R1 Carbs (lots of pics)

[VintageRice]

Honestly I think the hanging is the cable not releasing all the way or the couplers rubbing. Cause it's a new issue and I can reach in and push the throttle closed and it slows down. Just hangs a hair.

 

Question on 510 Gas tank. Can u get it out without pulling the back seat?? I've never taken one out. But I DO need to gravel that sucker.

[DADZSUN]

You need to pull the backrest out and the boarding behind it. From there you can access a couple of the bolts as well as the fuel and vent lines.

[datzenmike]

I discovered that I can run the 240sx flywheel/clutch on my D21 KA24e so long as I run a 240sx starter as well. There are WAY more cheaper lightweigh flywheel (225mm) options for the 240sx than on the truck (240mm). I will be trying to make the rear sump D21 oil pan work instead of flipping the cross member.

 

Not saying this won't work but the 240sx block is much different than the D21. For one, the 240sx starter bolts are through a (1/2"?) ring that is part of the block. At least one fastener comes through from the transmission side and the starter is held on with a nut. Most others use bolts into the transmission case.

 

My 240sx KA-E block. Starter is spaced to the front by about 1/2" and will sit 1/2" further into the D-21 transmission mission the flywheel starter ring.

 

D-21 block on right, no ring...

[DADZSUN]

Thanks for the heads up Mike. I was aware D21 starter threads into the tranny whereas the 240sx threads through the tranny.

 

Honestly, I'm not quite sure why a 240sx starter is required - I just read that on another forum from a user running that setup. I'm going to first try the D21 starter, perhaps with a 1/2" spacer to see if it can mate to the flywheel properly. Otherwise, I'll simply order a refurbed 240sx starter.

 

A bigger issue which I recently discovered is which rear sump KA24e oil pan to run? I didn't realise that there was a difference between the 2WD and 4WD pans, with the 4WD being pinched in the rear and MUCH deeper compared to the 2WD which is almost a reversed copy of te 240sx. See pictures of the difference on this thread (near the bottom): http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/displayForumTopic/content/286003431025627796

 

This may all seem OT, but I can guarantee that a high level of the swap info and a detailed summary of the R1 info will be posted on this thread for others to benefit.

[slingshot532]

Rice,

 

when I come to a stoplight the idle is sometimes slightly high. I can drop it down by blipping the throttle. No idea why. I think the motorcycle throttle has 2 cables so you can pull the throttle closed. It seems the spring is not as strong as a car thorttle body would be. I tried adding another spring to pull it closed, it worked but I took it off because it made the pedal hard to push(and it was hooked up way ghetto(not that the whole car isn't :rofl: )).

[datzenmike]

Thanks for the heads up Mike. I was aware D21 starter threads into the tranny whereas the 240sx threads through the tranny.

 

Honestly, I'm not quite sure why a 240sx starter is required - I just read that on another forum from a user running that setup. I'm going to first try the D21 starter, perhaps with a 1/2" spacer to see if it can mate to the flywheel properly. Otherwise, I'll simply order a refurbed 240sx starter.

 

A bigger issue which I recently discovered is which rear sump KA24e oil pan to run? I didn't realise that there was a difference between the 2WD and 4WD pans, with the 4WD being pinched in the rear and MUCH deeper compared to the 2WD which is almost a reversed copy of te 240sx. See pictures of the difference on this thread (near the bottom): http://www.nissan4wh...003431025627796

 

This may all seem OT, but I can guarantee that a high level of the swap info and a detailed summary of the R1 info will be posted on this thread for others to benefit.

 

Maybe there is a difference in the flywheel starter ring, but I don't think so.

 

 

 

 

My KA pans. 240sx top and D-21 bottom

 

 

 

[Logical1]

How dare you sully my bible with this talk of starters and oil pans! :frantics:

 

:lol:

[spudly13]

Here ill try and help get back on topic! l20b, r1 carbs, and a bigger turbo then i had on the l16!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

How you increasing fuel pressure as the boost goes up?

[spudly13]

currently im not, or at least didnt on the l16, i have an electric pump and a boost sensiive fpr i should install, just trying to make it all work first, i could go through 4 gears full pul/boost before i hit fuel cutout on the l16

[pl521sss]

oh my

Just remembered I have the original setup

It's time to install it

[spudly13]

Lets say i go out for a drive, car gets fully heated up and ill just say 15 minutes. You then stop, turn off the car, 75% chance it will let off a loud bang, and if you start it again shortly there after no problems. now lets say i stop, turn off, bang, go into the store for say 10 minutes, come back out.... cranking and cranking and cranking and cranking until finally it coughs and sputters and i have to feather the gas and oh fires up with a big grey/black smoke cloud...

 

I believe gas is leaking down into the cylinders for whatever reason after it gets shut off and is flooding it, what would cause this?

 

Any other thoughts??

 

According to my wideband im not rich at an idle, if anything im a bit lean on idle and on downshift/decel.

