for stuff like that isn't an option.

 

I know coils and such don't fail.  I've owned a fleet of classics.  My newest rig right now is an 01 and my current oldest is a 66.  But I've daily driven an 58 f100 if it helps. 

[Dusten]

1 hour ago, SWFL said:

 

Be advised that the NGK coil Rockauto sells is made in China, or at least the one I got from them recently. It doesn't feel oil filled to me either.

 

Hitachi coils are made in Japan and are oil filled.

 

If you read Dr Jacob's book about optimizing your ignition system, you'll only want to use an oil filled coil.

 

The NGK wires Rockauto sells are made in Japan, but are only 7mm.

 

 

So before i started pulling the truck apart i wanted to research the EI ignition.  I don't have a matchbox distributor on it.  Which means i need the transistor box to run the distributor and im certain the truck doesnt have on on it.  So i think for now im going to clean up the MSD and keep it in place, since its currently functional.  I will mount the box better, re-wire it all and run it until it causes issue.  The first sign of ignition problems i'll remove it.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you have the 1st Gen EI distributor you can wire a GM module in there. No ballast and use the MSD coil

 

even if you have a EI coil you can double up on the Ballast resisiter when IF running a point distributor. But you said you have a 1st gen EI distributor right?

[Dusten]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

If you have the 1st Gen EI distributor you can wire a GM module in there. No ballast and use the MSD coil

 

even if you have a EI coil you can double up on the Ballast resisiter when IF running a point distributor. But you said you have a 1st gen EI distributor right?

 

 

I'd seen a post about that.  I have some hei modules at home.  I'll grab a good coil and pull the msd after all.

 

Dizzy is a 78 from my searching here.

 

22100-B9800

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

 

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Dusten said:

 

 

So before i started pulling the truck apart i wanted to research the EI ignition.  I don't have a matchbox distributor on it.  Which means i need the transistor box to run the distributor and im certain the truck doesnt have on on it.  So i think for now im going to clean up the MSD and keep it in place, since its currently functional.  I will mount the box better, re-wire it all and run it until it causes issue.  The first sign of ignition problems i'll remove it.  

 

 

Ignore the 1.6 ohm coil. Use a 0.75 to 1.0 ohm EI coil.

 

 

[Dusten]

So my tach arrived and I decided to install it today.  Which led to me yarding all the msd stuff.

 

Ngk oil filled coil.

Gm hei modules

Ngk wires

 

Cleaned up nicely

 

 

 

 

New tach.  Small and out of the way

 

The pile of shit cobbles wires i removed.

 

 

I decided to pull the seats for better access and am glad I did.  Whichever previous owner installed the seats was a fucking asshole.  

 

This is what was holding them down.

 

 

 

I bought an L16 exhaust manifold as I plan to run a cannon intake manifold and it's not compatible with my current exhaust manifold.  This also gives me an excuse to have my exhaust guy fix the train wreck exhaust that's on it.  I'm so tired of hearing it rattle against the frame.  

 

Also looking at the plugs on the trans it's a Z car trans.  

 

I bled the clutch a bit to help with the drag issue it has.  It needs more but it's better.

 

 

 

 

[yenpit]

On 4/25/2023 at 9:10 AM, Dusten said:

 

 

So before i started pulling the truck apart i wanted to research the EI ignition.  I don't have a matchbox distributor on it.  Which means i need the transistor box to run the distributor and im certain the truck doesnt have on on it.  So i think for now im going to clean up the MSD and keep it in place, since its currently functional.  I will mount the box better, re-wire it all and run it until it causes issue.  The first sign of ignition problems i'll remove it.  

 

We run the mag pick up EI dizzy's with a GM HEI ignitor/amplifier.................easy to wire, all info online.  We also buy the original GM aluminum "heat sink" base for the HEI ignitor, to allow a little air flow to keep it cool.  You can even use the earlier 260Z DUAL mag pick up dizzy, remove one of the pick up's (keep as a spare).  The only thing you would need to mess with for a street car set up is the vac advance...........we run centrifical (no vacuum) cuz on vintage race cars with heavy cam & Weber dcoe's..............

[Dusten]

58 minutes ago, yenpit said:

 

We run the mag pick up EI dizzy's with a GM HEI ignitor/amplifier.................easy to wire, all info online.  We also buy the original GM aluminum "heat sink" base for the HEI ignitor, to allow a little air flow to keep it cool.  You can even use the earlier 260Z DUAL mag pick up dizzy, remove one of the pick up's (keep as a spare).  The only thing you would need to mess with for a street car set up is the vac advance...........we run centrifical (no vacuum) cuz on vintage race cars with heavy cam & Weber dcoe's..............

 

where do you get the heat sink base?  I have it wired it up already and its running great but that would be nice to add

[datzenmike]

The HEI is mounted inside the GM distributor so probably needs a heat sink to soak up the heat. If mounted on the fender that's a pretty big heat sink and in addition the radiator fan blows air on it. I think it's fine where and how you have it.

[Dusten]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The HEI is mounted inside the GM distributor so probably needs a heat sink to soak up the heat. If mounted on the fender that's a pretty big heat sink and in addition the radiator fan blows air on it. I think it's fine where and how you have it.

 

 

Thats fair.

 

On another note I ordered my intake manifold today.  A shop semi local to me had one in stock so the wait shouldnt be to bad.  When my exhaust manifold gets here I'll run it down to the exhaust shop i use to have him look it over along with the exhaust routing and get a quote.  Once that is done I will install the manifolds and work to get the carb dialed in.  Its got a bog when opening the secondaries and I think based on mpg's and my tail pipe shes running a little rich

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

13 hours ago, Dusten said:

 

where do you get the heat sink base?  I have it wired it up already and its running great but that would be nice to add

They're all over the internet. Just search for GM HEI module and you'll find them.

 

You'll also find original style connector housings, so if you want to ditch those individual female spade terminals and tidy things up a bit...

[yenpit]

13 hours ago, Dusten said:

 

where do you get the heat sink base?  I have it wired it up already and its running great but that would be nice to add

 

We mount on the inner fender, like you did.  Our race cars are running at top temps, especially in the midwest in the summer heat!!  I agree with Mike, a street car would likely be fine without the heat sink, but iirc it is not expensive & just a good safegaurd!  As Stoffregen mentions, they are online (my old boss would order them, so I can ask if you can't find!)

[Dusten]

I didn't know those pigtails were even a thing.  I've got a pair on order.  Thanks.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Welcome.

[Dusten]

Ordered some 3" blocks and a roll pan for the truck today

 

Pulled the dash to see why the clock doesn't work.  Install a USB charger.  And remove all the cheapo LEDs.  

[Dusten]

With the dash out I fixed a few issues 

 

My blower now turns off with the truck.

 

The blower now has 2 speeds.

 

I have a USB charging port where the cigarette lighter would be.  

 

My headlight and wiper switches now light up.  My heater controls now light up.

 

I have a new/pre-existing issue.

 

The truck had LEDs in the dash.  But they weren't dimmable and flickered when I tried to adjust the lighting.  Driving down the road the blinkers and high beam light on the dash would flicker.  

 

I replaced the bulbs with all correct bulbs.  

 

The flicker appears to be gone, but now the blinkers don't work on the dash.  So I think a solder run on the back of the cluster is shorting out.  

[Dusten]

I lied only the lh blinker wasn't working 

 

Because they ground to the cluster it was lose and not making contact.  I also had a bad solser run on the back of the board I fixed.