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64 NL


320 Newb

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I bought this NL about six months ago and finally have it running and driving. It sat in a metal building in Las Vegas for about 30 years so I had to go through everything. I'm going to be doing more of a preservation than restoration. It's very complete and very unmolested. There's brackets and clips on this sucker I never knew existed. 

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Kudos to you, Newb, that pickup is too nice a survivor to restore. They're only original once !! 

 

Is paint original or an old repaint ?

Edited by difrangia
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4 hours ago, difrangia said:

Kudos to you, Newb, that pickup is too nice a survivor to restore. They're only original once !! 

 

Is paint original or an old repaint ?

 

Looks like a combination of original and some old light respray. Interior and undercarriage is completely unmolested. Still has the original exhaust. 

 

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That’s a great truck man. So clean! 🤩Keep those pictures coming. 

 

I’m glad you got yourself an NL. I know you’ve been wanting one for a while, and now you’ll stop telling me you want buy mine. 

Edited by HOGIE
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Black is probably the least common original color.

 

Jared & Newb, U guys have a couple of nice survivor 'Sport Trucks'. They don't move very fast, but that gives everyone more time to eyeball & enjoy em. I can't think of another pickup, any make, model, or year, that I'd rather be seen in !! A short 'Big Window' 61-63 Ford Unibody would run a close second for me. 

 

Keep On Truckin.....

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On 5/22/2022 at 8:45 AM, 320 Newb said:

 

Looks like a combination of original and some old light respray. Interior and undercarriage is completely unmolested. Still has the original exhaust. 

 

Cheap re-spray jobs are the worst. I bet the original paint was fine, but maybe showing some wear when they decided to shoot it. My Sprite road car is the same. Original paint under quickie job and it looks like crap. I've thought about wet sanding the newer coat off. Is yours in good enough shape to try that?

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49 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Cheap re-spray jobs are the worst. I bet the original paint was fine, but maybe showing some wear when they decided to shoot it. My Sprite road car is the same. Original paint under quickie job and it looks like crap. I've thought about wet sanding the newer coat off. Is yours in good enough shape to try that?

That's my plan. Paintless dent repair on a few spots then a cut and buff. The new paint def isn't everywhere. 

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Lucky & smart man U are, Moses. That is an absolute jewel; , closest you'll get to a 'Time-Machine', do preserve it while making reversible updates to enhance safety & usability !! It's a carbon-copy of ours and Virgil's in Sperry OK.

 

Edited by difrangia
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I'm going after a bunch of rubber bits on the NL. I've got a 10' section of NOS 320 door seals--see profile below. I'm replacing it with these aftermarket seals purchased on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJRHLDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

The goal is to use a product with similar dimensions that works without modifying the scruff plates. 

 

 

I also bought a set of rubber bumpers off Amazon. The bigger ones work on the door jams, the second biggest ones on the radiator support. The bullet shaped ones are a waste. They're too small: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PY2BSCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The channel run felt for the side glass below works well. Fits the 320 channels and holds the glass snug. You'll new two sections, one for each window:

https://www.carid.com/fairchild/flexible-flocked-rubber-glass-run-window-channel-mpn-0452-8.html?singleid=3378187573&vehicle=111249&utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_notification_mail

 

Finally, wiper blade replacements: Anco 20-11 blades are a slam dunk. 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by 320 Newb
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3 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

I'm going after a bunch of rubber bits on the NL. I've got a 10' section of NOS 320 door seals--see profile below. I'm replacing it with these aftermarket seals purchased on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJRHLDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

The goal is to use a product with similar dimensions that works without modifying the scruff plates. 

 

I used something like this door seal above, but it had a 1/2" round part and did not touch the door all the way around, this one you are using might work.

 

3 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

 

 

I also bought a set of rubber bumpers off Amazon. The bigger ones work on the door jams, the second biggest ones on the radiator support. The bullet shaped ones are a waste. They're too small: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PY2BSCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The channel run felt for the side glass below works well. Fits the 320 channels and holds the glass snug. You'll new two sections, one for each window:

https://www.carid.com/fairchild/flexible-flocked-rubber-glass-run-window-channel-mpn-0452-8.html?singleid=3378187573&vehicle=111249&utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_notification_mail

 

I use the Datsun Roadster channel felt for a couple reasons, first it does not need to be glued in, when the window is rolled down the gap closes and this makes me believe that when it is rolled up the seal is a good one, it is way more expensive than what you are using though.

 

3 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

Finally, wiper blade replacements: Anco 20-11 blades are a slam dunk. 

 

This is excellent wiper blade information

 

3 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

 

 

 

 

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Just an update on this door seal... The bulb size is perfect and provides a nice snug seal all the way around but the part that slips over flange is a little too small. I made it work but if I was going to buy another product I'd want something 1/2" tall and 1/8" wide. There are a couple areas where the sheet metal doubles or triples up on the seam and it was hard to force the trim to seat on the edge. 

 

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7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Rubber mallet is used to smash that edge moulding in place.

I was able to rubber mallet about 90% into place and it looks fine, but it disfigured a little and doesn't seat as nice as I'd like it to by door striker. Not sure yet if I'll live with it or pull it out. The good part about it is it works with the scruff plates without modification and seals up the door perfectly. I'd give it a B. But I'm also neurotic. 

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I have a question for you, I do not recall if your 320s are wired negative or positive ground, if you have a negative ground have you got your stock temp gauge to work properly?

 

I asked this here because everyone reads your thread and if someone has could you tell me how you did it, I cannot get it to work on my U320 and I tried 2 different senders/sensors, I found a 3rd one from a later engine that I thought was going to work but not sure now, it is hard to tell when one puts the sender/sensor in the radiator coolant using the radiator cap hole wired properly, I tried the 521 sender/sensor also and it did not work, my gauge sits on "H" when the key is off, but when the key is on it slowly moves to the "C", this is how it works on my positive ground truck and it works properly when warmed up and slowly moves to the middle, my NL320(negative ground) has an aftermarket gauge that Mike installed, I had an aftermarket gauge in my parts stash but it does not have the correct adapter, I can likely find an adapter but I would rather have the stock gauge to work if possible, my gas gauges work fine positive or negative ground.

Edited by wayno
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On 6/5/2022 at 10:39 PM, wayno said:

I have a question for you, I do not recall if your 320s are wired negative or positive ground, if you have a negative ground have you got your stock temp gauge to work properly?

 

I asked this here because everyone reads your thread and if someone has could you tell me how you did it, I cannot get it to work on my U320 and I tried 2 different senders/sensors, I found a 3rd one from a later engine that I thought was going to work but not sure now, it is hard to tell when one puts the sender/sensor in the radiator coolant using the radiator cap hole wired properly, I tried the 521 sender/sensor also and it did not work, my gauge sits on "H" when the key is off, but when the key is on it slowly moves to the "C", this is how it works on my positive ground truck and it works properly when warmed up and slowly moves to the middle, my NL320(negative ground) has an aftermarket gauge that Mike installed, I had an aftermarket gauge in my parts stash but it does not have the correct adapter, I can likely find an adapter but I would rather have the stock gauge to work if possible, my gas gauges work fine positive or negative ground.

 

My green 62 in neg ground and my 64NL is positive ground. The gauges work on both with the factory temp sending units.

 

Sadly, only  the factory E1 temp sending unit will work with the gauge and they're hard to find. From everyone I've talked to and everything I've read, later model units and aftermarket units don't work. I have a spare I might be willing to sell or trade.

 

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