Stupid_fast Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Was marked .490. Regrind. Oldschool tuner gave it to me and told me to put it in. Did not question. Needs lash pads and valve springs too. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 I found a awesome method to tune the R1 carbs. 1 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Was marked .490 and 281. Regrind. Oldschool tuner gave it to me and told me to put it in. Did not question. Needs lash pads and valve springs too. Hmmmmm....you're going to wear out the cam and or pretty quick. At '.490' (?) lift the stock springs are real close to binding Top end of engine will also make more noise if the wipe pattern is not centered on rocker.... Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 @Sealik, you missed the part where I said "Needs lash pads and valve springs too.". Stock springs floated around 6600rpm-7300rpm depending on how good they felt that day. Lash pads and wipe pattern were set when I installed the cam. Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 I'll just leave this here: :devil: The Stock KA24DE intake cut properly lines up surprisingly well with the R1 intake pattern. (the leftover intake piece below the carbs is only to prop the carbs up and check alignment) I'm waiting till I drop the engine in my dime before I Tig up the final manifold in order to make sure I clear the hood! I finished up modding the oil pan last week (I will be posting that soon) & I'm pulling my engine next week so updates should be increasing as this is going in my daily driver and it needs to be back on the road ASAP! On a side note: any of you R1 guys have any extra intake boots? I want to use the stock boots as they have a nice ridge to hold onto the carb outlets and I will be lathing my intake runners to have the same ridge. I'm also looking for a single R1 piston dome cap as one of mine has a slight crack in it. I have plenty of other R1 parts & Datsun parts to trade hopefully for your spare parts :) Please PM me if you have any extra dome caps! Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Got my manifold from Bogg Bros this morning and it is absolutely gorgeous. If you guys are wondering what your $400 gets you, check out my crappy pictures. Anyone stateside make these? Only bogg bros I could find were UK. Looking at the possibility of this setup on my A15 and I already have a cad file for the flange. Just need someone who can do the runners and cut the flange Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Bogg Bros is in the UK, they're reputable shop the only con is the $100 shipping, but you get your part in under 4 days when they ship it. I found something interesting about the float bowl settings on a bike forum... This is a slip you get with a rejet kit for the R1 bike. According to this the float level can go as low as 11mm (from gasket surface to bottom of float) for a heavily ported/tuned motor. I'm going to play around with it a bit tonight and see if I can get some results. http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=387913&d=1252600835 1 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Actually $100 isn't anywhere near as high as I had imagined. Guess I've been looking at too many Aussie parts. Shipping was $250 for my grill o.O Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Don't hold them to it because they've never done an A series manifold (to my knowledge) but both the manifolds I've gotten from them where about $365 shipped. Good luck finding someone in the US to make one for cheaper. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted November 1, 2013 Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 Honestly thats not too bad. The one single DCOE mani I found was 265 shipped and luckily ggzilla saved me there by letting me know that a single 40mm DCOE doesn't have much room to grow over a 32/36 weber. R1s are cheaper to purchase and seem to be easy enough to service and tune. I had planned on dual DCOEs after speaking with ggzilla, so ~$400 for the manifold is very similar to what a dual DCOE mani with throttle towers costs. Then add two new DCOEs and you are talking ~$1200 for mani, carbs, and rejetting. R1s should hopefully get me running for a bit less :P Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted November 1, 2013 Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 Its really a great price for the quality they offer. And they can do anything else you need as well, extra ports for pulling vacuum, ect. Just be careful with budgeting it out, I ended up spending just as much or more as getting DCOE's after the tuning parts and accesories. The parts add up quickly. Also a quick tip for the carbs ... If you pull the carbs or touch them at all recheck the sync! My carbs have been running rough for a while I had no idea why because I synced them perfectly a month or so before. I did pull the manifolds to reach the transmission bolts a few weeks ago but didn't touch anything on the carbs. I finally checked the balance last night and they were way off! 3&4 were pulling quite a bit more air. Its just a good habit to check the sync regularly, if you notice the motor running rough or just as general maintenance like valve adjustments. You'll get very big pops at cruising speed if the sync is off, too. Also set each idle mixture screw by ear for best results. Carbs can be finicky, mix screws at the same turns out may not be the optimal setting. Turn in until you hear RPM drop, then back off slowly until smoothest idle is achieved. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted November 2, 2013 Report Share Posted November 2, 2013 This isn't insomniacs. Go home DAT510, you're drunk. Quote Link to comment
