BEEBANI Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 so is he going to be running bag over axel then? those bars are too small to do it any other way, unless you run a 6 link and put the bags on the rear bars. Too small for what? No bag over axle bullshit for us homie! Bags are going on the lower bars. If you're saying they're not strong enough, then I would have to disagree. 1" OD x .156 wall DOM. Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 i have just seen bad things come of small lower bars with bags mounted mainly the surface area to put the mounts on, i have found bigger bars just seem to work better for me i like running square tubing. my brothers truck is a prime example.. but if they will work at least you are not going bag over axel i hate the ride once you ride bag on bars you will never go bag over axel.. just a thought what about doing a 6 link and run the bags on the back bars. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 No doubt, I have bag over bars in my truck and I love the ride. Thought about doing a 6-link, but I'm trying to keep it simple. He's running triple convoluted bags in the rear also. Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 why triples? were 2600's not enough to clear the wheels? oh and you ever thought of making a back half like that for a 620 cause i like it? Quote Link to comment
RB_Shaggs Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 oh and a interesting tid bit... My buddy put his four link on his mazda yesterday, he is building a six link so he tried something different and ran the short bars on bottom and long ones up top and voila his pinion angle never changes through the suspension stroke.. i thought it was interesting. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Yeah, I thought about it, no one has stepped up to pay me for it though. Quote Link to comment
Rusty Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 Yeah, I thought about it, no one has stepped up to pay me for it though. Save one...;) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 oh and you ever thought of making a back half like that for a 620 cause i like it? If it's the back half of a drum 620...wouldn't t simply need to be wider. The 320 frame for the NL is the same as the L except for a couple of body mounts. The 320 frame is nearly identical....as I understand it....to the 520-620(drum) frames except that it's 3" narrower. So...Bee can probably just use the same patterns.... Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 Yeah, it is virtually identical. same with the front suspension, the only difference I see is the length of the control arms. Quote Link to comment
bagged320 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 If I where you I would make the lower bars bigger, I know its .156 dom but I never run bags on anything less then 1 1/2 .095 dom, and I use 2x2 .120 wall square tubing, it will probably hold depending on where you place the bag and how much stress is on it but ive seen way to many bent link bars, besides that its looking really good, nice work Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 Rusty, Bee; That truck is looking killer! Can't wait to see it in person again. Quote Link to comment
fryanbacon Posted April 16, 2008 Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 WOW. I just looked through nine pages and I had no idea how much work goes into properly bagging and dropping (and swapping) a truck! many props for a sweeeeeet ride!:) Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Got the back half and 4-link setup done last weekend. Also attached back half to frame last week. Old x-member: New x-member: trimmed one x-member down, and had to replace the other so the frame would lay out. made some clearance for the bags The upper control arms are almost done, once I can mount them and the spindles/hubs, I will be able to make the lowers. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 damn thats looking good..... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Very nice :cool: Quote Link to comment
Bugeye Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 wow, looks great so far..keepem coming Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Got some work done on the front end this weekend. Everything is mocked up, need to make a new upper arm mount, notice I have spacers on the cross rod in the pictures. With the drop spindles it put the upper ball joint at too much of an angle. The truck will lay out, but only with weight on the front end. Once I raise the upper arm mount, the angle will be better and not bind up. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 damn damn damn, i am among greatness........how far away are you again? wheres my mapquest....... Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Damn bee.... I don't know what to say.... damn. Hell I am just happy when I turn my key and it runs, I can't imagine how you rock this stuff. You are like a rocket scientist to me. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Nice. Are you going to beef up those lower A-arm mounts? Weird to see those on a Datto truck chassis :D Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 2eDeYe;55427']Nice. Are you going to beef up those lower A-arm mounts? Weird to see those on a Datto truck chassis :D Beef up? What, 1/4" plate and 7/8" cold rolled shaft isn't strong enough? Maybe a couple of gussets, but I've studied many different chassis manufacturers, i.e. Scott's Hod Rods and others; and they basically have the same lower mounts. They're pretty stout Steve. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Cool, hard to tell sizing from pic's ;) I only ask so I can steal all your ideas :D Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Is there a reason that the upper control arm pivot it bolted on instead of welded? Is it to give it more adjustablity than just having the heim joints on the control arm? I'm just wondering cause with it bolted on it just seems like another thing that could loosen up. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Is there a reason that the upper control arm pivot it bolted on instead of welded? Is it to give it more adjustablity than just having the heim joints on the control arm? I'm just wondering cause with it bolted on it just seems like another thing that could loosen up. Because it bolts on originally, didn't see a need to change it. The upper arms generally see little load against them. Quote Link to comment
Rusty Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 It's bad ass! Quote Link to comment
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