[VintageRice]

Floats not sealing and pouring fuel into clys? But y now and y not before? You havent monkeyd with the carbs right?

[jesusno2]

idle will hang from unbalanced carbs

[spudly13]

Floats not sealing and pouring fuel into clys? But y now and y not before? You havent monkeyd with the carbs right?

 

It started happening more and more frequently towards the end of the l16s life....

 

ill have to grab a air flow meter and check the balance

[jesusno2]

you need to have a multi Carb sync tool these is no other way to do it accurately enough and its very sensitive one change to one Carb will affect another it take a while to get them balanced.

[datzenmike]

Just a theory... what if 3 of the 4 carbs are almost shut and one carb is doing most of the work to keep idling? In other words it's open way more than it should be, and you shut it off. The extra gas and air from this one carb flows though the cylinder (ignition off) and explodes in the hot exhaust pipe

 

What happens if you idle for 10 seconds then shut off?

What if you apply brake and shift into 4th and ride the clutch as you turn ignition off? Causing a quick stall.

[72240z]

Doesnt sound like a sync problem to me.

 

It def sounds like you have excess fuel in the cylinders. Why could be a bunch of things. This is a common issue on some bike carbs though however. On a bike Its caused by a leaking pet cock AND float but since you dont have a pet cock the float is likely the issue. Be really careful not to hydrolock your motor, if the leak gets bad and fill the cylinder with fuel while sitting its possible.

 

Check the floats/needles/orings..... should be a cheap fix

[VintageRice]

Yep. We had a DR350 dirt bike that the peacock leaked. Filled all the oil in the motor with gas

 

Drain your oil and see if it smells like gas.

[spudly13]

Just a theory... what if 3 of the 4 carbs are almost shut and one carb is doing most of the work to keep idling? In other words it's open way more than it should be, and you shut it off. The extra gas and air from this one carb flows though the cylinder (ignition off) and explodes in the hot exhaust pipe

 

What happens if you idle for 10 seconds then shut off?

What if you apply brake and shift into 4th and ride the clutch as you turn ignition off? Causing a quick stall.

 

If i cause a quick stall, it wont bang, i dont know about start back up, and if its warm and i kill it, bang, start,

kill it generally bang.

 

Doesnt sound like a sync problem to me.

 

It def sounds like you have excess fuel in the cylinders. Why could be a bunch of things. This is a common issue on some bike carbs though however. On a bike Its caused by a leaking pet cock AND float but since you dont have a pet cock the float is likely the issue. Be really careful not to hydrolock your motor, if the leak gets bad and fill the cylinder with fuel while sitting its possible.

 

Check the floats/needles/orings..... should be a cheap fix

 

Alright, its easy enough to pull the carbs off, ill check into that stuff tomorrow, imo the bang and the no starting is definately 100% excess fuel, and the two are most likely related

[spudly13]

Yep. We had a DR350 dirt bike that the peacock leaked. Filled all the oil in the motor with gas

 

Drain your oil and see if it smells like gas.

 

New oil with the new motor, hopefully it hasnt gotten that bad just yet, ill drain a little and smell it, or just pull the valve cover and smell it

[INDY510]

What happens if you idle for 10 seconds then shut off?

 

Like a Turbo-Timer??? ...... . maybe try 3-4mins not 10 seconds

[datzenmike]

May be running rich but at idle he says:

 

According to my wideband im not rich at an idle, if anything im a bit lean on idle and on downshift/decel.

 

This why I suggested idling for 10 before shut off to 'dry' it out.

 

 

 

Not a fix, but brake on in gear let the clutch out as you turn it off will solve the backfire.

[VintageRice]

Well, progress today. Figured some stuff out. I finally got time to build my leak tool. Tested the intake runners and I have leaks in all of them. I was amazed.

 

The number 2 and 3 had big holes in the bottom welds. Like BIG. Sad.

 

Number one and two had tiny tiny bubbles sneaking out at 25 psi. But the 2 and 3 felt like a blow off tool. yikes..........

 

 

So I'll pull the intake and fix. The cheap, lazy and want to hurry up side of me says smear some jb weld on the seams and get-r-dun..........but the smart side of me is scared some of that could break off inside the runners after lots of heat cycles and suck into the cyl......that could be bad.

 

 

So might just take it down to my tig welding buddy and have him re weld the seams. Hopefully that will seal it up.

 

 

Any other ideas for a good seal?

 

Pics of my tester. Just simple. 1 1/4 " PVC scedule 40 with a cap, schrader valve and a gauge.

 

 

Was also hoping to test the valves at the same time but the air pressure just compresses the springs and lets it blow by the valves. I think..........either that or all my intake valves are shot cause the pressure just blows on by.

[spudly13]

Well those leaks could most definately explain why you cant get it tuned in right!

 

Edit, i might have to build one of those thingys and check mine for the hell of it!