Tom1200 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 I stumbled on this so I will post my info: Since 2010 I've been running 39mm Keihin FCR flat slide carbs on my A12 powered 1200 coupe. I bought the complete set up carbs custom manifold and some jets for $250 plus another $100 on additional jets and $100 for an hour of Dyno time. For tuning hints got to factorypro.com and read the tuning guide. This site will save you a lot of grief. The only part I had to have made was a throttle cable. Fot those that are non-motorcycle people, bike shops have been making custom cables forever so it is very common. Anyone who tells you that these carbs have flat spots or suffer from bogging by design or you have to drive them differently doesn't know how to tune them..........period. If you have a cam with huge overlap then yes the bottom end will suffer but that has nothing to do with the carbs. In general the carbs flow more than the same size DCOE type. As a comparison I'll share some known power figures. Datsun 1200 SSS (New Zealand dealer model) which used 40 mm DCOE carbs and 270 degree cam which made 55 whp versus my A12GX motor with ports cleaned up aforementioned 39mm flat slides made 73 whp. Now the numbers may sound underwhelming but the stock A12 made 40 whp. On my motor adding a 286 duration .460 lift cam raised the output to just over 80 whp. Based on my experience the bike carbs are an advantage. Nothing wrong with DCOE carbs, they are very good I just think the bike carbs especially the FCRs are better. One final advantage for the down draft style bike carbs, on left hand drive cars there isn't the issue of clearing the brake master cylinder that the DCOE carbs have. Tom 1 Quote Link to comment
Tom1200 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Oops I forgot to mention my coupe is a road race car , although with the GX cam it would be very street able. Tom Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 @Tom1200, Good info, thanks for sharing ! I'd love to see some of your 1200 build! 80hp out of an A12 sounds amazing. FROM mentioned factory pro tuning info; Guys that are setting your needle jets way high to get rid of popping at cruise ... you have your carbs tuned wrong. My popping went away with a good sync and idle tune! To properly tune, you MUST: 1. Have selected the BEST main jet for full throttle power (not just a "good" main jet - we mean "the BEST main jet" for power at high rpm). That eliminates the common severe tweaking of the midrange and lower tuning ranges to compensate for a "wrong" main jet. 2. Then - select the BEST needle height / clip position for power at FULL THROTTLE / MIDRANGE after selecting the BEST main jet - That almost eliminates weird problems at cruise caused by tweaked needle heights that were required because the main jet wasn't correct....... 3. Then, adjust the BEST Float Height for BEST FULL THROTTLE / LOW rpm (many Honda's excluded because floats are not adjustable) - You should be able to apply FULL THROTTLE at LOW RPM in TOP gear without ANY misfire of bogging or stumble....... If you follow that order, you will have: 1. Best topend. 2. Best midrange. 3. Best low rpm power. Then - all you have left is dialing in the pilot circuit - i.e. mixture screw and pilot jet size - That's IT - Don't tweak needle heights and throw away full throttle midrange to try to fix a cruise issue (Unless you want to) Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 I'll just leave this here: :devil: The Stock KA24DE intake cut properly lines up surprisingly well with the R1 intake pattern. (the leftover intake piece below the carbs is only to prop the carbs up and check alignment) I'm waiting till I drop the engine in my dime before I Tig up the final manifold in order to make sure I clear the hood! I finished up modding the oil pan last week (I will be posting that soon) & I'm pulling my engine next week so updates should be increasing as this is going in my daily driver and it needs to be back on the road ASAP! On a side note: any of you R1 guys have any extra intake boots? I want to use the stock boots as they have a nice ridge to hold onto the carb outlets and I will be lathing my intake runners to have the same ridge. I'm also looking for a single R1 piston dome cap as one of mine has a slight crack in it. I have plenty of other R1 parts & Datsun parts to trade hopefully for your spare parts :) Please PM me if you have any extra dome caps Hurry up. Do want running video. 1 Quote Link to comment
07FlyingWagon Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hurry up. Do want running video. ^^^ +1,000,000,000 ;) Quote Link to comment
07FlyingWagon Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 I found a awesome method to tune the R1 carbs. And the Darwin award goes to.... lol Quote Link to comment
DADZSUN Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 For those of you with the KA24e swap, how did you handle the two circled areas in the pic? I don't believe they're required for the carb setup but wanted to make sure before making a cap for it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
LoserMachine Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Has anyone used xs1100 carbs or YZF 750 carbs? i have acess to these two carbs for dirt cheep but i dont know which one to chose. i cany find info on any of them. any info will help thanks. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Dropped the floats to 9mm (measured from gasket surface to lowest point). I can pull away from 2k full throttle its still rich but doesn't sputter and bog anymore. Still a bit of low end bog getting under 3k drifting, I think I'm going to take the floats to 10mm and it should be good. For those with these carbs who have popping at cruise, your carbs aren't synced perfectly and/or your idle tune is off (too lean). The only time I get popping is running on the freeway at night because my motor is getting overcooled. Just run with the choke on and it doesn't pop anymore. For those who have popping in deceleration, your idle tune is off. (too rich!) I have almost no decel popping after some careful idle tuning by ear. Can engine brake from 3k-2k in 4th gear and maybe get one or two small pop out the exhaust vs popping the whole time before. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 rich popping is/sounds sooo cool though ...as long as its not killing the F out of your gas mileage :) 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Or on the verge of blowing up your muffler lol Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Bah who needs a muffler. Straight pipe it :P Quote Link to comment
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