wayno Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I didn't have to cut anything Mike, but it is real close, within an eighth inch on both sides. I do beleave that the upper shock post/mount has to be pushed down below the top of the hat to get the spindle shaft past though. Quote Link to comment
ol' 320 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 What do you think this setup will cost? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 What do you think this setup will cost? You don't have kingpins anymore Eric, you already have everything he is trying to make. Did you get another Datsun? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I've been asked that a lot already. Best guess at this point is somewhere around $300 for the lower control arms and the spacer for the upper arms. Since I haven't gotten any of the parts done in CAD yet, I can't get a quote for the laser cutting, so it may be more. If it comes up lower, I really doubt it will come up much lower. I'm more concerned with trying to keep it from going a lot higher. I should be in the shop now. May be another vid later :) Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Looking at a 620 Ahhh, you have the datsun bug, you should have gotten vaccinated when you bought the first one. :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Ahhh, you have the datsun bug, you should have gotten vaccinated when you bought the first one. :lol: :lol: :lol: don't there is a vaccine for it Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 worked on the bump stops this morning. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Can you go a little longer with the lower arms Mike, or are you needing the lower arm/arms to be that narrow for a purpose? Are you needing a certain width from wheel mount surfaces, if you go even a half inch wider/longer with the lower arms, you will save yourself a lot of work on the upper arms, and you won't need such a big spacer behind the upper arm mount. My stock front wheels do not stick out of my fender wells, I am using a stock length 620 LCA, with lengthened upper 720 arms. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 what you did for clearing the arms looks good to me.. maybe use the torch to put some heat in the area it needs the bend. make it a bit easier.. lookin good man. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Can you go a little longer with the lower arms Mike, or are you needing the lower arm/arms to be that narrow for a purpose? Are you needing a certain width from wheel mount surfaces, if you go even a half inch wider/longer with the lower arms, you will save yourself a lot of work on the upper arms, and you won't need such a big spacer behind the upper arm mount. My stock front wheels do not stick out of my fender wells, I am using a stock length 620 LCA, with lengthened upper 720 arms. I'll find out more in the morning. When I referenced the side of the frame, it said my camber was way off, but when I referenced the cross members, it looked like it would put it back to about where I had it. If that's the case, things should be okay. I won't know until I get a chance to reset the camber. what you did for clearing the arms looks good to me.. maybe use the torch to put some heat in the area it needs the bend. make it a bit easier.. lookin good man. Thanks for the input. Yep...a torch would have definitely made it easier, but I was looking to find a way for anyone to to do it. It's much more likely that guys will have vice grips than any kind of torch. That's a big reason for trying to make this a bolt on mod instead of requiring welding. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Typical with prototyping.....2 steps forward, 1 step back.......somtimes even 3 steps back. I'm in the middle of modifying the jig to allow the hub's camber to be changed and still hold the track width really close. It's too early to make noise in the shop, so I figured I'd take care of what video I have. It will also help to keep the next vids shorter. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Here's the pics for the day. I'll splice the vids together and put them up tonight if I can stay awake....otherwise, first thing in the morning. The hinge setup on the jig seemed to work quite nicely. I'm almost back to where I was at the beginning of the week. When trying to hold the arm pieces together, I clamped a small stainless steel bar in each side. that held the valley on each side even. The metal on the bottom was to account for the plate thickness on the short side that holds the ball joint. The cuts look like there's a taper and it's because when I cut them on the band saw originally, I used two different bottom surfaces. They're not exactly straight, like the ruler on the bottom plate of the arm shows. There was actually a taper in the cuts previously too....just seems more noticeable now. I added another brace to the jig and finished the hinge setup. At the end of the day, I'm happy with the camber. The caster is at 7 deg right now, which is a bit much, but I like knowing that I can get that much. The spacers at the upper control arms can take some of that out if desired. The extra caster simply means that it will track really well out on the highway. It will add a bit of effort when driving around the parking lots, but I'm going to be running skinny tires, so it won't affect me much. Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 . Looking good Mike. I think mine was easier though. ;) . Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Only if I had your skills and shop!! LOL Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Only if I had your skills and shop!! LOL You sir have mad skills! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 :) I still want you to adopt me!! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Did a bit of work to test the shock placement. I must have adjusted the all-thread holder for the bumpstop to bumpstop travel and not the shock. Looks like I'm going to need to make a new shock mount....which actually helps with more than just the shock. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I know I don't type much for explanations to go with the pics, but that's because the vids cover those details. I apologize to the guys that can't get the vids....just ask if you want something clarified. :) ......holy cow.....I just looked at the PB album.....there's almost 400 pics in just this album.......and I didn't think I was taking many pics because I've been doing video. Considering how much more is left to do, this album may hit 1000 pics before I'm done. Ouch! http://youtu.be/AJmHd1l5qLo Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Just a short vid (6min?) to start checking out a suggestion of Wayno's. I just may have to compromise on the track width. We'll see. I may get some more time tomorrow to check into it further. Quote Link to comment
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