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New to me 77 620


Dusten

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

It's an under 410 part and up to 20 min work. Whenever I have a heating/cooling problem, which isn't often, I shoot from the hip and simply replace it. 

 

A good one from Napa is $20 plus coolant.  And I'm an aircraft mechanic i don't shoot from the hip.  

 

I also finally replaced the starter.  I installed a gear reduction unit but it doesn't want to engage every turn.  So now I get to figure that out.  

Edited by Dusten
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Pull the small start signal wire off the starter solenoid and measure the voltage in the start position. I think you'll find that it's under 9 volts. This is normal from old 20ft long thin wires multiple connections and the ignition switch. The cure is to use this voltage to switch a relay that directly connected to the battery. It's called a hot start relay.

 

My 620 did this and I threw another starter on and nothing changed. Made a hot start relay and never fails to spin the starter.

 

image.jpeg.16109f35142844729d53694818504d1d.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Pull the small start signal wire off the starter solenoid and measure the voltage in the start position. I think you'll find that it's under 9 volts. This is normal from old 20ft long thin wires multiple connections and the ignition switch. The cure is to use this voltage to switch a relay that directly connected to the battery. It's called a hot start relay.

 

My 620 did this and I threw another starter on and nothing changed. Made a hot start relay and never fails to spin the starter.

 

image.jpeg.16109f35142844729d53694818504d1d.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

It does il when I use my one man start button.  It's not a power drop.  

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It will drop if the solenoid is still connected but what does it read when disconnected? Should read battery.

 

A new starter should not hit or miss though the state of replacement starter quality these days is pretty bad.

 

What was the old starter doing that it needed replacing?

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

It will drop if the solenoid is still connected but what does it read when disconnected? Should read battery.

 

A new starter should not hit or miss though the state of replacement starter quality these days is pretty bad.

 

What was the old starter doing that it needed replacing?

 

 

What I mean is with the wire disconnected and using my starter button going from battery to the solenoid it does it.  So I know that it's not an issue of voltage drop because I'm not even using the key or factory wiring.  

 

The old start was beginning to crank slower and slower.  

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30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

 

I have a starter.  Until it's proven defective I'm not getting another.  

 

It's a unit from Napa so I don't suspect it

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7 hours ago, Dusten said:

 

 

I have a starter.  Until it's proven defective I'm not getting another.  

 

It's a unit from Napa so I don't suspect it

Next time it hangs up put the truck in gear rock the truck a little to see if it moves the flywheel a little....

Then try the starter....

 

I swear we are having 2 of the exact same issues.....

 

I have a new starter too, but I noticed during replacement a couple teeth on the flywheel ring gear looked a little questionable.... 

It gave me same issue as my older starter but spins faster.... then oddly the hang seems to have gone away lately.... 

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If it clicks and chatters or clicks and just spins but does not engage the flywheel or it takes several tries to get engagement it could be the start signal voltage is low. Could also be the solenoid and they can be swapped separately.

 

It it engages with a clunk but fails to turn the engine or turn it slowly this could also be the electrical contacts in the solenoid or the brushes are worn out or battery low, or battery cables and contacts are poor.

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Alright Mike maybe this will help visualize my issue 

 

First video is thenold starter cranking slow.  And then the new starter cranking fast but having audible issues.

 

These are both using the key

 

 

This is 2 short clips of the starter engaging and failing.  Both using my jump switch with no key and signal wire removed

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/ryFVX3vHLU8?feature=shared

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Dusten said:

Alright Mike maybe this will help visualize my issue 

 

First video is thenold starter cranking slow.  And then the new starter cranking fast but having audible issues.

 

These are both using the key

 

 

This is 2 short clips of the starter engaging and failing.  Both using my jump switch with no key and signal wire removed

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/ryFVX3vHLU8?feature=shared

 

 

 

That is not the same start issue as me.... sounds like the bendix is disengaging the flywheel and just spinning....

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11 hours ago, Dusten said:

On the bench the Bendix would randomly not shoot out.  

 

Napa has another starter on the way.  

 

 

Some starters use the spinning armature to fling the bendix out to the starter ring. The bendix on the Nissan starters is moved out to engage the flywheel by the solenoid. If not engaging, then likely the solenoid. 

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9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

NAPA has gone down the same road as the other parts stores in my opinion. cheapest made. China

 

I actually had a selinoid go bad and it was a NIssan rebuild. I couldnt belive it. got new one from Summit for the Tilton/Hitachi Superstarters

 

Box said mexico on it lol

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For the life of me I can't figure out that starter.  

 

I cleaned mine up and it spins over awesome.

 

Swap in the new starter that we teated before I brought it home and.... Nothing.  Not even a click.  

 

Swap mine back in and zoom.

 

Fuck it.  

 

Threw in a new reverse switch to hopefully stop my last trans leak.  

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The state of remanufactured alternators and starters is dismal. Just way too many are what's called 'bad in the box'. A dealer starter is a few hundred bucks so you get what you pay for. These are taken apart cleaned and some parts replaced but to make money the replaced parts are crap and beyond cheap. No wonder they are sold with free replacement. OOoo free!!! I'll have starters for life! So you're on your third starter when it dawns on you that you have paid over $200 in towing bills and once were stranded in the hood. You had to get a ride to work for the rest of the week and a trip in to order the 'free' starter and another trip in the next day to pick it up. You get to take the old one out and put the 'free' one in. Times three... you should be good at this by now.

 

Just take it back and get another. What do you expect for $60? 

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On 11/26/2023 at 5:05 PM, datzenmike said:

The state of remanufactured alternators and starters is dismal. Just way too many are what's called 'bad in the box'. A dealer starter is a few hundred bucks so you get what you pay for. These are taken apart cleaned and some parts replaced but to make money the replaced parts are crap and beyond cheap. No wonder they are sold with free replacement. OOoo free!!! I'll have starters for life! So you're on your third starter when it dawns on you that you have paid over $200 in towing bills and once were stranded in the hood. You had to get a ride to work for the rest of the week and a trip in to order the 'free' starter and another trip in the next day to pick it up. You get to take the old one out and put the 'free' one in. Times three... you should be good at this by now.

 

Just take it back and get another. What do you expect for $60? 

 

 

Well 1 it was $120 not $60

 

And 2 i threw it in the shelf.  I'm not taking it back.  To much effort.  

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Check the plenum below and in front of the windshield where the wiper linkages are. Pine needles, maple keys and small leaves get in there and can block the left and right side drains. Heavy rain can't drain and the level rises or swishes side to side driving and can over top the fresh air vent for the heater and the into the cab.

 

Another source of wetness is the windshield gasket. Can even be at the top and run around the seal and leak out at the bottom near the dash. Rust can perforate the A pillar and run down the kick panel by the doors.  

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