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R1 Carbs (lots of pics)


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Vintage, use some needle nose pliers and pull the cream colored plastic deal in the middle of the diaphragm out, under that there will be a small spring, then use the needle nose to pull the needle out.

 

Ok, so it just snaps in or is held by tention. I just didn't want to break them. Never know, somethings need to twist, others screw, others just yank harder. (dirty minds stay away)

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i know its a very rough sketch, and im sure somewhere on the internet this has been asked before i just cant find it. In my opinion it would work, meybe not the most efficient but im not trying to build an insane motor here.

 

Basically, will the boost flow like that, or would the number one cylinder be getting more air then number 4? (this is what ive been argueing with people about) i personally think that pressure is pressure and if the area has 10 pounds in it and each cylinder draws its intake at different times, then in my head id would all get the same air. but im no rocket scientist.

 

 

 

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like i said i couldnt find any info on the subject, and my only argument would be, why does it work on a dodge cummins motor? those motors are almost three feet long and the intake is right in between the number one and two cylinder with 4 more cylinders behind that.....

 

 

note to anyone who hasnt seen one of these, the motor goes back into the tunnel a ways

 

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I mean it will work, maybe, but its not optimum.

 

There has been a lot of research over on hybrid Z about this.

 

I dont think cummins cares when that motor rarely sees over 3k rpm. Diesels are different

 

Biggest thing I would be worried about, is certain cylinders running lean.

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Here is a little update on my Honderp, took this picture at 5:30 this morning hoping to have it running this week if not sooner.

 

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Also a picture of the header I built out of my old VW J-tubes off a 1600 dp. :D before anyone says anything about headers, I couldn't use the stock manifold with bike carbs because it was literally pumpkin sized and had a hole in the top to meet up to the stock intake, and since nobody makes headers for these anymore I had to make it myself. (yes it has a 2 port exhaust head with exhaust liners, I don't expect much more then the stock 65hp on this beast but it sure sounds nice)

 

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More pics of this car. I worked at a honda shop where they cut two intake manifolds, and welded them dack together so they could put two carbs on. It was painted orange and we called it the "General Li".I don't think it was a cvcc, and if I recall it had a 4 to 1 header.

 

I am interested to see how this set up works. The cvcc motors are a little different, the carbs have a third barrel that is way rich and fills a little cup around the sparkplug. The rest of the mix is way lean and the mix around the plug is used to ignite the rest of the fuel.

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Yup that is basically how cvcc works, the 1200 models had a crossflow head and 4 exhaust ports, also the later then 76 heads had 4 port exhausts as well just non crossflow. The 1200cc can make lots of power and is a cool little engine. I had the carbs on the motor already and the way the CVCC is set up in the manifold is there are small pinky sized ports for the CVCC valves, all I did was cross drill from the 4 main ports into the CVCC ports and I didn't have any problems, I would have liked to get a Canadian Non CVCC head but life doesn't always work that way, Maybe someday. Here is a picture of mine.

 

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Sorry for the Honduh thread jack haha, My intake is getting welded up hopefully tomorrow or the next day, waiting to hear back, maybe I'll make a video once I get it running, I always tried to convince my buddy while he had his built L20b in his 510 wagon to put some motorcycle carbs on but he pussed out and sold the car, plus he owns a fox-body as well and doesn't believe in ITB's like I do, I'm always preaching to my friends on ITB's and ITC's "oh you should put bike carbs or build ITB's for that yadda yadda"

 

The video is awesome but I want to hear some sweet intake sound yo.

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Yeah, stock idle jets, 4 turns out. Was at 3.5 turns but richened it up some. U scared me into it........lol

 

Mains drilled to aprox 2mm. I used a 5/64th drill bit which is 1.9844mm So with a little wiggle room probably came out around 2mm. Close enough. I did a 1-2 gear WOT pull in the video then shu tthe motor off and rolled to a stop to read the plugs. (ive read this is the way to do it) Plugs looked nice and dark brown. On the rich side I'd say. Sure with aI had a wide band to check it through the entire RPM range but O well. Hot rodders ran carbs for half a century without fancy gauges and computers to tell'em their runnin rich or lean. Why should we!!

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